While digging out more packing material to ship something (still not quite enough, gotta salvage more from work's incoming shipments), and then for parts for a slap-together loaner pedal-bike for a coworker that hasn't any other transportation right now, I got motivated to clean up the Fusin with the metal bits in it, and get it's clutch off, then use the one off the 48V version in it, and see if I could get DGA up and running again.
Getting the clutch off was tough; I basically took three flatblade screwdrivers and wiggled one at a time under the pinion for each gear, trying not to pry on the gears but rather on the mounting points for them. This eventually let me get the whole thing off, and then I was able to soap it up and wash the metal-contaminated grease off of it. While I was doing that I found one of the teeth on one gear is gone missing. It is not in teh grease, on the floor, in the water, or in the motor. So I dunno where it went or when.
Pics later, I forgot to take them before I sat down to rest and eat and type this.
Once the clutch was off, cleaning the motor itself was easier, as it did not have much grease on it to hold the aluminum dust and filings on, so I could easily blow it out with the compressor after wiping the little grease off the sun gear.
Cleaning out the hub case and ring gear was easy--a little soap and an old toothbrush for the gear teeth, the rest had nothing to clean off.
Once that was all dry, I used a dab of rubber cement (can't find any other potential sealant; the automotive silicone was hardened in the tube) on the lip of the covers and the matching face of the hub case, and bolted that down on there tightly. I also added some to the wire bundle where it goes thru the axle, inside and out, and also on the wires themselves where they exit the bundle housing, and then on the exposed ends of the wires where the insulation ends. It won't stop everything, but it should help, right?
I let that dry for an hour or so, did a second coat, and another hour dry time, while i finished up the coworker's loaner bike. Another dab on the axle of the motro and on the ID of the bearing, and slid them together. Hopefully it will at least help keep the ATF from leaking thru there.
After that, I laid out a towel, put the motor wheel wire-axle down, (this is the already-closed side), and started pouring in ATF, from a bottle I got in a box of Freecycled stuff.
I meant to take a picture of it once filled as far as I could judge would be just less than half, but right about then it started practically dribbling out of the axle, despite my "sealant" efforts (probably just dissolved in the ATF).
I quickly dabbed RC on the other cover edges , axle, and bearing ID, and bolted it down, while holding the wheel as far tilted as I could without spilling ATF out the being-bolted-down side. I figure at least 3-4 capfuls (a lot!) of ATF came out the axle while I was doing all this.
I tilted the wheel onto this side now, and waited, but no leaks came out of this side. So it isn't apparently leaking out the bearing itself, but rather just the axle hole and wire bundle. That's ok--can deal with this later. Installed into wheel, and did a little video test of it running.
Encountered one issue: Sometimes, it cuts out after a period of running fine. Usually this is at full throttle, but not always--can be at any throttle level. I *think* it is the hall connector to the controller, as it stopped doing it while I held that connector. Can see no connection problem, but there probably is one. Is random for amount of time it takes to cut out. Current monitored via Turnigy Watt Meter does not spike or anything, just cuts off once motor isn't being driven anymore. Pack is the ammo-can 14s2p RC LiPo, and it doesn't have any problems on CrazyBike2 under real loads, so it's something in the motor, controller or connections.
During the test, when hammering the throttle just to see what happens, I found that even with the nuts tight, and the wheel off-ground (no tire yet), it is still enough power and force to twist the axle in the dropouts, because they are already rounded out by prior loaded failures.
I couldn't find the "clamping" torque arm I had made out of an old rear dropout for this, so I took the old ebikekit torque arm retired from the 9C (becuase it has damaged the 9c axle hole and it isn't gonna work for that axle size anymore),
and filed out the hose clamp slit until it would fit the smaller Fusin axle. I had to use a round file for it as all my flat files are too wide to fit.
Well, except for the teensy weensy jewelers' files, but those would take me years to remove enough material!).
The other side will get the 10mm wrench again, so there will still be two arms on there. Just in case.
I forgot that I had moved the tire/tube/liner over to CrazyBIke2's front wheel, so I had to dig out a tire tube and liner. Found all three, but all my remaining usable 26" innertubes suck, and have patches on their patches.
The first three I tried all have new leaks in them since I last patched them, one of htem from under a previous patch, I think.
One of them had a bad valve, which when replaced then also had a different leak somewhere else. Eventually I decided to follow Harold in CR's advice, and use some heatshrink on the valve stem, on a tube I had test-patched the valve-stem rupture.
This made it a little thick to put into the valve hole, so I had to file out and sand the valve hole in the rim about 1/16" or more larger diameter.
Seems to be holding at 55PSI so far.
I have not had a test ride yet, becuase I haven't dealt with the cutout problem. I will likely have to replace the connectors there with something other than the JST-SM 6-pin. I do not like them much; they dont' take any kind of abuse or handling very well. I'd like to use Kingfish's solution of the micro-usb connector, but I haven't found any super-cheap extension cables of that type (so I could cut it in half and use them as mating connectors for motor and controller). It would also have the advantage of probably fitting thru the axle nuts.
One other issue that has to be dealt with before riding is the ATF leaking out the axle wire hole:
after it has been spinning a moment, ATF is splashing up the motor wiring and then runs down into the axle hole,
and then out the end and drips or is slung onto the rim, rigth on the rim brake surface. THAT is NOT COOL.
I don't have a rear brake, so with ATF on the front ones, I pretty much wouldn't be able to stop.
Guess I'll have to find some sealant that *will* work against ATF, then take the motor back apart, clean the ATF off the necessary areas, and seal up that axle hole and wiring.
FWIW, I tried the motor with the hall and wiring up above the axle, and down below it, hoping it was mostly being caused by ATF splashed up on the wires and then running down the axle hole, but it makes no difference--happens either way.
Crossposted to oil-cooled hubbie thread:viewtopic.php?p=576374#p576374
I dunno when I'll be able to get back to it next.