Kepler wrote:Good work Adrian. Lots to like about your solution. I especially like the low parts count, something i am working really hard on at the moment with my drive.
The clamp looks good. Nice and simple and I really like how the clamp becomes the the pivot bearing. What type of material is it? I wonder how the tapped threads will go in the clamp? Need to put a fair bit of pressure on the clamp to keep it in place so I hope the threads are up to it.I am sure we will soon find out. If they don't hold, you always have the option of making the clamp wider and drilling the clamp hole right through above the pivot shaft then using nuts and bolts.
No road testing in sunny Melbourne today
adrian_sm wrote:Note what happens when you guess the drill size for a tapped hole... a broken tap.
gtadmin wrote:adrian_sm wrote:Note what happens when you guess the drill size for a tapped hole... a broken tap.
Hi, FWIW, if you mean that you didn't know what size to drill, metric threads are dead easy to remember: it's the diameter - pitch eg M6 1.0 pitch tapping size is 6-1= 5.0mm. If you mean you knew that but guessed the drill size, measure the bugger next time
Like the drive
full-throttle wrote:Careful of squashing those butted Al tubes, could always make the clamp wider to distribute the load.
full-throttle wrote:..and being made of plastic won't even damage the paint, right?
Your friction drive is a very elegant and simple alternative. What are you going to do against the road grit ingress?
BTW feel free to borrow the throttle interface, it works with both pot and hall throttles AND the code now runs on the Turnigy meter which is extremely easy to hook up to throttle, making it an inexpensive monitor at the same time. Here's a teaser
full-throttle wrote:What are the no-load speed and current?
have you tried testing it with a load on ( brake ).
.. curious to see if you have any sync issues
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