Nogwin wrote:I just checked the controller and the key switch is at the horizontal position pointing to red mark.
When I was getting the phase wiring figured out several months ago, the combo I posted was the only one to work smooth. Others made a crazy noise and amp load was 10+A at a few mph. So the wiring I have and the key switch in that position works well. There's absolutely nothing but smooth motor accel all the way to wide open throttle. No unusual vibrations or anything like that.
I hope this helps
btw - I should mention the 66v is really good for commuting and I get good acceleration thru 30mph. At 48v I was just at 20-21mph, and needed more for safer travels. I really hope your gears survive. Also plan to pull the motor apart and photograph my gears after 2000 miles which should be in a few weeks. (I ride about 50miles round trip 5 days per week)
Sweet, yes it helps. My switch was broken when I bought it. I think "open" is forward, "connected" is reverse. Inside the controller is a little 2 pin plug that connects to the key. So in one position the key closes the connection (reverse) and the other position is open (forward). I don't know which is which regarding red/green.
It would be useful to know if others want to replicate the setup, however I'm fairly convinced now that we are running the exact same wiring. I had to use a hard drive jumper connector to jump my controller. I think docnjoj's wiring was not correct, and it matches your description and my own experience.
If the rain stops I will go try out the bike again If it doesn't, I might head out anyways!
66v does sound sweet. My current batteries can't do that (36v or 72v) and I do need to get some use from them before I invest in more. Your commute sounds full on. I'm very interested to see photos of your bike and the gears. If they've survived I will be quite amazed. The gap between 66v and ~80v is decent though, perhaps it made all the difference.
How do you tackle hills? Wide open throttle & peddling like mad?