




Wizzbit wrote:Tony, the maintenance and noise issues are a downer, stealthier the better and I'm no mechanic,
from your ears how loud is it? Im hoping Drunkskunk has highly sensetive ears![]()
Drunkskunk, damn man, cant have my hand getting embarrassed!
Tony's cyclone set up looks smart enough to me, I have a similar style bike, the noise bit does put me off though.
As for the ebay one, I didnt win no poker recently, so deleted from options it is, which brings new questions![]()
What are the best options for hub kits?
I looked at the hs3540 and the price seems ok, problem is I'm cautious to order from U.S due to customs charge, (Asia stuff seems to come through ok) (Im in U.k)
So Im still leaning towards the cyclone but if you can recommend a hub kit that would suit?
Thanks again.

neptronix wrote:Cyclones are known to be really unreliable.
So is anything that is related to batteries from bmsbattery.
The ping battery is definitely a quality buy.
The eBay kit might be allright. But it's very possible that it comes with a crap rim / spoke setup which ends up costing you more $.
For cheap DD hub kits, i recommend cell_man's MXUS kit.
tony67 wrote:
I should note that my setup is the single chain wheel cyclone so allows for the motor to be mounted under the BB which to me and most people I encounter is perfectly stealthy. The triple chain wheel kit you linked to needs the motor to be mounted in the downtube and so can look a bit agricultural. TBH the triple chain wheel is not necessary unless you want to climb vertical walls. On the 1200w cyclone a 48t chainring together with a 28t-14t freewheel will easily cover any situation. If you want stealth I'd prob opt for lipo as opposed to lifepo4. The light weight means it'll happily sit in a rear bag. I had to move my headway pack from the rack to the current location because it was too heavy out the back.
Noise with the cyclone is an issue unfortunately, any geared motor is going to emit noise. I've reduced the noise of mine by adding oil to the gear box grease, however it doesn't come close to being as quiet as a dd hub and never will. I reduce the noise further by switching to a lower gear (therefore slowing the motor down) and pedalling, reducing the load on the motor. If I run it in 2nd gear with no pedalling she's a howler.
I cannot speak with any authority on hub motors, I only know what I've read as I have no experience with them. I will say the hs3540 has a good reputation and I am considering one for the future to complement my cyclone. You can buy from within Europe therefore avoiding the unknown duty from http://www.crystalyte-europe.com/home.php.
Tony
PS the 1200 watt figure is nominal, my watt meter peaks at 1900watts under acceleration with the standard controller.





dogman wrote:The cyclone is not so unreliable as the rider. Really common for folks to murder them by riding around in too high a gear all day. Too tall geared up the hill will croak any motor.
Suggesting a good compromise between cyclone and dd hubmotor. the 8t Mac from Emissions Free. Good climbing, not excessivly noisy, and not crazy expensive. VERY trusted vendor. Just slow if you choose cheap slow shipping to shave a buck. At 48v, you won't quite reach 30 mph with that winding, but it's a great entry motor into ebiking.
Later on, you'll want to join the 40 mph club, but do that with a dd motor and the lessons you learned at 25 mph.
dogman wrote:Papasan's not on our trusted vendor list yet. So do the standard thing, cut any kind of claims for speed and range in half, or more. The battery may not even be a ping. "just like a ping maybe" yeah right.
Somebody needs to guinea pig this kit for us, review it, and tell all the truth about it. It could be a great deal on a kit with a real pingbattery. But it takes more than he says so on an internet ad to get on the ES trusted vendor list.


Wizzbit wrote:...
I look at this more as a one time investment, I wont want to spend any more money on the bike for a loong time after this, ...



MadRhino wrote:
The only way to come close to that requirement, is to copy one of the builds that is well documented here on the sphere, and that meets your target performance...
d8veh wrote:If you're in te UK, it's guaranteed that you'll pay duty on stuff from the US. It's about 50% chance you get caught from China. You need to think about the legal situation: Stealth is important, and that means not doing 30mph without looking like you're pedalling very hard. If you have an accident, you will automatically be to blame and you'll be done for no insurance, tax and MOT plus a few other offences. If I were you, I'd aim for about 23mph, which isn't so noticeable The police are gradually wising up on ebikes, so be careful. For 20-25mph and good hill-climbing, the Bafang BPM or the MAC would be the ones I'd choose. Unfortunately BMS battery only do the BPM in 201 0r 393rpm, so you'd have to find another supplier, but Cell--man does the MAC in all speed variants. If you buy from him it makes sence to get one of his A123 batteries at ther same time. There's another option in direct drives from a UK supplier and that's the Xipii kit from http://www.Xipi.com. I'm sure he can sort you out something.
tony67 wrote:As has been said I wouldn't be too obsessed with top speed. You'll find you'll spend most of your time doing fast bicycle speeds, between 20-30 mph any faster and the eye is on you too much. Also bicycles have a tendency to become less stable to rapid changes of direction above 25mph. The light weight, steering geometry and less than rigid frame/wheels all produce a loose sensation. The hs3540 figure of 40kph is based on 36v. If you increase to 48v like you intend to, you should be able to nudge 50kph and to start off with that really is fast enough.
If in future you feel the need for more speed just add battery voltage 72v on a hs3540 has yielded some impressive results. Just remember when buying a controller leave room for upgrading. Lyen does some high performance units capable of reprogramming.
Tony




tony67 wrote:You can buy all the components separately on the europe site however they are not the cheapest people to buy from. If i were you I'd buy the motor laced into a wheel from them. Then get onto Lyen for a controller keeping in mind possible future upgrades. I got his 12 fet extreme modder controller a while back which is supposed to be good. I've yet to fit it though. While your on to him get him to send you a throttle, full or half twist. IMO avoid thumb throttles. Get a few bags of anderson power poles and replace everything with these. At this point your bike is pretty much done.
The battery is a huge area that deserves its own discussion but the ping is known as a good battery if a little sensitive to high C rate discharge. I have no experience with them so cannot advise on them.
Lipo is the big thing at the moment, a little complex to set up and maintain but capable of huge discharge currents. Lifespan seems short compared to lifepo4.
Headway is what i have. It is lifepo4 like ping but is claimed capable of 10C burst. That is almost definitely optimistic. I put mine under burst loads of 4C and continuous 1-2C. I am confident of seeing 1000+ cycles out of this pack. I charge to 90-95% and discharge to no lower than 20% (usually far less) and manually balance every month or so to keep things even.
If you buy a ready made ping battery you will get a great product however you will pay a premium over what you can build yourself. You may also struggle to get 10-15ah capable of more than 30 amp current. By researching and building yourself from local supplies be it lipo/lifepo4, you could cut your bill almost in half or get twice the battery capacity for the same money.
To put that into perspective I built my 10ah headway for well under £300 sterling. I'm pretty sure you wont buy and import a 10ah lifepo4 pack for under £500. The question you need to ask is can you build and maintain a pack? If so, the answer seems clear, if not, the answer seems equally clear.
Good luck
Tony
tuxman wrote:Hello and Welcome
Cyclone= Not suggested.
Hub DD= ideal when combined with a high voltage, high amperage setup. Feels more like a motorcycle.
Hub GD= ideal for low voltage, low amperage requirements. Pedal assist on hills. Feels more like a bicycle.
Suggest: Geared hub motor rear wheel drive
Suggest: minimum 10ah 36v batteries
Suggest: minimum 25a controller
I would recommend reading:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26488
viewforum.php?f=28
viewforum.php?f=4
And try:
search.php
dogman wrote:Good to know the ping in the papa kit is legit. I hadn't visited pings website main page in quite a while, since the ping I have may last another 3 years or so.
In the past, Li Ping has had lots of trouble weeding out the bogus vendors from ebay, claiming to sell a pingbattery.
Knowing that you get a real ping, I can now put papa onto the list to offer europeans a place to buy in continent.
The downside, looking at that kit some more, is that the motor uses a screw on threaded disk mount. Obosolete now, and always was a pain to get things to line up. The motor often had a funky dish to it, which is gone with the latest bolt on disk rear motor designs.
So it fails the test if you have disk brakes.

tony67 wrote:You can buy all the components separately on the europe site however they are not the cheapest people to buy from. If i were you I'd buy the motor laced into a wheel from them. Then get onto Lyen for a controller keeping in mind possible future upgrades. I got his 12 fet extreme modder controller a while back which is supposed to be good. I've yet to fit it though. While your on to him get him to send you a throttle, full or half twist. IMO avoid thumb throttles. Get a few bags of anderson power poles and replace everything with these. At this point your bike is pretty much done.


teacherphilenglish wrote:I have cyclone 960, GM 901, 902 and Magic Pie 3
I recommend the Magic Pie 3 hands down. $400, climbs good, very efficient, doesn't shut off after 2 min of non use (like cyclone) and doesn't care about water and snow.
I have a ping 36v20ah and it goes 50km road with hills, 60km road no hills, 15km+ steep climbing trail.
GM batteries are cheaper and have a case, but the small batteries have huge, heavy cases so ping is better for small batteries.


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