Papa wrote:You really should limit yourself to at least 3x on disc hubs - especially on front wheels. Remember, unlike rim brakes, disc brakes load the spokes just like hub motors do. This is why most disc hub manufactures' won't warranty their hubs if laced less than 3x.
Once the wheel is built, bolt on a rotor and install it on the bike. Now install and connect the lever and cable to the caliper, then align the caliper on the rotor and simply "apply the brakes" to freeze the caliper in it's proper position to the rotor. A rubber band will hold pressure on the lever. Rotate the wheel, if necessary, to position the caliper where you want it, then build your caliper mount. I use 3/16" thick stock. Make sense?
BTW, considering the laden weight of your bike, I'd strongly suggest you use at least 180mm diameter rotor - a 203mm even better.
IIRC, SR's were dubbed, "Ovaltech" and Sugino's was "Cycloid." I have a nice stash of Biopace and was using them on 152mm cranks. But lately, I've been spinning a belt. Now if I could have the CNC wizards carve me an 8mm Bio-Pulley,... i'd be in Fat City.docnjoj wrote:"Are the chainrings you posted oval instead of round? EDIT: I see you already said "ovoid",...I thought ovoid was a brand name! I have heard of them, are they easier on old knees? (I have two of those,...old knees, I mean)"
I too have "old knees", S/M and I did sone research a while back on bike solutions. Biopace is not it! the data was always equivocal as to whether they actually helped, and I believe the market spoke as always. What seems to help, and I am about to try is shorter cranks. I have 175s right now and I plan to go back to 150mm like on my old trike. I never had knee problems then but I haven't ridden it in over a year. I'm gunna get those pedal shorteners that they use on tandems and make an instant 150 crank. I don't have the drill press accuracy to drill my cranks and may as well pay for my lack!
docnjoj wrote:Stein does use those Bitex hubs like you have in 3x but they have no dish and the wheel is centered over the middle of the flanges. The one big problem I had was that they have very little lateral support and I think that is why my wheel failed. The flange width is only about 45 mm, too small for the front of a heavy trike.
My new plastic wheels seem to be quite strong and you can prolly find some on yard and garden carts that have been either discarded or sent to goodwill. They are glass filled nylon.
docnjoj wrote:I too have "old knees", S/M and I did sone research a while back on bike solutions. Biopace is not it! the data was always equivocal as to whether they actually helped, and I believe the market spoke as always.
What seems to help, and I am about to try is shorter cranks. I have 175s right now and I plan to go back to 150mm like on my old trike.
Papa wrote:Now if I could have the CNC wizards carve me an 8mm Bio-Pulley,... i'd be in Fat City.
docnjoj wrote:The apparent theory on the short crank issue is that spinning in a smaller circle is easier on the knees than the longer extension/flexion of the larger crank arms. You need to compensate for the torque loss with lower gearing but with a motor it really doesn't seem all that critical.
I'm gunna finish testing the new wheels first this week with another 50-75 miles riding and if my knees still hurt I will spend the bucks on the crank shorteners. We shall see! Good luck on your trike build, Amberwolf.
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