


tonyontopofabighill wrote:G'day Drekkus,
That is all in the past now. The first thing I did was to change the controller and get a throttle.I kept the original battery and used this system for about 2 years. It worked much better than the standard set up but in the end the battery got a bit tired so I made the change just recently to the LIPO battery. Wow! what a difference! The bike is now great fun to ride and I look forward to every outing.
Cheers,
Tony.


tonyontopofabighill wrote:G'day Drekkus,
I'll let the other guys fill you in on the electrics side of things. i just followed what the others have done with the batteries,controller etc.I have got a twist grip throttle like a motorcycle and it is the same as on a motorcycle, it is on the right side of the handlebars.
If you look through the posts you will see how Samd has worked out how to use the original battery box. i have done this and it works a treat.Hopefully you will get your battery going and you may not have to do any mods to your bike.
Cheers,
Tony.
PS I was going to get the bike you got off ebay if you had not bid on it.I had been in contact with the seller and they were going to bring it to NSW on their next caravaning trip.I am glad someone on here got it in the end.






drekkus wrote:I've noticed that most are going for 36v over 24v LiPo. Whats the advantage of this ? Anything really wrong with staying 24v ? I've looked at these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... 0C%5F.html
which whilst only 24v seem to be a good fit for the battery box without too much hacking being needed. Anyone see any problem with 2 of these in parallel .
samd wrote:...
And most 24v controllers will cut out at 21.5 volts, so you will not get to use all your amp hrs
...


gtadmin wrote:drekkus wrote:I've noticed that most are going for 36v over 24v LiPo. Whats the advantage of this ? Anything really wrong with staying 24v ? I've looked at these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... 0C%5F.html
which whilst only 24v seem to be a good fit for the battery box without too much hacking being needed. Anyone see any problem with 2 of these in parallel .
Hi drekkus, welcome to the aussie Aprilia owners clubWhere do you hail from mate?
It depends on whether you are going to ride the bike at 50km/h everywhere or not! If that's the speed you want, then 8S is the way to go. If not, then 6S will get you about 38 tops. If this is ok, then I don't see the problem.samd wrote:...
And most 24v controllers will cut out at 21.5 volts, so you will not get to use all your amp hrs
...
21.5 ÷ 6 = 3.58V While you CAN run these cells lower, why would you want to? And the packs drekkus has linked to are 8Ah, so 16Ah for 2 in parallel for a safe range of 30km
Cheers guys,
GT

drekkus wrote:Still no joy with the battery. Charges up for about an hour and half but just dies very quickly when in use. Looks like the the LiPo option is becoming the way to go. I have opened up the battery case and all the wires look good.
As for the throttle I guess I can just buy one and see which way fits best for me.Its not as if they are expensive.

Hillhater wrote:drekkus wrote:Still no joy with the battery. Charges up for about an hour and half but just dies very quickly when in use. Looks like the the LiPo option is becoming the way to go. I have opened up the battery case and all the wires look good.
As for the throttle I guess I can just buy one and see which way fits best for me.Its not as if they are expensive.
did you check individual cell voltages ?
I am guessing there is a lot of variation in their state of charge and will need individual balancing. That should "rejuvinate" these NiMh cells. ..they take a lot of abuse before they are useless !!
Oh, i would suggest you dump the controller and "pedelec" / torque sensor systems first. You would be surprised how much more performance there is when all those are eliminated ...even with 24 volts![]()
Lipo is great ( 40+v), but you will not be able to... "plug and forget" ... charge like you can with the original NiMh pack.


Hillhater wrote:No need to separate or unsolder the cells , just need to peel enough plastic rap off at the cell joints so you can poke a metal probe in to check voltage, & balance etc.
Start by checking each "stick" of 5 cells to track down the worst cells, then narrow it down to individual cells.
You will need a single cell charger to boost the lowest ones.
A 24v /36v controller is <$20 ..go for it !



Hillhater wrote:With the stock controller and 24v battery, i doubt the motor should ever get hot...warm at best.
Running 1200W through mine and the motor is never more than just warm.
PS: ..after i "revived" my stock NiMh pack, i could get over 20km from it.


tonyontopofabighill wrote:G'day Drekkus,
I live on a big mutha of a hill and that is what I face on my return journey. As I said earlier I have got the new lipo set up and my motor gets quite hot and I guess it is because I go for a really quick ride of about 20 klms return and I really ride hard so I am using full throttle most of the time as well.I have been doing that now for a while on both of my bikes and everything seems okay.They don't seem to mind getting hot. As I also said these bikes are useless if the battery goes flat.I have pushed my home on the old NMH batteries on several occasions.I found a trick was to use the throttle (which you don't have yet) to make it easier to push up hills as there always seemed to be enough power left in the battery for this task.A word of warning though, I was getting quite fit when I had the NMH setup as I had to work harder.Now with the lipo's I tend to use the power most of the time and the waist line is increasing again.
Cheers,
Tony.

Samd wrote:Because if he uses a 6s cell on a 21.5 volt cutout (could be as low as 21.0V based on the stated tolerance) he will take his packs below 3.7volts and they either won't last, or cook his balls. Or both.
drekkus wrote:...
The bike is primarily not for me. 50kmh would be far too fast for the intended users, even I would baulk at those speeds on a bike. About half the intended route is dirt roads so speed isn't the big concern. Anything around the 20-30kmh would be fine. Its range which is important as its a 15km round trip which may become more in the future. I can hear the complaints now if it died on the way home
I know what you're saying about the cut out being potentially a bit too low but don't you still get the same problem with the 36v packs. You will always have to monitor things to be safe.
The other thing that attracts me to the 24v packs I've linked to is that they look like they would be a snug fit in the battery box with only minimal filing out. I could do some hacking to fit different batteries but at this stage I rather avoid it to keep the peace.


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