adrian_sm wrote:Interesting. I need to think about this a bit, and sketch up a few ideas on end caps and mounting. If I come up with something good I'll be in.
Are you flexible in the lengths? Or will they all be pre-cut to length for you?
Yep I thought of something like that but though it'd end up more expensive to have something machined / CNCd and end up costing just as much as the length of the tube itself which people wouldn't be happy with. I'd even be happy with plastic plugs if something the exact size was available.Some of the ideas I have in mind have thicker endplates recessesed in to the tube ends, with CSK screws through the tube wall securing them. This would require the tube to be a bit longer than 310mm.
What sort of internl/external radius will the corners have?
nonlineartom wrote:Would there be enough room to fit something like a parallel port for balancing?
Glenn_M wrote:Jay - put me down for one length 12s
Exactly what I am after.
adrian_sm wrote:A place like Eplas, will cut sheet plastic stock to size for you for a pretty reasonable price. Then you could router four corners to match internal rads. Then let people drill their own holes, but supply the correct thread forming screws to secure the end caps in place.
The controller style end plates rely on the more complex extrusion dies that have the screw holes extruded in place. This would up the ante on MOQ to pay off the die. So you would be up for probably a hundred meters to make it worth while, which will blow it out of the water most likely.
I couldn't quite visualise your glue nut in tube concept. Wouldn't the nut get in the way of removing the LiPos?
Be careful cutting it too short (i.e 1mm lengths), you will end up wasting a greater percentage of the lengths. Best would be to firm up the end plate design, and get them to cut to size and deliver. But if you have to do custom lenths, get the stock in the longest lengths that you can handle/store/cut easily.
Did you have an idea of how to mount the tube to bike? We might be able to incorporate some features in the end plates to make life easy with a bit of thought.
I'll try to find some time tomorrow to doodle something up and post.
adrian_sm wrote:Is that the actual pipes in the image ???
chroot wrote:Look like heavy aluminum box. I'll stick with ultra light weight fiberglass battery case.
Glenn_M wrote: I'm planning to machine some from ABS.
Hyena wrote:Glenn_M wrote: I'm planning to machine some from ABS.
Have you got the gear to do it yourself or know someone ?
Care to share with the class ?
Glenn_M wrote:No - I haven't got the gear to do it but I do have some gear (router, mini lathe, drill press, files, sanders & beer). Always willing to have a crack anyway
teklektik wrote:Tapped threads in plastic are workable do not generally hold up well for repeated use - particularly for fine threads like M4.
Also - not sure if it was just for reference or not, but the Centronics connector you showed was for PCB mounting - you need solder cup pins.
adrian_sm wrote:Count me out Jay. Sorry, I just couldn't get a design in my mind that suited my needs.
Come to think of it, I would be tempted to not mount the discharge connectors on the end cap either, rather just have a sort cable. Much easier to seal on the wires.
Hyena wrote:I like them as they're easier to connect and disconnect in terms force and there's slightly less chance of shorting the pins than with DB plugs.
With a 36 pin connector you can also parallel the main -ve and +ve leads from each pack to a few pins to potentially charge at up to 15 amps through that connector.
RallySTX wrote: You're talking about aluminum tubes that hold two 6S packs, side by side right? You also mean these tubes can come long enough to hold multiples of pairs right?
I'm gonna need 13 of them.
All single pack length tubes, prefferably with ends that have andersons.
Gotta get at least ten
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