cheap 24v/48v brushed controller rec

[bgnome]

I have been scratching my head over the past couple days trying to figure this out. I am trying to find a cheap drop-in upgrade for my wife's Currie Ezip. I have 2 of the 24v SLA battery packs and have figured out how to rewire the switch so I can parallel them, but I would also like to run them in series for a temporary "overdrive." I do not want to run more than 20A continuous as I really do not want to do an active cooling mod and risk exposing the motor internals. I suspect these batteries would not handle much more anyway.

I have been having a hard time as info on brushed controllers seems to be increasingly scarce. I do not know whether I should try and get a 24v controller and hope that 48v would work or get a 36v/48c controller and modify the LVC. I am not looking to spend more than around $50 as I know these brushed controllers are supposed to be cheap. I have seen the yiyun yk43/yk43b but they put out too many amps. I do not have a cycle analyst and really can't afford such an expensive toy, especially for the wife's bike, but if there is a cheap way to limit current to the motor I would consider that. There is a kelly controller that would work, KDS48050E, but not out of the box, so with programmer and a cable I am looking at $100+ already.

[dogman]

Only 24v-48v controller I have any experience with came with the old Wilderness Energy brushed motor kits.

You'll have to scour the internet to find somebody still holding stock in those controllers. I dimly remember a place called Java Cycles that had brushes. They might have a controller still. Another place was called campsolutions. Or camp solutions. I don't recall which spelling was the place that sold WE/ aotema brushed kits. A few others, I don't recall the names.

The WE controller might be too high amps. They called it a 35 amp, but I think it was more like 25. (lied about everything) But it worked fine from 24v to 48v.

[bgnome]

Only 24v-48v controller I have any experience with came with the old Wilderness Energy brushed motor kits.

You'll have to scour the internet to find somebody still holding stock in those controllers. I dimly remember a place called Java Cycles that had brushes. They might have a controller still. Another place was called campsolutions. Or camp solutions. I don't recall which spelling was the place that sold WE/ aotema brushed kits. A few others, I don't recall the names.

The WE controller might be too high amps. They called it a 35 amp, but I think it was more like 25. (lied about everything) But it worked fine from 24v to 48v.

found one listed at java cycles:
http://javacycles.com/categories/34/products/118
$114 is a bit too much though..

[dumbass]

When you say 20a are you talking at 48v? A 48v 20a controller maybe hard to find. I am finishing a setup right now using a 48v 50a controller on an EZip 24v motor setup (wish me luck). I should have it running and tested within a week or 2. But I will control my throttle to avoid over heating the motor. I am going to install a temp gauge on the handlebar that has an external proble. The proble I am going to clamp to the motor to monitor over heating. You can buy these for $15 to $20.

Look at these controllers they may be what your looking for. I bought mine from TNC and used it all last year and it worked great and the service was very good as well.

Bob

PS: Be sure you get a brushed motor controller!!

http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route= ... path=41_75
http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/48vo50unvosp.html
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/spe ... 8volt.html

[bgnome]

You are a braver man than I! I just got the idea from MaterTB on youtube, as posted previously, about running at 48V and saying that 900W was about the max the motor would run at without frying. I figure if the controller runs at 20A, that would be fine at 24V for the extended range. I want to minimize any visible fiddling with her bike as she is already a bit annoyed with me tinkering on mine..

i have been all over the tnc scooters stuff, but like I said, I am stuck on whether going with a 24V brushed controller that hopefully has the cap/fets to handle 48V, or getting a higher voltage controller and modifying the LVC. Both of which I am confident I can accomplish, as long as I do not have to do my own guesswork on the board.. this is why I am seeking specific reccomendations on controllers.

[dumbass]

OK, on your wife's bike your looking for a 20a 24v controller. But the stock controller from EZip is a 24v 35a controller. So this idea is not gaining anything except maybe range. But if your intent is to just extend the range then tell her to get off the throttle. It's the same thing and no cost. Or you can install a resister on the hall wire so it will limit her throttle response. She won't know anything exceptthe bike won't go s fast.

If your speaking of the guy that was on YouTube offering a 48v controller conversion kit for the EZip all he is doing is selling a cheap 48v controller and installing a verible resister (pot) in the hall return (control) wire. I've spoken to a guy on the phone who ordered this conversion. Based on his comments it was a really crap controller and he could never get it to work and the seller basically said "buyer beware"..........I told him to dispute the credit card charge.

I'm going with the 48v because I was using it last year on a twin motor setup wired in series. So when started building this bike I decided to use the 48v controller and add a temp meter on the motor to monitor the heat. It's the heat that is going to fry the motor so I figured if I monitored it I'd be ok. Beside, I have a few spare EZip motors and controllers so if I fry a motor it's no biggy for me.

Bob

[dogman]

Yeah, not cheap. Only one I recall seeing that definitely has the 24v lvc, and 60v cap allowing 48v. Campsolutions was the guys that had em cheap. Looks like they sold out the brushed junk. I only see brushless controllers there now.

[bgnome]

I doubt the stock controller is pulling 35A continuous from the SLAs, but if it was, that is 840W which confirms the "safe-ish" limit of 900W. Two Ezip SLA packs is a lot of weight so I figure I should get some use out of them. I have no idea what the actual output of the currie controller is, but I figure 20A at 24V gives me 480W and at 48V I get 960W. Conservative use should allow this to work I think.

Ecrazyman has offered me a 48V 800W controller at $45 shipped. I think I will bite on this one and ask for the LVC to be lowered to 21V for the normal 24V usage.

[dumbass]

I doubt the stock controller is pulling 35A continuous from the SLAs, but if it was, that is 840W which confirms the "safe-ish" limit of 900W. Two Ezip SLA packs is a lot of weight so I figure I should get some use out of them. I have no idea what the actual output of the currie controller is, but I figure 20A at 24V gives me 480W and at 48V I get 960W. Conservative use should allow this to work I think.

Ecrazyman has offered me a 48V 800W controller at $45 shipped. I think I will bite on this one and ask for the LVC to be lowered to 21V for the normal 24V usage.

I agree with the stock lead packs can not deliver the 35a for the controller to reach it's capasity. I was just making the point that changing to a 24v 20a controller really isn't going to change anything. Especially with those lead packs.

You may want to consider a low cost meter to monitor your packs when your running on 48v.

Bob

[august23]

If you want to just overvolt your ezip... I wouldn't recommend going over 36v. I did it to mine (24v upped to 36v). all I did was add another battery... thats it. any throttle action over 2600rpms causes the motor to thump and jump loudly because it starts to reach the mechanical limitations of the timing. but if you keep it full throttle, it'll keep going with no problems. if you need to slow down, you have to slow down below 2600rpms to start accelerating again, else it makes that aweful noise. but be warned... mine goes 24-25mph.... pretty fast for those scooters. and 2 brakes is recommended. I eventually bought a 36v controller from TNC scooter parts online... and honestly... that IS your cheapest option... next to just adding a battery.

Im not really picturing your wife dealing with the 'slow down before you speed back up' thing very well. I wouldn't ask my girl friend to ride it... lol.. at least not without some serious safety gear.
ebay often times has good prices on the controllers. infact I think TNC scooters has a cheaper price on ebay then they do on their site (if memory serves me correctly).

good luck!

ps 36vx30a (1080w) brushed controller (like the one I bought) is plenty for any XYD-6B size motor.... you risk melting it otherwise. btw my XYD-6B motor has the 450w rating on the sticker and is using a 15t freewheel sprocket (8mm bore w/10mm collar).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330430524230?ss ... 107wt_1166

[dumbass]

august23...Wow, one of us is really confused. I'm assuming that bgnome is talking about a Currie EZip bicycle and your thinking about one of those little motorized scooters.

The EZip bike has a gearhead motor on them. And while I would never recommend riding an EZip hardtail bike over 25mph there are people doing 30+ with them.

The reason for 48v is because the bike is setup to except 2 24v packs which he already has. But I agree that actually pushing 48v through one motor is to much. Which I recommend a resistor pot on the hall to act as a governor that can be set to any limet you want.

Bob

[august23]

august23...Wow, one of us is really confused. I'm assuming that bgnome is talking about a Currie EZip bicycle and your thinking about one of those little motorized scooters.

The EZip bike has a gearhead motor on them. And while I would never recommend riding an EZip hardtail bike over 25mph there are people doing 30+ with them.

The reason for 48v is because the bike is setup to except 2 24v packs which he already has. But I agree that actually pushing 48v through one motor is to much. Which I recommend a resistor pot on the hall to act as a governor that can be set to any limet you want.

Bob

oh yeah I always forget that Currie has Ezip and Izip scooters AND bikes. 25+ on a bike is fine... the scooter is a crazy though.... like me. Gearhead eh? I'll have to look those up.

[dumbass]

oh yeah I always forget that Currie has Ezip and Izip scooters AND bikes. 25+ on a bike is fine... the scooter is a crazy though.... like me. Gearhead eh? I'll have to look those up.[/quote]

The Currie gearhead will not direct fit on a scooter.

[august23]

oh yeah I always forget that Currie has Ezip and Izip scooters AND bikes. 25+ on a bike is fine... the scooter is a crazy though.... like me. Gearhead eh? I'll have to look those up.

The Currie gearhead will not direct fit on a scooter.[/quote]

No I realize thats not likely to fit right out of the box. My scooter currently has a 24v BMC/MAC 600w motor originally from a Synergy e-bike. Now it's running reversed at 36v x 45amp (1600w). So im looking for other possible motor mods I can do from the e-bike world... or visa versa.

[bgnome]

Thanks for the input guys.

I think this mod is going to sit on the back burner for a while. Keywinn has not gotten back to me in a few days, so I looked in the controller and found the 63V caps and 2 pairs of fets: one pair are IRF 3205s and the others say F1 H33, but I can't get any info on those. I have not been able to scrounge up much info on this particular controller (does not look like the old ananda), but I will keep looking.

[august23]

Thanks for the input guys.

I think this mod is going to sit on the back burner for a while. Keywinn has not gotten back to me in a few days, so I looked in the controller and found the 63V caps and 2 pairs of fets: one pair are IRF 3205s and the others say F1 H33, but I can't get any info on those. I have not been able to scrounge up much info on this particular controller (does not look like the old ananda), but I will keep looking.

another thing to consider when over volting a motor is the efficiency loss. most motors are rated by their peak efficiency.... and giving it more juice brings down the efficiency. the best hands on way to know if your loosing efficiency is if the motor is running hot or not. the loss of overall power outside that of forward motion is in the form of heat. the more heat, the less efficient it's running.

[Dauntless]

I've patched up enough of those Curries in the last few years, this should be up my alley. It was mentioned they were confused on if this was a scooter or a bike, you didn't respond to that. I suddenly realized I've never seen the separate part for the controller on the bike, maybe it's inside the batterpack, I'm not sure. I went and looked mine with the conversion kit over, no sign of it. But since you have the controller in your hand I'll assume it is the scooter.

First of all, my best guess is you should just put the 36v Currie controller on it. Look how cheap, although darn, out of stock at the moment. https://www.curriestore.com/product/eZi ... oller/491/ It's for the 1,000 watt bike. There is even cheaper stuff at Scooterparts4less.com, etc, (Bring your own wiring diagram) but I'm holding what is probably the identical controller to yours in my hand and looking at the pic of the 36v Currie to see a match for every plug on this controller. (And then some.) However, look for a 5 or 6 pin throttle plug on yours, the 36v says it's a 5 pin. 6 would mean you need another throttle. But here it is WITH the throttle. http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/curr ... ottle.html

Just remember, they SAY they should work, but sometimes you find yourself having to rewire. http://electricscooterparts.com/hookup/ ... wiring.htm

Now, about those batteries. Are you SURE you don't have a pair of 12v, 10 amp batteries? That is what I expect to find in any 24v Currie system, haven't seen anything different yet. I think you're already getting all the voltage they can give at 24v. To go 36v, (As others mentioned, really as far as you want to go) you need one more cell, I recommend you replace all 3 at once because mismatched cells destroy each other quickly. You'll also need a new charger. http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/scsts1elscba.html

I ran 36v on the S350 with not much of a shunt mod (Extra wire soldered onto the arch you'll see if you open your controller) and I guess the way to put it is my inadequate little scooter became less inadequate. She's have to say for herself if she's happy with it that way. Of course I'm the kind of guy who rides these things after he puts meathooks on them and gets going 45mph downhill. I should do something about the brakes, etc. I should guess a bigger controller would accomplish more than a shunt mod, but only one way to find out. I thought the motor got pretty danged hot before, not sure it's worse now. But I don't really run it CONTINOUS when I ride, I get to speed, coast, etc. No suspension, not much brakes, I guess it's not good to put too much into upgrading this thing. Next time I have a 36v to fix I'll try the controller on it.

[bgnome]

I apologize if it was not clear, but the wife is riding a circa 2007 Currie Ezip Trails, same model as seen here:
http://gokartsusa.com/eziptrailzelectricbicycle-2.aspx

This takes the rack-mount type batteries. The rack is a custom piece that houses the controller and wiring harness, as well as a DPDT switch to select which battery pack. I have used the conversion kits and thus have 2 fairly new SLA batery packs which are rated 24V 10AH each. I plan on rewiring the switch to operate parallel/series. She is likely only going to use it with 1 battery for her own recreational purposes due to weight, but I would like to make the upgrade so that I could use it for longer distance commuting, but I want to make sure that she can still use it the same way with minimal aesthetic changes.

I will take more pics of the controller when I attempt this mod in earnest. It is not the current potted controller that they sell in the conversion kits, although it is the same 5 wire throttle. I currently have it swapped in to my Terratrike Path with the Currie conversion on it and a 24V Ping, while she is running the modern controller. It is not potted at all, has 4 fets, and the brake cutoff. The sticker is mislabeled as brushless, as it definitely runs my DC brushed motor, which is wired in reverse.

It is not the Ananda described here:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=831

Stock Wiring Diagram for Bike:
http://www.currietech.com/dealers/wiki/index.php?title=File:Wiring_Diagram_-_RMB_with_SLA_Batteries_Bikes_(2008_USA).png

[august23]

I apologize if it was not clear, but the wife is riding a circa 2007 Currie Ezip Trails, same model as seen here:
http://gokartsusa.com/eziptrailzelectricbicycle-2.aspx

This takes the rack-mount type batteries. The rack is a custom piece that houses the controller and wiring harness, as well as a DPDT switch to select which battery pack. I have used the conversion kits and thus have 2 fairly new SLA batery packs which are rated 24V 10AH each. I plan on rewiring the switch to operate parallel/series. She is likely only going to use it with 1 battery for her own recreational purposes due to weight, but I would like to make the upgrade so that I could use it for longer distance commuting, but I want to make sure that she can still use it the same way with minimal aesthetic changes.

I will take more pics of the controller when I attempt this mod in earnest. It is not the current potted controller that they sell in the conversion kits, although it is the same 5 wire throttle. I currently have it swapped in to my Terratrike Path with the Currie conversion on it and a 24V Ping, while she is running the modern controller. It is not potted at all, has 4 fets, and the brake cutoff. The sticker is mislabeled as brushless, as it definitely runs my DC brushed motor, which is wired in reverse.

It is not the Ananda described here:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=831

Stock Wiring Diagram for Bike:
http://www.currietech.com/dealers/wiki/index.php?title=File:Wiring_Diagram_-_RMB_with_SLA_Batteries_Bikes_(2008_USA).png

is this your motor? https://www.curriestore.com/product/eZi ... Motor/459/
you better test this setup with WOT (wide open throttle) and no load before you get the 36v controller. watch and listen to the motor at high speeds. make sure the wheel doesn't follow suit with the motor when/if it decides to 'mis-fire'. . and like i said before, you have to be careful how you use the throttle at high speeds else the motor gets confused and tries to reverse or stop (creates very loud thumbing/banging noises every couple of seconds). I can't imaging what would happen if I didn't have a freewheel setup. direct drive could be sketchy when it skips a beat.

I guarantee you dont want to run it at 48v... it wont last 10 min. and like the previous guy said... no continuous usage at 36v.
In the land of currie, anything above 36v is nonexistent.... no xlr chargers, no fitted controllers. the basic rule of thumb with these motors is amps= torque and volts =speed. these motors can easily handle the extra voltage, just not the extra amps. which means, under heavy load conditions, hills, continuous over speeding, the motor heats up quickly. when I added one battery to my setup w/o upgrading the stock 24v/20a controller, I noticed a serious speed increase (from 16mpg to 24mph), and a noticeable torque increase on hills (I didn't test anything longer than one block uphill to be sure not to burn it out). Then, after a week, I got a new 36v 30a brushed controller.... no change in speed (still 24mph), and only a slight increase in torque... maybe 7-8%. Then I got a BMC brushless motor and 36v/45amp Lynn brushless controller... and now it simply halls ass. 29mph on flat and 20mph uphill.... after 20 min of continuous use... the motor is STILL COLD!!!

you can run the batteries in parallel, but I dont recommend charging them in parallel.



here is the cheapest contoller you'll find pre-wired for your setup.
45.50 w/shipping (he sells a 5 pin version too)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-36-Volt-Con ... 221wt_1166