Naturally, the package arrived while I was at work.
It is mostly intact--Lyen did a good job packing it, but USPS did a really good job of bashing the box around and distorting the actual outer box, so that some of the packing inside was actually shaken loose (one of the corner pieces to hold the rim in place.
They did very very slightly ding the very edge of the rim, but it doesn't appear to affect anythng, and I can only see it if I tilt it to pass light across it just right. What's funny about this is that Lyen had decided to send me a non-dinged rim (though still with the same type of axle-exit cable repair the other had), presumably partly because I use rim brakes on DGA. So that part of his effort was futile, unfortunately.
They didn't appear to damage anything else, though.
For now I just swapped the whole Fusin wheel and controller off DayGlo Avenger, and put this kit on there, to give it a test ride around the block. It works great.
It is significantly quieter than the Fusin during acceleration, though not that much quieter when riding at speed. Coasting is about the same, since I have the freewheel disabled on the Fusin.
I've been having some trouble with the rear wheel after an unavoidable pothole incident a few days back, so the rear brake rubs sometimes (I think a cone nut might have been jarred just a hair loose, though I'm not sure how it could happen--the rear wheel will wobble a little back and forth if I rock the bike sideways. Not enough to really see, but I can feel it, and feel the brake rub when it happens). So the friction from that may be affecting the first readings I have today.
Only thing I will probably have to do if this controller supports it is add a Hi/Med/Lo connector for the handlebar switch, like the Fusin has--it keeps me from wasting battery on high-power starts when i don't need to, which is most of the time.
For now I just positioned the thumb throttle (that came with it) a bit further forward,
so that I can't actually hit full throttle;
the housing for the Hi/Med/Lo Fusin switch still on the bars keeps the throttle from going higher than about 90%, and the rest of the positioning makes it comfortable to hold at around 50% or less, having to rotate my hand around the bar to go much further.
I like this thumb throttle better than the other one I had on it for the Fusin. It does not have the same scaling, and it seems like it is more logarithmic or something. Most of the high power is in the last 1/3 of it. It is possible that is in the controller response rather than the physical throttle--I would have to put a compatible connector on the previous throttle to test that; it's still wired right into the Fusin harness right now.
The 2807 is very powerful compared to the Fusin, and could suck my poor little NiMH pack dry very quickly, at the rate it can draw power at full throttle at startups. Once I get one of my other battery packs built, I won't have to worry so much.
I get peak amp readings of nearly 25A, which is about 4C for that 9A NiMH pack. It'd only be 2C for my 24V NiMH pack, which is 13Ah, but it is not healthy and probably can't do that kind of draw without severe sag--at least it would not murder it, though.
The only two things that were a bit of an issue to sort were power input, since I didn't have one of those 3-pin sort-of-T connectors but I did want to preserve it intact, to switch it back if I had to for any reason, and an ebrake connections, since mine are hall-based and put out a ~5V signal for brake while this controller requires grounding the brake line.
The former was easy to fix, which I did by simply pushing out the flat bladed power, ground, and keyswitch contacts, and clamping them between the screw-together lugs I have on my battery-connecting anderson multipoles. Wrapped with electrical tape and zip tied together so they can't rub or short, this works fine and leaves the option to go back to the other connector with no soldering.
The latter was a little harder. Rather than trying to get 5V over to the ebrake handle's hall from the throttle's hall power, then inverting that ebrake signal output, I went with a relay system using a relay (top gold relay of the two) out of some old circuit board in my junk bin.
With the Fusin, the ebrake signal line and ground powered the coil of a 5V relay (the bottom relay of the two) out of some printer, which switched the 12V to my brake light on and off, while the ebrake signal also told the Fusin to stop.
Having no 5V on the brake wires from the Lyen controller, I'd either have had to source 5V for the hall from the throttle, cutting into the brand new throttle cable, or simply go with all 12V stuff and a 12V relay. I decided on the latter, as it required no cutting into existing cables. I put a mechanical switch on the front brake mechanism at the fork,
which switches the ground side of the relay coil on when braking,
triggering the relay. That relay uses one pole NO to short the ebrake line from the Lyen controller, and uses the other pole NO to connect power to the brake light in back.
The switch itself is just a little NO panel pushbutton momentary switch, which is ziptied to the brake cable rubber boot just hard enough to keep it on but not enough to crush the boot. The button gets pushed in just before the brake pads touch the rim. As the arms press further, the boot compresses, allowing the switch to move with it, preventing it from being crushed under the brake-arm force. It may wear out early from that force, but I have a couple of handfuls of these switches, and I'll have a better way of doing it once I find my bag of microswitches with little rollers on them that came out of old microwaves.
I left all the Fusin stuff intact on the bike so all I have to do to revert it if needed is pull the new controller and wheel, and put the Fusin controller and wheel back on and hook it back to the original harness (still on there).
Oh, I did also have to file the fork-side edges of the torque washers, as the lawyerlips of my fork are slightly radiused on the outer side, so a sharp edge on the washers won't allow them to seat.
Pretty minor mod and should still fit on any other fork I have, too. The torque arm was simple enough to deal with on my fork, with a small hose clamp I usually keep in my bag of tools on my bike.
I have not yet explored any other options, or hooked up the USB stuff yet. Had hoped to do that tonite, and still might. We'll see.