Currie-EZip ebike Kit $289.88 - Amazon.com

[DrkAngel]

Of course, for the "innovator", the motor, alone is available!
450w 24v, gear reduction motor, standard 1/2" x 1/8" chain (MY1080Z) - $65 + shipping

Rated for 24v, but runs nicely from 12v - 36v.

"Kit" for $!00? Then add battery.

Extra notes:
Motor is capable of direct connection to DC - battery.
Gear works nicely with 3/16" chain, also.
3000 rpm w/7.2:1 reduction ratio = 417 rpm.
Sealed ball bearings, easy to lubricate reduction gears.

"Related items" same listing:
"Universal" mounting bracket available - $10
Throttle - $9
24v controller - $15.50

[neptronix]

Motor is capable of direct connection to DC - battery.

You can do that.... but you'll get unlimited amps, which will beat the hell out of the battery and beat the hell out of the motor during acceleration and hill climbing duty.

I wouldn't call that an option or even mention it really without mentioning the fact that an unlimited current will destroy things.

[DrkAngel]

100 amp T-Plug connector (Dean's Plug)
Reliable connection, but might possibly separate if snagged on brush ... Duct tape solution?

Makes rear wheel work, extremely simple.
For "Standardization", I cut the wire 2 1/4" from the motor.


Reliable source:
New Red Nylon T-plug Male/Female 5 Pairs(10 pcs)- $3.99 + $2 shipping
Fast shipping & confirmed stable under soldering temperature.

[Zen_Shenron]

Previously, it has been possible to buy the entire EZip bike for around $300, sadly, haven't seen anything near that, in almost 1/2 a year.
Present prices are in the $500 - $600 range.
Possibly some clearance items, come Fall, when sales slow down?

I just managed to pick up one at my local Pep Boys for $399. It was apparently marked wrong . As my first entyl level e-bike I am happy to have gotten it so cheap, as I was saving for one of the Amped-Bike kits. I have already ordered the southpaw freewheel for the mod you have suggested, and another battery pack which I am thinking about wiring in parallel to give it more ah.

My initial impression of the bike is its very heavy, having come from aluminum frame mountain bikes(non-electric). Also without using the motor its like pedaling thru molasses in winter, which I hoped will be fixed by the freewheel upgrade. Overall I think it is a good beginners bike but I am already planning my first real e-bike project, but that will be awhile before I get started with it.

[dumbass]

Yes an Ezip is heavy but only about 10# more then a steel bike. The freewheel with give a higher top speed but it doesn't change how it feels to peddle. In fact it will make it feel even heavier because the torque of the motor will be significantly lower.

Bob

[DrkAngel]

16T freewheel upgrade will allow 25% more motor speed, with the loss of 20% torque.
The oem freewheels turn "hard", like they are filled with tar.
Pedal alone, is much easier with the Southpaw.

Also, check tire pressure, 70lb recommended for best rolling.

Lift bike, spin tire, look for brake contact.

Before changing freewheel, spin rear by hand, and check time, till stop.
Compare to new freewheel!

[dumbass]

16T freewheel upgrade will allow 25% more motor speed, with the loss of 20% torque.
The oem freewheels turn "hard", like they are filled with tar.
Pedal alone, is much easier with the Southpaw.

Also, check tire pressure, 70lb recommended for best rolling.

Lift bike, spin tire, look for brake contact.

Before changing freewheel, spin rear by hand, and check time, till stop.
Compare to new freewheel!

Not to start another argument but I don't see how your #s can be correct. I know you have done this mod more then once. So I do not question that you increase your top speed from say 16mph to 20mph (your stated 25%). But to only lose 20% torque seems very low to me. While I have not tried to run the numbers but based on the the significantly increased load on the motor I would think it would be more in the 30% to even 40% range. And BTW, this added load also increases the amp draw on the undersized crap battery pack (yes, I know you don't normally run the stock packs but many do). I think the mod is great and simple for those wanting more speed and can afford a better pack. But personally if speed isn't an issue I think the lose of even 20% torque on this under powered bike is a big lose especially if a person has limited peddling ability. Just my opinion.....

Bob

[neptronix]

+1; efficiency takes a dive due to the motor staying at lower speeds for longer. If you overextend the gear ratio on an electric motor, you do risk overstressing it.. keep in mind that this is a very small motor and can't handle a lot more power continuously than stock.

If you had hills like i have where i live, you would toast that motor, and/or it would not even make it up the hill in the first place.

I had a 450w currie lead sled and it was horrible on hills, almost useless. The motor would get very hot on hills... don't leave you hand on it for more than 1 second hot . That's on stock voltage with sagging lead acid batteries.

Now you know why i come on here and talk smack about the currie setup.

If you baby it and don't have much in the way of hills, you may as well just pedal a regular bike anyway.
( I feel the same way about those 250-350w geared motors btw )

[gogo]

If you baby it and don't have much in the way of hills, you may as well just pedal a regular bike anyway.
( I feel the same way about those 250-350w geared motors btw )

I'll take any assistance I can get and "feel" good about it.

[neptronix]

Where i draw the line is when the assistance doesn't make up for the added weight.

I go 15-20mph constant on my roadbike, so honestly an eBike that goes up to about that speed is useless to me.

Ride an unpowered eBike up a hill and you will realize that a lot of the work that a low power motor does is move it's own motor and battery weight + mechanical drag.

Once you ride a higher power bike, there is no going back to < 500w.

[vanilla ice]

I don't find that to be true at all. I can go a constant 15mph on my roadbike. Doesn't mean a 15mph ebike is useless to me, not by a long shot.

[dumbass]

Yes I agree with you. For many speed is not an important issue. My wife is very happy with a stock EZip and for the way she prefers to ride it handles the hills just fine. As for me I prefer having speed when I need/want it. My EZip drives through the bikes gearing and maintains 26+ with twin EZip motors. Personally I love the simple slide in battery packs (lifepo4 20ah) but hate the location over the rear wheel. So my next mod will be to replace the twin motors with a single brushless motor and relocation of the packs. Yeah, I know why? Because I haven't found what I consider a suitable frame that I feel I want to spend the money for. And I happen to think the EZip frame is a fairly good frame for handling the load of an ebike.

Bob

[DrkAngel]

The 16T mod, upgrades the stock 16mph speed to the "legal" 20mph.
With my 25.9v Li-ion, more like 22mph, with assist, past 25mph.
I jump ahead of 30mph traffic, with a 1 block headstart I can pump it up to 25mph, and travel 5 blocks before traffic nears me. Nice little cardio workout, and ... at 25mph-full throttle, power draw drops below 5 amps.

Yeah ... had to replace the oem 14-28T 7spd with a 11-30T, to increase pedal capability.
7 Speed Freewheel 11-30t 11-32t 11-34t LONG YIH Co.
$36 - Make Offer - "Deal" on multiple.

Long Yih.jpg (75.38 KiB) Viewed 887 times

I tend to cruise, on the level at 20mph and have never had any heat problems, (20 miles@20mph - no pedal assist.)

Oh! ... Speed-torque from 16T mod?

Simple example:
Doubling the speed , by going from a 20T to a 10T, speed increases to 200%, while torque decreases to 50%.
20/10 = 2 = 200% speed = 100% speed increase
10/20 = .5 = 50% torque = 50% torque decrease

Similarly ... Going from 20T to 16T ...
20/16 = 1.25 = 125% speed = 25% speed increase
16/20 = .8 = 80% torque = 20% torque decrease

Important to note:
Due to the "torque profile" - torque steadily decreases till a top speed is reached ...
At faster than 10.25mph, the 16T actually, applies more torque, to the road, than the lower geared 20T!

While at 0 mph the 16T has 80% torque of 20T, at:
2.5 mph the 16T has 85%
5 mph the 16T has 90%
7.5 mph the 16T has 95%
10 mph the 16T has 100%

In other words ...
The oem 20T freewheel would not benefit you, except accelerating to 10.25mph! ... or ... unless you take hills at less than 10.25mph!

Above 10 mph, the 16T greatly excels at torque production,
105% @ 11 mph,
110% @ 12 mph,
120% @ 13 mph,
135% @ 14 mph,
155% @ 15 mph,
200% @ 16 mph,
300% @ 17 mph!
Much beyond that, the 20T produces nothing, so comparison is not factorable.

Personally, I accelerate past 10 mph, in about 2 seconds, partial throttle w/pedal assist ...

[Nehmo]

That's where I bought my ezip replacement motor that I fried with 36v lifepo4 and 2000 miles

It fried? I was planning on going to 36 V with mine. But 2000 miles is a something for a bike.
What's your recommendation for a battery? I mean not lead-acid.

`~- Nehmo

[dumbass]

That's where I bought my ezip replacement motor that I fried with 36v lifepo4 and 2000 miles

It fried? I was planning on going to 36 V with mine. But 2000 miles is a something for a bike.
What's your recommendation for a battery? I mean not lead-acid.

`~- Nehmo

I have been using Thunder Sky lifepo4 20ah cells purchased from Elite Power Solutions $124+shipping for a 12v pack. I do not recommend buying the "balancers" though. And they do not sell a BMS, LVC or HVC. You would need to supply your own. Bob

[DrkAngel]

Amazon.com has some EZip Trailz models at $399.99.
(June 27, 2011) - EZip Trailz@$399.99
Shipping extra! $100+

[DrkAngel]

The 16T mod, upgrades the stock 16mph speed to the "legal" 20mph.
With my 25.9v Li-ion, more like 22mph, with assist, past 25mph.


Oh! ... Speed-torque from 16T mod?
Going from 20T to 16T ...
20/16 = 1.25 = 125% speed = 25% speed increase
16/20 = .8 = 80% torque = 20% torque decrease

Important to note:
Due to the "torque profile" - torque steadily decreases till a top speed is reached ...
At faster than 10.25mph, the 16T actually, applies more torque, to the road, than the lower geared 20T!

While at 0 mph the 16T has 80% torque of 20T, at:
2.5 mph the 16T has 85%
5 mph the 16T has 90%
7.5 mph the 16T has 95%
10 mph the 16T has 100%

In other words ...
The oem 20T freewheel would not benefit you, except accelerating to 10.25mph! ... or ... unless you take hills at less than 10.25mph!

Above 10 mph, the 16T greatly excels at torque production,
105% @ 11 mph,
110% @ 12 mph,
120% @ 13 mph,
135% @ 14 mph,
155% @ 15 mph,
200% @ 16 mph,
300% @ 17 mph!
Much beyond that, the 20T produces nothing, so comparison is not factorable.

Personally, I accelerate past 10 mph, in about 2 seconds, partial throttle w/pedal assist ...

Above, speed-torque, info-stats, pulled from the, below, graph.

20T vs 16Tsmall.JPG (30.33 KiB) Viewed 3084 times

[stoney]

Where can I buy just the 2 12v sla batteries that go inside the case.

[icecube57]

This thread has been everywhere but on topic..

[Floont]

This thread has been everywhere but on topic..

Amen!

[wineboyrider]

That's where I bought my ezip replacement motor that I fried with 36v lifepo4 and 2000 miles

It fried? I was planning on going to 36 V with mine. But 2000 miles is a something for a bike.
What's your recommendation for a battery? I mean not lead-acid.

`~- Nehmo

Yep. That motor didn't owe a thing. I whooped it! If you run it stock 6s lipo would lighten your load and watch those temps. Drkangel has the right tips. I still only use it as a back up bike. If that motor were bldc it would rock!

[neptronix]

I actually liked the brushless whine and simplicity of my currie/Mongoose bike when i had it. But the setup was far too limiting to me.

I can see 6S lipo working well long term, i would not be surprised if performance was identical to the stock SLA battery when you factor in SLA sag. But the LVC on the stock controller may be inappropriately high. If there is a LVC anyway.

[Floont]

...I can see 6S lipo working well long term, i would not be surprised if performance was identical to the stock SLA battery when you factor in SLA sag...

So... you are saying with SLA sag, a 6S1P / 22.2v pack is equivalent to a two 12v SLA's?

FA

[neptronix]

It's possible, if you have a good amount of 6S lipo in there, IE 20AH or more.

When you hit the throttle on the 24v battery, it is certainly sagging a few volts, whereas a larger 6S pack with a 20C rating would sag by a volt or less with the kind of amp draw that the currie setups have.

So in reality maybe it's 1 volt less nominal? And a little higher powered than the stock battery when you have the 6S pack at higher SOC, IE 25.2v fully charged.

[Floont]

...So in reality maybe it's 1 volt less nominal? And a little higher powered than the stock battery when you have the 6S pack at higher SOC, IE 25.2v fully charged.

A fully charged 24v SLA is about 26.4v (just measured mine), but the sag is significant at high amps. I want to get some real-world data on that using my Fluke (maybe today). The full charge on an SLA does not last more than a few minutes before it is running nominally 24 to 25v at load until it drops below 24v after 50% discharge. And of course, for battery life you gotta recharge an SLA at that point (another SLA disadvantage).

FA