E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

[Kepler]

I get the same poor attitude from my local bike shop owner. Basically he says they are just gay motorbikes and cant see the point in them. I want to tell him he is an idiot so badly but sometimes but I do sometimes need to get a small bike item quickly and with him being only 5 minute away, no point making life difficult for myself.

He could have had some much more business from me over the years if he wasn't such a d##k.

[Hyena]

Basically he says they are just gay motorbikes

Ha! That's bloody rich coming from a guy that (if he's like 90% of other bike shop workers) shaves his legs and rides around in tight lycra with his bum in the air

[kiqnkf]

Basically he says they are just gay motorbikes

Ha! That's bloody rich coming from a guy that (if he's like 90% of other bike shop workers) shaves his legs and rides around in tight lycra with his bum in the air

You forgot "Following each other with each end at eye level"

[full-throttle]

Saw at least 4 e bikes on the way to work this morning. So it's definitely on the rise. Those bike shops will either change their attitude soon or go out of business. Just like Kodak.

[dave.a]

Could any one post up a link with where to buy the 70A Anderson plugs for the batteries please?
Preferably in the uk or a part number for the plugs. I can only find 50A or 175A connectors.
Im building my lipo pack
Cheers Dave

[adrian_sm]

I have bought Andersons from this mob before.

PP75s
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-power ... 5-amp.html

[dave.a]

Thanks for that, but i really want the match for what is used on the bomber so i can use both packs nice and simple.

[adrian_sm]

They stock all the Anderson connectors, I must have linked to the wrong one apologies. Here is the more complete listing.
http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-power ... pole-sets/

[Cowardlyduck]

Thanks for that, but i really want the match for what is used on the bomber so i can use both packs nice and simple.

Alternative source. Used RS-Online before, they ship very quickly.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/anderson-power/6120065/

This is the same one that's on the Fighter from the look of it. Not sure if the Bomber uses the same one as the Fighter though.

Cheers

[Brute]

Thanks for the info on the sprocket Hyena . Happy I can go & order one . Yes they asked what type of bike it was off & when I mentioned it was an electric bike I definitely noticed a different attitude . Looking at some of the bikes in the shop I was sure they had the same type of sprocket as I was after , but just decided to leave .

[Tench]

I have a couple here Dave that i got to make a shunt calibrating tool for the Bomber, so i could intercept the main power leads and put them through an external shunt and ammeter, if you need some quick you could have these for what i paid for them, or do you want the whole shunt and ammeter assembly?

Give us a call if you do.

Simon.

[dave.a]

Will give you a ring tomorrow simon, cheers mate

[morati]

Been following Stealths progress for a little over a year now and found this forum a couple of weeks ago which was good timing cause I saw my first Stealth at the Toronto International Bicycle Show last weekend. I was originally going to buy an electric motorcycle but this is so much cooler and as all of you already know, it opens up a ton of riding possibilities that you just couldn't do on ANY type of fixed footpeg machine. I used to road race big bore motorcycles awhile back (a long while actually) but for the last ten years have raced MTB XC in the Masters Expert catagory to stay in shape. Always wanted to ride offroad with just a bit more speed however and Stealth bikes are the perfect ticket! I've also been doing some 1/10th and 1/8th scale R/C Buggy racing lately (all e-powered) so this experience should help with whatever model I choose to eventually buy. Its not going to happen soon however (need to save up some cash) but I am serious about getting one at some point and have just listed my Cervelo S3 road bike for sale to help out with the $ a bit. Have already read all 86 pages here and thanks to you fellas I feel like I already know much about the product. If I could choose any configuration of machine, I'd go for the Fighter with a 55a, 75v lipo option. Unfortunately, it isn't offered but I will have some time to decide which model to buy......Awesome Forum and keep up the great work with the vids!
John K.

[Paul_G]

what is the Bomber low volt cut out setting with the stock battery?

70 or 72 volts?

Thanks

[Tench]

I think the battery type has changed since the early bikes, John told me to set mine with the later battery to 69v.

[Justtoby]

what is the Bomber low volt cut out setting with the stock battery?

70 or 72 volts?

Thanks

My battery is a 2011 delivery and is 69v

[Skyline]

what is the Bomber low volt cut out setting with the stock battery?

70 or 72 volts?

Thanks

My battery is a 2011 delivery and is 69v

Hi guys,

just while your on the topic I have a 2012 bomber and the low volt cut out is set to 70v
but I've noticed the battery voltage sag's to 64v -65v even on a fresh battery under heavy acceleration
is this the same on your bikes or should mine be set differently

Thanks

[Hyena]

I'd be worried about a weak cell or 2 skyline if it's dipping that low on a fresh charge.
You have 3 levels of protection, the LVC in the cycle analyst, the LVC in the controller and in the BMS itself. I don't know what the actual BMS trips at but it's usually 2v/cell for lifepo4. For a 24S pack that gives you a theoretical minimum of 48v but you'd never get that low as some cells will always drop off quicker than the others and trigger the LVC. I would have thought a minimum voltage of 60v would be more likely what you'd see, but maybe they're using a different cell count or chemistry. Either way 69v for a 72v pack seems fairly tame but maybe it's to prolong the life of the packs, or leave some reserve. I often set my CA LVC a little higher than it needs to be so if I get carried away and use up too much power without realising I can then pull over and set it a bit lower to 'limp home' on. I think of it like a fuel reserve on a motorbike. You'll know all about it if you have to pedal one of these heavy beasts with no assistance, even sipping 5 amps makes pedalling so much easier.

[Kepler]

Hi guys,

just while your on the topic I have a 2012 bomber and the low volt cut out is set to 70v
but I've noticed the battery voltage sag's to 64v -65v even on a fresh battery under heavy acceleration
is this the same on your bikes or should mine be set differently

Thanks

Doesn't sound right. If the CA is set to 69V or 70V, it will wind off power as it hits this threshold. If you are seeing 64V to 65V under hard accel, then the CA doesn't seem to be doing its thing.

Is this a peak (trough) reading you see recorded in the CA or actually a prolonged condition that you can actually see while the bike under hard accel?

Sometimes you do get unusual peaks or troughs recorded through the CA

[Cowardlyduck]

Whilst were on the topic...what's it meant to be for the Fighter? I've been setting the LVC to between 44 and 48V, but I'm not actually sure what the LVC is set to on the BMS. Anyone know?

Also, won't the pack sag below the LVC on the BMS when under hard acceleration? Or should this never happen?

Cheers

[full-throttle]

BMS would have a LVC for each cell ~2.5V or higher. When it kicks in the power would be lost incl to the dashboard and would need to be powercycled.

The controller has a slightly higher pack-level LVC and the dashboard has an even higher one. None of those need a powercycle.

Not sure about the values.

[Hyena]

Most BMSs dont give you a warning, when they cut out that's it. Some reset when the voltage comes back up (ie from sag under acceleration), some require being physically turned off or unplugged to reset. If you do trip the BMS under hard acceleration you should be able to get a little more range by taking it easy. The BMS really is your last back stop though, depending on how relaxed or generic the controller LVC is. I think crystalyte usually set their controller LVCs at 57v (for the 72v models) - I don't know if stealth change this. When the controller hits LVC it usually tapers right off just before it cuts out - so giving full throttle will see the bike only slowly rolling along and then cuts out all together. The CA cut out is the same, and dials back the current to maintain the LVC voltage until the battery is drained to the point where the resting voltage is the set LVC or breathing on the throttle drops it below. So yeah, properly set up CA and controller LVCs should give you a soft warning before the BMS trips. If the BMS trips because a cell goes bad you won't get this soft warning as the overall voltage may be somewhat maintained.

edit: yeah what full throttle said while I was typing

[Cowardlyduck]

Thanks guy's. Yeah I get most of this. Mainly since my first battery slowly went bad and was cutting out on the BMS at lower and lower AH each time, but I never really paid attention to what that voltage was.
Just need to know what the Controller/BMS LVC is so I can set my CA appropriately and not have to pedal home with no power...again. I swear I've pushed this beast home at least a dozen times now. Getting mighty sick of it.
I think John may have told me the BMS LVC before, but I can't remember. I'll stick with 48V for now and see how I go.

Cheers

[remf]

Set it at 36V - no more pushing hopefully!

[Cowardlyduck]

Set it at 36V - no more pushing hopefully!

Huh? 36V. Do you mean 46V.

I'm pretty sure I remember the BMS cutting out before 46V though. Maybe that was just the bad battery though. Will see how I go.

Cheers