As promised, pics (and of course a wall of text in there, too
First, I had to cut the bottom piece into front and back halves to go over the stem. Since the back half has one screw hole to connect it to the top piece, and the front half has two, it should still stay on ok. May vibrate a lot; we'll see.
Then some mockups with everything taken off the center of the bars (can mostly be seen hanging off the bike). The plastic covers are just sitting on there, barely balanced to stay.
The headlight is just sitting in there; it took about 3 or 4 minutes to carefully let go of it all each time so it wouldn't fall off again before I got the camera.
Of course, I can't find the clear cover that goes over the instrument section. I did find the actual instrument unit (speedo, odo, fuel gauge, idiot lights for brights, oil, battery, etc.), which *should* have had the cover on it, but it didn't.
Pics during assembly now. First, I decided that in case I want to try running that headlight or some other 12V headlight from it, I'd better put a heatsink on that DC-DC because I'd be running it hard.
It's off an old Athlon or PentiumII hersheybar style SlotA/1 type CPU. Not sure which one as it wasn't attached, just in the junkbox.
This gives finnage out to the sides as well as over the top of it, so it will cool better than just the PentiumPro heatsink I found first, which would just barely cover the whole heatsink surface of the DC-DC. I just used a hose clamp to hold it in place (the zip ties were temporary as they are junk, and break the little clips out--can't be used for anything real, just for mockups of stuff). It's pretty tight. I'd've used nuts and bolts to secure it, but I cannot find the chuck for any of the drills right now, OR the pliers large enough to grip the chucks without a key.
But the clamp holds it really well, and AFAICT it holds it flat.
Next up is the TWM, ziptied to the bars over the stem clamp, so that it stays in the shade most of the time and in theory should be more readable. We'll see. It'll also keep the rain off of it should that happen before I get a clear cover over the hole.
It'll be replaced with teh CA once I fix it. Also, if I decide to do regen experiments with the WU at teh same time as the TWM monitors output, I have enough space in the window for both.
The controller is hose-clamped to the stem. Since there is some flex in the casing, I added a thick plastic sheet under the PCB, taped to the aluminum, so it can't short out as the clamp pushes the casing agaist the roundish stem.
THere is a whole bunch of wires that still have to fit in front of and around it, without (hopefully) blocking it's airflow. While it is open on top and bottom, the top plastic cover shoudl keep rain out.
The keyswitch from Ianmcnally was installed into the top left corner of the bottom rear cover.
Unfortunately that was a mistake, as I totally forgot that the bottom left corner of that DC-DC heatsink ends up where that keyswitch now is.
So I had to drill a second hole (both holes were done by hand since it's just plastic, using first a utility knife blade to start the center, then my first Unibit that can start small holes, then the next larger that had the right size step in it. Fortunately both of those are large enough to be held by hand and worked with, though it is difficult.
Powerup test once the wiring was finished:
I forgot that I had to flip the turn signal switch 180 degrees due to the wires sticking out one end so far that they'd short against the bars, so the turn signals were reversed. Had to change the wiring at the light-end of the signals; easy but annoying.
I also discovered that for some reason the ebrake relay is not working as it should. It clicks, so it's getting 12V power, but it doesn't trip either half of the relay (for ebrake or brake light). I made an easy workaround for the brake light, by hooking it up to ebrake switch output side which hooks to one end of the relay coil (since the input side comes from 12V, and the relay coil's other end is grounded). But something is wrong inside the relay I guess. I haven't tried measuring it, but if I use the needlenose to short across the contacts externally, it engages the ebrake fine. Gonna have to dig thru my stuff for a new 12V DPDT relay.
For now, at least the brake light works, and the mechanical brakes both work front and rear.
I superglued some nuts to the inside of the plastic top section, so that I can screw the three parts together without having to hold a bunch of things in place at once.
Worked out as well as expected; one of the three came off the plastic right after I threaded the screw into it, which is fine since I only needed it to stay in place until I did that.
Assembled the casing on the bars/stem, including a single ziptie thru the "grille" of the stem section, holding it to the cable bundles it helps hide.
I'd say it looks more like Threepio than StormTrooper now, with those wires in the belly.
From the side you can really see it doesn't really hide everything, but that's ok--it's main purpose is to give me more surface area to paint DayGlo for visiblity, with a secondary purpose of hiding the wires and stuff, and giving me a place to put things other than directly on teh bars or on bits of bracket hanging off the bars.
It might be hard to see cuz of the flash, but the TWM is on, and you can also see the now-hooked-up power meter on the throttle. I never hooked it up before because I had the Fusin meter, which is better.
I also don't remember if this is a 48V or 36V throttle meter, but if it's only 36V I can change the little board out with a 48V half-grip that I got from Methods a while back, which is identical in every way I can see inside and out except that it is not a thumb lever, but a half-grip, and it's marked as 48V. Perhaps I will instead swap the thumb/grip section, if it actually fits like it looks like it should. It would be easier, as then I just swap the entire throttle body, and change the connector on the ends.
As I have no headlight at all (other than my helmet light) right now, I have a little solar flashlight that's fairly bright, maybe 15-20 lumens, with a nice spot, that happens to fit well in a corner of the casing, it's back end tucked among a wire bundle.
A zip tie could hold the front end down to one of the front screwholes.
Looks funny, but it's only temporary