OneEye wrote:All that said, "time is money" in a hobby economy is a questionable tenet. It's amazing how much effort someone will put into something that is their passion. As long as you are having fun doing it, the enjoyment of the creation process is as much a part of the experience as the ride at the end.
safe wrote:The actual motor doesn't need to be a hub motor... it's the gears that give the advantage... (and if high rpms are your problem then use a motor with a built in geardown like the MY1020Z3)
dirty_d wrote:yea but that gearing is adding to the mechanical losses and the hubmotor would have a higher peak efficiency.
dirty_d wrote:DC brushless direct drive hubmotors are efficient and can be overpowered without burning up because of their mass, but they are only efficient at a narrow rpm range the same as all permanent magnet motors. so why not use gears with them? mount it in some way where the axle is fixed and the sprocket is replaced with a fixed sprocket, you run the chain from one of the gears on the motor to the rear wheel with a derailleur. you can install one of those freewheel cranks for tandem bikes and run a chain from the crank to another sprocket on the motor. the hubmotors are already designed to run at a very low rpm without any gearing so the mechanical losses in the chain will probably be the same as in a regular bicycle and also be very quiet. id like to do this to my bike but im not really ready to spend $200 on a hub motor.
Miles wrote:The problem with putting the motor and pedal power through derailleurs is that 3/32" chain and sprockets wear so quickly.
Miles wrote:But you're not putting pedal power through it, as well, though
Miles wrote:Yes, we'll see how durable the hub gears are......
Dalecv wrote:It is hard enough to find room on a bike to put batteries to get all of the Ah I want, but to add a large outside case spinning motor just so I have a one to one ratio with the drive wheel doesn't seem to make much sense. I think hub motors are best put at the center of the wheel where they are designed to go.
Please don't pull Safe's chain drive leash or more graphs will poop out!
safe wrote:Miles wrote:The problem with putting the motor and pedal power through derailleurs is that 3/32" chain and sprockets wear so quickly.
I don't agree with that.
I've been running a cheapo chain on my bike and pushing 1.36 horsepower (peak) and have gone 2,500 miles with it with no noticeable chain wear. The important thing about chain life is lubrication... if you neglect your chain then it will die an early death..........
Chains that are only 3/32" are still plenty strong and last a long time if you take good care of them.
mastermarc wrote:As far as the chain goes, its gotta be stardard chain that fits through a regular bike derailer...we bought the highest performance SRAM chain but it didn't really last that long.
Dalecv wrote:It is hard enough to find room on a bike to put batteries ... Please don't pull Safe's chain drive leash or more graphs will poop out!
recumbent wrote:Hub motors fit the goal most of us seek, we don't mind pedaling a little bit some times, it's a pedal bike after-all.
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