GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

[GCinDC]

mind if I ask you where u got your 44T and chainguard mate?

freebie from previous owner.

take your pick of the rennan chainrings that adrian cited, p5 (or the schlumpf type that alan linked to below. if you're just doing street, you don't need the bashguard.

Got my 9c in ok, bit worried about the offset with 26" with 2.2 tyre.

hmm. i wouldn't worry too much, as long as it's not banging the chainstay.

but really guys, the best thing is to post these kinds of questions and issues in your own threads. experienced folks will be more willing to help out, cause it's kinda thread jack. i don't mind it too much, but i'd much prefer to jump into your thread and help out. take tons of pics. some problems take time to work out and it just gets friggin messy to try to work them out in someone else's thread. i love that there are so many dh comps out there now, and consequently good solutions to similar problems. i'm subscribed to all of them that i know of, so happy to help out. and if you're not getting help on a post, you can pm me to request some help there.

i'll take a lot of pics of my new hs3540 when i open it up, but i can see the wire groove looks a bit deeper and rounder, and filled w/ epoxy or caulk?

anyone else got one from ebikessf and know the wiring diagram? the halls are on a mini xlr, so i'm trying to decide if i should just snip it and use the standard white halls connector - but i don't have a good crimper for that size contact. or maybe i'll add an extension with a mini xlr on one side and the standard white halls on the other. in any case, does anyone know the.... nevermind. i just did an image search of an xlr pinout and found this ebikes.ca image:


so then the next thing is to figure out how ilias wired the temp sensor wire (standalone white wire w/o connector coming out of wire bundle). the sensor inside the motor must be piggy backing on the halls current? so i'll need to piggy back on halls from the controller side to complete the circuit? or can a temp gauge run off a single wire, as long as it get current from somewhere else? hard to imagine...

[GCinDC]

waiting on universal silver mesh. from NJ, i thought they'd ship fast, but estimate in system is May 15. everyone comments on their fast shipping, so hopefully it'll come sooner.

but i'm just driving 75% using only front brake, which is new and a bit noisy - just an even hissing sound, but how long do they take to break in (pardon the pun)? i'm trying to avoid hard stops.

ilia said spokes are measured from the inside of the shoulder to the threaded end, which confuses me, but said he'd cut and rethread the ones he cut too long.

and in the meantime, i still trying to think through the lacing. i'm getting confused. i have been thinking about insert all the spokes from the tight side to dish the wheel towards the center, but browsing through the pics/vids of the old mc wheel, i see that's how it was spoked and it was too much! doh!

dished.jpg (42.9 KiB) Viewed 994 times

i keep being confused cause when i have to true it, it's always upside down!

dished_rubbing.jpg (39.05 KiB) Viewed 994 times

[edit]part of the answer depends on much a curved 9C is off center compared to an hs3540...

perhaps there's an in between lacing pattern...

[GCinDC]

left handed cell phone vid of potential future unauthorized DC ebike race track:

video aborted at sight of fuzz a bit further down the track

[Stone Meadow]

but i'm just driving 75% using only front brake, which is new and a bit noisy - just an even hissing sound, but how long do they take to break in (pardon the pun)? i'm trying to avoid hard stops.

Your pads are almost certainly fully broken in after a few rides. In case they aren't...to "break them in" you can use the following procedure for pretty much any organic or semi-metallic pad: accelerate up to about 30 mph (or as fast as your bike will go if it won't do 30), then slow to a stop using moderate brake pressure. The idea is to get heat into the pads and bed them into the discs, so don't use unusually light braking. Rinse, repeat half a dozen or so times, then let the pads cool off to ambient temperature and they are ready to rip. If the pads are not getting really hot, use more braking effort and start the count over again.

Added notes: the procedure above should be used with clean/new discs. Be sure to remove any old pad residue from the discs (emory paper then wash & rinse the discs) before bedding new pads unless the new pads are the exact same make & model as the previous ones. With new discs be sure to clean off any varnish, grease or other anti-rust coating them come with in the box before bedding new pads.

[GCinDC]

holy crap, it WAS a race track! never knew about the 2002 Grand Prix of Washington, then cancelled because of noise.

grandprixtrack.jpg (77.34 KiB) Viewed 915 times

a bit long for an ebike track, but better than a parking lot.. and convenient bike paths nearby for easy escape.

meanwhile, there are times when the embarrassment is almost too much and it seems only the asylum awaits.... i was studying my 26" hs3540 when i realized i've got mine backwards, with the extended side on drive side rather than the disk side...

20120509_131044.jpg (228.56 KiB) Viewed 915 times

compare to:

a simple casual mistake that i'm surprised could be made. and an offset solution?

and charlie fans will appreciate this. at the park, he came by and asked me to take off his shoes. why? to get better footholds of course...

my other kids could never have done this at 2yrs 4 mo...

stop using moderate brake pressure. The idea is to get heat into the pads and bed them into the discs, so don't use unusually light braking. Rinse, repeat half a dozen or so times, then let the pads cool off to ambient temperature and they are ready to rip.

thanks! of course i forgot to clean the new pad tho i was careful not to touch the business ends. i wouldn't have thought to rinse them. i'll try that. the rotors are brand new, perhaps no name. hope that wasn't a mistake. cheers. appreciate the answer!

[Stone Meadow]

stop using moderate brake pressure. The idea is to get heat into the pads and bed them into the discs, so don't use unusually light braking. Rinse, repeat half a dozen or so times, then let the pads cool off to ambient temperature and they are ready to rip.

thanks! of course i forgot to clean the new pad tho i was careful not to touch the business ends. i wouldn't have thought to rinse them. i'll try that. the rotors are brand new, perhaps no name. hope that wasn't a mistake. cheers. appreciate the answer!

Don't rinse the new pads...just the discs. That's to prevent emory paper residue or the former pad's material getting mixed in with the new pads, or tearing them up.

[Sacman]

NICE!!!
Charlie's a natural monkey... I like it.

[GCinDC]

I still find it hard to believe that DH-comps have some kind of a offset in their swing arms.

i took a closer look with the wheel off. damn...


but check out the ding.

i marvel the original owner didn't limp.

the gold level is square to the frame


and yeah, reversing the rotors would only make it worse:


so i unlaced the wheel, removing the 135mm spokes:


and i relaced it with the old 130mm spokes, with all the spokes going in from the drive side, therefore drawing it closer to the disk side, trued it up pretty nice i'd say and whipped that mofo tire on.


tomorrow i've gotta find a radio shack that's got mini xlrs..

[GCinDC]

couple clips from the lacing

[GCinDC]

motor wires are so short! will have to move the controller again. before i do, someone help: how is the temp sensor (white) wired?

last time i played around w/ multimeter i fried a controller chip. i ran my temp sensor off halls current. surely it needs some current to operate, right?

i bagged the mini xlr and attached my standard connectors. want to run stock for tests before upgrading.

so sleepy. i attached wrong (female) halls connector...

[Hyena]

someone help: how is the temp sensor (white) wired?
last time i played around w/ multimeter i fried a controller chip. i ran my temp sensor off halls current. surely it needs some current to operate, right?

No necessarily - it depends on what type it is. If it's a 3 leg chip type it's probably running off the 5v hall supply, if it's a thermistor it's essentially a resistor that changes resistance with temperture, in which case it's probably piggy backing on the -ve hall wire. Put a multimeter across the white and black wires and see if you get resistance. Failing that you could always ask the supplier

[full-throttle]

Do the new HS motors come with the temperature output?

Would be interested to see whether it's LM35 or thermistor based

[Hyena]

Do the new HS motors come with the temperature output?

Not standard, I guess it was a custom order. Something I wish I knew about when we were ordering the 5400s (and my other others) as I would have definately had it included! Trying to get Kenny to do even routine additions seemed hard enough though.

[GCinDC]

ah, here we go, from here:

New 2012 Crystalyte H3540 cruiser rear hub motor. NSK bearings. Honeywell S411 hall sensors. Built-in 2K thermal sensor ....

i see someone else had a question..

more research to be done. the wire exit looks much better than the last hs3540. looks almost filled with epoxy. and i almost hate to remove the side covers. i'll be pissed if one of the bearings sticks on the axle. better to remove the rubber caps before lifting the sidecover? they've never survived one of my battlefield surgeries...

[GCinDC]

thanks to len for the link to the alligator universal hose kit. the hose is stainless mesh w/ kevlar and plastic coating and the kit came w/ a bag of fittings. cool hipster at the bike rack on Q st cut the cable for me for free. the rest was cake.

ready to bleed:

[moonshine]

hey man,

bottom line...something is effed. I don't know if its the controller (lower on my differential), the phases, or the halls (highest). Lyen's tester says ALL of em are dead. In your experience, when the halls were messed up, when you connect the battery, do you hear a rapid "click click click click" inside the motor? It only lasts for a second or two. Either way, i'm tapping out. So ticked that after a mile worth of riding something is "blown." Ridiculous.

[GCinDC]

ah monday morning.


too busy this weekend to get much done, but now that the MC wheel is built, i'm going to:

- probably replace the factory installed 2k thermistor of new HS3540 with an LM35 (or somesuch) to wire up to my hk temp monitor:

(edit: psyched that i can tap existing wires and not have to run new ones... but come to think of it, i'll probably want to upgrade them prior to oil filling... )

also have to grind the gear puller claws to remove bearing and replace in side cover.

then i'll install the M/C wheel and ride up the Amp sucking Mass ave - probably at night to avoid glare - and record temperature rise
then i'll fill the motor with oil and repeat

[GCinDC]

[JohnC]

Looking good GC!
It’s coming along just like your GT i-drive 2.0 build. I like how you tweak it or make an improvement every week.

[GCinDC]

I like how you tweak it or make an improvement every week.

haha, thanks. my wife is less amused.

while at bestbuy for her mother's day gift, i saw the gopro roll bar mount. it's big enough to attach to fork near disc:

[Sacman]

while at bestbuy for her mother's day gift, i saw the gopro roll bar mount. it's big enough to attach to fork near disc:

Yeah but mounting the GoPro that close to the disc means you really hear the BIG SCRAPE sound whenever you hit the brakes.

[GCinDC]

interestingly enough, the disc brake is quieter after the rainy commute, but i'm bummed that wavy edge of the rotor seems means less than full contact with the pads - in fact it seems the top third of the pads don't contact the rotor. i should have gotten the round edged ones i guess...

but yeah, the gopro mic always magnifies phsyical vibration. i was gonna toss it on the other side but it was getting late and i had to get to work... as always.

bit of drama last night on the homefront so i ran out of time to complete the LM35 transplant:

i'm psyched i can piggyback off the halls again and won't have to run new wires.. tho i think on the way home yesterday when the HK monitor buzzer went off at 125C, the sound of the first beep started to die and then i think the power dropped to the motor. i yanked the connection to the monitor (since i haven't yet wired the switch) and it popped right back. so there's enough halls current to run the LED display but not the buzzer and flashing - but bear in mind also that i'm running 28g teflon all the way from the motor, and what's that 7 strands or so? so that could be a factor...

[Skippic]

You should only power the sensor from the halls, not the display. Just make sure, you have common ground.

[GCinDC]

You should only power the sensor from the halls, not the display. Just make sure, you have common ground.

i'm all ears. last time i went hunting for another 5V source, i blew the chip of a brand new sensorless controller... for the circuit to work, it's gotta come from the controller, right? the display has separate power wires, but for the temp sensor to work, all three wires from LM35 or whatever need to be connected... so why not just power it from them...

i'm happy to open it up and solder to a spare 5v pad...

this is what i have now, which works perfectly fine, until the buzzer imitates a dying chicken:

lm35circuit.jpg (60.11 KiB) Viewed 412 times

and don't bother responding with words. only a diagram will be acceptable.

[Skippic]