


Miles wrote:Hi es
I'm still using 36 5Ah high power density NiMH cells... The lead is from an electric kettle - 15 amp rating, I think. I'll check the gauge.
Maybe doubling up conductors is the way, for a ready-made coil?
http://www.cablescience.com/retractile_cords.html
Backpacks work better for a stretched-out riding position - I forget mine's there after a few seconds - mind you, that's only 5lbs weight of batteries... say 7lbs total weight .

Thanks. I may fix the batteries to the frame on the next build. There are real advantages to having them in a backpack, though. IMO, on a rack over the rear wheel is the worst place for them....extremegreenmachine wrote:Really sweet build...
Too bad you cant mount rack your batteries to finish it off...

Miles wrote:Thanks. I may fix the batteries to the frame on the next build. There are real advantages to having them in a backpack, though. IMO, on a rack over the rear wheel is the worst place for them....extremegreenmachine wrote:Really sweet build...
Too bad you cant mount rack your batteries to finish it off...

liveforphysics wrote:Have you felt the extremely supple ultra-fine-strange silicone 8awg wire Miles? I think you may find a cable made from twisting a pair of 8awg silicone wires together, and fixing a fine elastic bungee to some point of the cable which you don't expect to be needing to drawn from the backpack, so it keeps the slack all tucked away when not needed, but if you change positions or dismount or whatever to require additional slack, you've got an extra few foot loop that the be drawn out from the backpack by stretching the bungee.
I think you may find something similar to that to be an even less intrusive backpack-bike cabling approach, gaining high-current capability.




Miles wrote:Thanks. I may fix the batteries to the frame on the next build. There are real advantages to having them in a backpack, though. IMO, on a rack over the rear wheel is the worst place for them....extremegreenmachine wrote:Really sweet build...
Too bad you cant mount rack your batteries to finish it off...


I'd prefer it if I could fit sturdier tyres on mine but using the Stelvios was the only way to create enough space for the motorextremegreenmachine wrote:SO i have 4 high end bike builds, and it turns out my cheapest one...a downtube 20 inch wheeled folder is my favorite...i put 1300 miles on it so far in 4 months. I call it my beater...of all my bikes its the one i can lock outside and not worry cuz its low key looking. I love it and cant put my finger on just why. It had thin tires like yours and i went with schwab fat apples and disc brakes and that made a big difference. I hated those thin racing bike tires on a ebike especially since mine is front wheel drive. When i put the fat apple tires on it (amazingly they fit) my love affair started with this bike.
Mostly balance. On the Moulton, the best place to mount them would probably be under the tie rod for the cruciform.extremegreenmachine wrote:So why do you not like a rear mounted battery? Is it asthetics? Or functionality? Is it a balance thing? Like always...just gathering info...

HAL9000v2.0 wrote:Miles, do you need 498 pcs? I'll take two...

Something like this...Miles wrote: On the Moulton, the best place to mount them would probably be under the tie rod for the cruciform.


liveforphysics wrote:That isn't just 2 x 6s packs I'm seeing is it?

Miles wrote:liveforphysics wrote:That isn't just 2 x 6s packs I'm seeing is it?
Yes, a whopping 6 Ah...



liveforphysics wrote: For smallish sized packs, backpack makes a lot of sense. Backpack with a compact, quiet, high current opertunity charger and a few Nano-tech packs able to be charged in 6mins makes boatloads of sense. Even if you only have a couple hundred watt-hours, you can really leverage them well with a setup like that.


Quick "opportunity charge" sounds like a good idea. Problem is, where to find a powerful (around a kW) yet compact and quiet charger. The Meanwells many of us use are 350W/kg. The Flatpack2 I just bought is 800W/kg. However this is nothing compared to the power density of some of the DC-DC converters that are around 2000W/kg. Problem is the DC-DC are typically max 70V in (48V nominal). They are small beacuse Switching frequency is in the 100kHz to MHz range. (Most 110V mains PSUs seem to be 10's to 100kHz range)


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