Thanks, guys, for bearing with my interminable 'adventures' in detailing this modest bike.
This afternoon I've been fishing and pulling the power wires. Meanwhile, the pack remains in the oven,
baking/curing its thick (yet easily removed) waterproofing coat of PVC-E material. When it's fully cured,
all the white will have turned clear.
Now, the eZee controller, as supplied, is a supposedly sealed box containing a modest but robust 20A controller board,
with a plethora of quick connect lead outs from its bottom, all "sealed" with black butyl rubber caulk. No way this system is truly sealed, because water WILL get into it in time, if the bike is soaked: green would grow inside and the controller would malfunction.
Why, there are even four, open screw holes in the back plate for proprietary mounting on eZee brand bikes: if we don't seal those, at least: it's a perfect ingress for water to flood into the box, but not be able to get out.
My concept was and is to epoxy-pour (like a bar top) the controller board itself, only. And the box? Fully open at the bottom
and at its sides, allowing full ventilation, both for air-rush-through cooling whilst riding, and for drying out when wetted.
This controller will work underwater without the least trouble.
Today: pull the two power wires up the seat post tube. Holes have to be made.
At the top of the seat tube, but below the point where the Thudbuster post stops, two exit holes are made.
One exit hole is for the red wire, to feed right into the kill switch. That wire will continue out from the other side of the kill switch.
In the photos you see the hole-making operations, and pulling the wires, and disguising the bright red plus wire at its exit point
with a couple of inches of black heat shrink.
These holes all will be "grommeted " with PVC caulk later, so that no water can ever enter the seat post tube;
this caulking stuff is adhering, yet easily removed when and if the need arises.
This set of images is more or less self explanatory if you have read the description above.
The rack is now leveled, secured, ready for the battery pack to install (when it's finished baking its coating),
then a simple connection to the kill switch and installation of the trailer-type charger plug, all under the basket out of normal sight.
The wire run from basket to seat tube will be more or less invisible to the casual eye.
And then string-tie that pack securely to the basket, and decide how or if to cover it with cloth or nylon cloth for neat appearance.
Images of an hour ago:
More notes: the fabric glue stuff does two things: seals and prevents screws from backing out of their own accord:
the case, you see, is only clamped partially closed; note the air gap? That's for water drainage and for ventilation.
The smears of PVC-E glue hold the screws from working out, yet they are removable by a screwdriver, and the smears
of glue in the corners of the box gaps set and maintain an even, small gap.
Lots of grinding dust and dirt and scuffed paint. I will repaint the bike someday in Krylon Fusion Yellow, a super nice bright yellow,
nothing fancy: I think I'll just strip down the bike of the battery rack, fenders, wheels and fork and wet sand and otherwise prep,
and go to work with the spray can.
Such a paint, if sprayed in low humidity and at 75F, lays out very smooth and glossy.
But this is a working bike, not a piece of the painter's art: I just want it to be drivable and also a beater,
and not cry if I lay it down: I can retouch scrapes and scratches with a small brush: yellow is an easy color to retouch,
unlike fancy clearcoat candy or metallic or pearl paint jobs.
Yellow with satin black Planet bike fenders....someday...it will look good and so that's about the end of the story for today.
Tomorrow afternoon: in with the pack, lace it tight, hook up the connecting wires, and maybe wrap and tuck the front fork cable,
and mount Justin's LED light to the Cycle Analyst, and call it a done deal