Discharge numbers from today aren't available, except for the Ah (1.191) and Wh (61.32) for the usual trip home from work; that's with me hardly pedalling at all; I've been so worn out walking (more like hobbling) all day every day at work recently that it's difficult to pedal much by the time I'm done for the day. Typical speed home between 15-17MPH (avg on speedo shows 11).
Note that I am a bit uncertain about that Ah figure; it doesn't seem right but hta'ts what I wrote down. :?
Charging numbers from last night:
Pack A (2/3 of the 36V pack):
25.92V start
28.10V finish
2.98A peak charge current
88.3W peak charge power
4.969Ah put back in
140.6Wh put back in
Pack B (1/3 of 36V pack plus 12V pack):
25.92V start
27.99V finish
2.98A peak charge current
88.3W peak charge power
4.558Ah put back in
129.3Wh put back in
So Pack B is indeed still running better than Pack A, as it takes less to charge it back to full. The previous numbers indicating the reverse were almost certainly an artifact of it running all night on trickle charge.
I didn't have time to stop and write down the numbers, and dont' remember them exactly, but I noted a few things while riding now that hte TWM is where I can see it in operation.
First, the typical watts-at-speed for ~15-16MPH is 250-350W. There was unpredictable windiness on both outbound and return trips, so I can't get a very specific reading yet.
Next, the voltage sag on the pack is noticeable at only 2-3A, but reaches 3-5V sag by 7A, and by 10-12A it's over 7-8V of sag. At 19A it's well over 10-12V of sag.
I had an odd problem during the ride a few times, where the motor would not re-engage after braking. Whenever this happened, my brake light was also stuck on, so it was something to do with the braking switches or relay.
Every time, it fixed itself after I fiddled with the switch that I made down on the cable between the front brake arms. After the first two times, I took the button out of the switch (it's a removable/replaceable lamp module) so that the switch cannot be activated, and just used the e-brake switch lever (from Ianmcnally's latest care package) that's wired in parallel with it.
That should've fixed it, but didn't. I ended up cutting the wire from the arm-switch, and that did work. I am assuming there's something wrong with the switch itself, and vibration of a particular type must be causing it to short internally, as there is no other external force that could apply to it to cause it that I can find.
This moves up the schedule for adding that microswitch in place of it, since I prefer to do all the braking in front with my right hand (the ebrake lever is on the left for the rear wheel; currently not cabled up due to the rim problems that wheel has).
Note that I am a bit uncertain about that Ah figure; it doesn't seem right but hta'ts what I wrote down. :?
Charging numbers from last night:
Pack A (2/3 of the 36V pack):
25.92V start
28.10V finish
2.98A peak charge current
88.3W peak charge power
4.969Ah put back in
140.6Wh put back in
Pack B (1/3 of 36V pack plus 12V pack):
25.92V start
27.99V finish
2.98A peak charge current
88.3W peak charge power
4.558Ah put back in
129.3Wh put back in
So Pack B is indeed still running better than Pack A, as it takes less to charge it back to full. The previous numbers indicating the reverse were almost certainly an artifact of it running all night on trickle charge.
I didn't have time to stop and write down the numbers, and dont' remember them exactly, but I noted a few things while riding now that hte TWM is where I can see it in operation.
First, the typical watts-at-speed for ~15-16MPH is 250-350W. There was unpredictable windiness on both outbound and return trips, so I can't get a very specific reading yet.
Next, the voltage sag on the pack is noticeable at only 2-3A, but reaches 3-5V sag by 7A, and by 10-12A it's over 7-8V of sag. At 19A it's well over 10-12V of sag.
I had an odd problem during the ride a few times, where the motor would not re-engage after braking. Whenever this happened, my brake light was also stuck on, so it was something to do with the braking switches or relay.
Every time, it fixed itself after I fiddled with the switch that I made down on the cable between the front brake arms. After the first two times, I took the button out of the switch (it's a removable/replaceable lamp module) so that the switch cannot be activated, and just used the e-brake switch lever (from Ianmcnally's latest care package) that's wired in parallel with it.
That should've fixed it, but didn't. I ended up cutting the wire from the arm-switch, and that did work. I am assuming there's something wrong with the switch itself, and vibration of a particular type must be causing it to short internally, as there is no other external force that could apply to it to cause it that I can find.
This moves up the schedule for adding that microswitch in place of it, since I prefer to do all the braking in front with my right hand (the ebrake lever is on the left for the rear wheel; currently not cabled up due to the rim problems that wheel has).