Mark W Mark2 build/butcher thread

deecanio said:
i dont think the watts up can handle higher voltages, i forget the rating but i think its around 60v max?
either way i'd go for the CA everytime!!

Cheers


D

Hi, i tested my wattsup and it shows up to 70volts, though it is rated to 60v
 
Hi I have the same kit as you Mark and I burned my controller because of to high voltage ca. 73V :cry:. Now I'm waiting for a new one, but I realized another (problem?) When i turn the wheel (no power attached) only with hand, sometimes there is a big resistance, like something would be wrong inside the wheel (motor). I have no idea. Could it be the magnets? It is strange, because it is only sometimes. I only tested it on free rotation, so i don't think i could be broken because if too high current. The wheel rotated at ca. 60 something km/h before it stopped because the controller passed out.
I saw the picture of your controller. I have the same, but only the 36v version. My capacitors were only 50V. 2 mosfets were destroyed. I changed the capacitors to 63v. And the mosfets to 100V 28A. It did run for a while, but now it is dead again. I don't have an idea what is now wrong again. I'm not so good at it to find out. I ordered a new controller http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2615&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

But I am afraid the motor could be damaged too, because of the resistance which appears sometimes.
What do you think about it?
 
You have exactly the same Nine Continents motor and controller?

Can you take some pics of the burnt controller?

You're the only one I know of with this motor, other than some locals who got the same one from the same supplier.


With your motor, when you rotate it with "no power", is it completely unplugged? If so, can the main phase (power) wires touch? If so, you will create a brake, which is why it sometimes won't turn freely. Make sure the wires don't touch. There's not much to go wrong in the motor.


If you fitted 63v caps and run it at 73v....the caps would probably not last very long....did they fail or was it just the mosfets?

The internal resistance of higher spec mosfets might have been an issue (?).

The only difference I could find between the 36v and 48v controllers were the Mosfets. Both had 50v caps. I do know there is a LVC difference, but as the PCBs are soldered face to face it's impossible to find without hacking it to bits.
 
here are the pictures, the wheel was unpluged , when the resistance occured.
 
I think your motor problem was just the wires touching - try it.

Touch the ends together and try and spin it.

If they bump together when you don't expect it, it feels like the motor is broken.



With the controller, if you have replaced the Caps and the Fets...then I don't know what else would be broken, except possibly the last transistor on the Left in your pictrue, next to the fets. I think it's a voltage regulator or something.

They do make a 48v controller, it definitely runs at 54v ok.

Mark
 
You are right. I tried it and the motor problem was just the wires touching. Thanks . I ordered the other kit with the 48v controller and will try to compare them both and hopefully will find the problem with try and error.
 
Nice job on the mods jakun.

When FETs blow, it is common for the gate driver to also blow. If you're lucky, it will just be the gate resistor, which you can test in circuit with an ohmmeter. Not-so-lucky and you may need to replace the actual gate driver. The motor might run with one gate not working.
 
fechter said:
Nice job on the mods jakun.

When FETs blow, it is common for the gate driver to also blow. If you're lucky, it will just be the gate resistor, which you can test in circuit with an ohmmeter. Not-so-lucky and you may need to replace the actual gate driver. The motor might run with one gate not working.

hmm, and how does the gate driver look like? I think i found the gate resistors and they seem to be ok.

here is another closeup picture of the controller.

appendix: The controller works fine again.
 

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Another minor update:

Measured the current draw of my bike today, using work's DC clamp meter.

It peaks at 15.9 or 16.0 amps. The controller is rated for 18 amps, but it's not getting there.

So 16 amps x 54v = 864 watts being pulled from the battery. Looking at Brett's GL2 graph (same manufacturer, but mine is smaller diameter), which drew ~850w at 48 volts, and delivered 525 watts I guess mine is in the same 500-530w at the wheel range (but less torque than the GL2).

I'm planning to add material to the current bar in the controller to get it to 18amps :evil:

My battery is rated at 2c (10Ah), and has a 20amp fuse. My lights draw 1.7 amps. So hitting 18 amps should be ok.

The only catch, is I think my battery is not delivering the Ah like it used to, it's 6 months old now, used for 30-43k every work day. I've run out of batteries twice unexpectedly, on very windy days, but I still suspect it. It went flat at ~45k today, instead of 50 or so. I guess that could be the wind.

Maybe I should upgrade the batteries soon - 40amp current capability would be nice :)

I also fitted another Schwalbe Marathon Plus to the rear wheel - these tyres rock. The front Marathon has done 3500k without a puncture, while the Maxxis Overdrive Kevlar I had on the rear wheel has had 4 flats.
 
Mark_A_W said:
Another minor update:

Measured the current draw of my bike today, using work's DC clamp meter.

It peaks at 15.9 or 16.0 amps. The controller is rated for 18 amps, but it's not getting there.

So 16 amps x 54v = 864 watts being pulled from the battery. Looking at Brett's GL2 graph (same manufacturer, but mine is smaller diameter), which drew ~850w at 48 volts, and delivered 525 watts I guess mine is in the same 500-530w at the wheel range (but less torque than the GL2).

I'm planning to add material to the current bar in the controller to get it to 18amps :evil:

My battery is rated at 2c (10Ah), and has a 20amp fuse. My lights draw 1.7 amps. So hitting 18 amps should be ok.

The only catch, is I think my battery is not delivering the Ah like it used to, it's 6 months old now, used for 30-43k every work day. I've run out of batteries twice unexpectedly, on very windy days, but I still suspect it. It went flat at ~45k today, instead of 50 or so. I guess that could be the wind.

Maybe I should upgrade the batteries soon - 40amp current capability would be nice :)

I also fitted another Schwalbe Marathon Plus to the rear wheel - these tyres rock. The front Marathon has done 3500k without a puncture, while the Maxxis Overdrive Kevlar I had on the rear wheel has had 4 flats.

I drive my bike now for one month with nine continent brushless motor and this low cost controller from china:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2615&p=42032#p42032
@ 4 dewalt 2s2p Akkupack and it rocks!!! I have a really good acceleration and a topspeed of 40 km/h. By acceleration the motor pulls 28A @ ca. 66v, so I have about 1,8KW. That is ca. 2,5 PS / HP
But I need this Marathon Plus tyres, last week I had 2 times a flat.
 
jakun said:
I drive my bike now for one month with nine continent brushless motor and this low cost controller from china:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2615&p=42032#p42032
@ 4 dewalt 2s2p Akkupack and it rocks!!! I have a really good acceleration and a topspeed of 40 km/h. By acceleration the motor pulls 28A @ ca. 66v, so I have about 1,8KW. That is ca. 2,5 PS / HP
But I need this Marathon Plus tyres, last week I had 2 times a flat.

Yes, I'm following your exploits with interest!! I might get one of those controllers one day.

My upgrade limit is my battery. It isn't rated for more than 20 amps.

And unfortunately I need more range than you are getting with your 2s2p dewalt packs, I'd have to charge at work.

Does the motor get hot at 1.8kW?
 
you can just take a bigger batterypack. My is only ca. 4kg, so twise would be 8 kg with a range of up to 40km.
 
Yeah, but then I'd need to spend lots more money!

I usually get 50k out of my 4.5 kg's worth of Lithium with my current power.
 
The motor doesn't get really hot, just hand warm after a lng trip, but its winter here. I wonder how much I can push it. When I will do the 99V configuration, it will pull max. lets say 28Ax100V=2800W at acceleration and something between 1000-1500W at driving. It should got ca. 77Km/h freewheel speed and hopefully 60-65 km/h at the road. The only fear I have is that I'll overhead the motor because of the thin diameter of the motor wires(how thik are they exactly?). How can I calculate how much watts this motor will survive? or a which Ampere and Volts the wire would get too hot (melt)? All other components are bulletproof I think. The Batterie can give that current without any problem, don't get even warm. And after 4110 Fet-update the controller schould last up to 12x370w per Fet= 4440W but will only got up to max. 3000W

Would be happy about any sugestions!
 
I opened my motor and the wires are only about 0.8mm diameter. There isn't a lot of wire compared to, say, a Crystalyte 408 - which is why this motor is lighter.

It was 42 degrees here the other day. The motor was too hot to touch BEFORE I went for a ride :)

The only way you are going to find out the max power is the hard way....
 
The letter of the day is R.

R for Rack and Reliability....could be a lost episode of Blackadder the Third...


After 6 months of abuse, my reinforced cantilevered rack failed.

Anyway, some welding from work, and some new 3mm aluminium plate reinforcements bolted to the rack has it up and running again. We'll see how long this lasts...
 

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Crap.

I just broke a pedal.

Then I noticed I've dinted my front rim again. That's two rims so far :(

I really need to get the downhill rim I have kicking around spoked in.
 
Mark_A_W said:
Crap.

I just broke a pedal.

Then I noticed I've dinted my front rim again. That's two rims so far :(

I really need to get the downhill rim I have kicking around spoked in.

Hi apropo destroying things.
Here you can see what happens when full 30 Amrere goes into a dewalt Batterypack because of a dry joint in a double pack. I think some of the batteries just broke down and then the other got too high voltage and burst.
 

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ouch that cell is DESTROYED! lol
 
I think we are forming a club of "guys who break stuff" :)

Jakun, I'm dead keen to here more of your exploits with the nine continents motor and the 48v 28amp controller at high voltage! Does the motor get hot?

I tried upping the amps on mine, by adding some wire to the current bar in the controller, but it's causing BMS cutouts and "fades" where I think the BMS somehow cuts the current back without completely shutting off.

I'm going to put it back stock today. Getting less range with more current anyway, for an unnoticable performance increase.

My batteries are my limitation, they don't even seem to like getting close to 20 amps :(

Hopefully my brother's motor will be here soon, a GL2 from Brett (Nine Continents 205 I think), and I'll have fun helping him getting that working, and I'll be able to check if it will fit my bike.
 
Mark_A_W said:
I think we are forming a club of "guys who break stuff" :)

Jakun, I'm dead keen to here more of your exploits with the nine continents motor and the 48v 28amp controller at high voltage! Does the motor get hot?

I tried upping the amps on mine, by adding some wire to the current bar in the controller, but it's causing BMS cutouts and "fades" where I think the BMS somehow cuts the current back without completely shutting off.

I'm going to put it back stock today. Getting less range with more current anyway, for an unnoticable performance increase.

My batteries are my limitation, they don't even seem to like getting close to 20 amps :(

Hopefully my brother's motor will be here soon, a GL2 from Brett (Nine Continents 205 I think), and I'll have fun helping him getting that working, and I'll be able to check if it will fit my bike.

I was lucky to get an other new controller from china for scooters. It's made for 72Volts and it works well up to 95Volts. I used it some time at this voltages. But now i just tried to connect 3 Dewalt batteries in series to it and it workes. The controller gets pretty hot @108V but it works. I didn't increase the ampere of the controller, it has 28Ampere originally and it's absolutelly enough for me. When i accelerate on a steep hill or when it's wet the wheel spinns. The top speed was more important for me. Now I have a top speed of ca. 55-60 km/h. The Motor seems to be the most robust thing on the whole bike it doesn't even get hot on that high voltage. I thing too much Ampere could be more destructive for it, but i guess that up to 40-50 Ampere the power loss in form of heat isn't too high.
 
Is that your third controller or second one?

I know you got the chinese 48v 28A one, I'm thinking of picking up one myself..but my batteries won't do 28amps and then it gets REALLY EXPENSIVE :(
 
Mark_A_W said:
Crap.

I just broke a pedal.

Then I noticed I've dinted my front rim again. That's two rims so far :(

I really need to get the downhill rim I have kicking around spoked in.

I don't think I dinted my front rim hitting a gutter :(

I let the tyre down, straightened the wall back up (whack, whack) - it was bulging outwards.

Pumped up the tyre to 75 PSI again (the only imperial unit I know :shock: ).....and the wall is bent out again.

The rim is failing. I really, really got to get my downhill double wall rim fitted.
 
BiGH said:
ouch that cell is DESTROYED! lol
And what a thing of beauty it is.
 
Mark_A_W said:
I tried upping the amps on mine, by adding some wire to the current bar in the controller, but it's causing BMS cutouts and "fades" where I think the BMS somehow cuts the current back without completely shutting off.


HAHAHA :twisted:

I had a melted/broken connector. Seems the battery and controller are fine. Phew, I wasn't looking forward to replacing the battery!!!
 
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