GCinDC's Giant DH Comp

[GCinDC]

interesting. excellent use of no words!

i forgot to ask about the proper leads. ever since you suggested piggybacking on halls, i never understood what to do w/ them, since it runs w/o them connected...

hk_vtmonitor.jpg (12.82 KiB) Viewed 278 times

so, if only for my educational purposes (or any lost ebike souls), would you change your diagram to include them?

in other news, it's been raining lately and my waterproof gear ain't waterproof. yesterday, i got a facefull of front tire juice. this morning i decided to ride standing up to keep my face above that stream. and since the seat then gets soaked from the rear tire, it's best not to sit down. some clips:

[Skippic]

Windows Paint FTW!

[Skippic]

Just in case someone tries to "simplify" things:

[GCinDC]

thanks! that's helpful.

in other news, moonshine brought his dh comp and fatty 5404 over and while reaching in my backpack for a tool, my thumb stuck my mechanical pencil and it somehow deposited a 7mm piece of graphite under my thumbnail. several days later and it's still a bit darker in there.


and that bit on the timelapse:

the low lighting resulted in a million flashes which i don't have the energy to weed out.

how you liking that sensorless controller, moonshine? get it running?

[Skippic]

I used your favorite color for the temp. sensor wire

[GCinDC]

I used your favorite color for the temp. sensor wire

not purple, pink! silly

ground the gear puller (thanks, snowchild, btw for the tip on those) down to get at the bearing, taped the legs shut and gently liberated the bearings:



still so clean..


M/C wheel going on tonight! then brakes.

[Hyena]

and don't bother responding with words. only a diagram will be acceptable.

Skippic beat me to it. You're lucky I was asleep, I was going to draw my diagram in such a way that the wiring appeared as a cock and balls
I'd be tempted to drop another 5v source straight across the halls and keep your existing wiring set up - (you could probably throw in a few diodes if you're worried about juice going back into the controller.) Easiest solution, get a cheap phone charger (old one or ebay) - they're usually ~5v - run that off your main pack voltage as a dc-dc converter and drop the output in parallel with your hall wires at the controller.

[moonshine]

Nice timelapse man. That was pretty deep under your nail man. Pretty impressive when you think about it...probability wise... Anyway, yea dude. The 12 fet works. It has no nut like you mentioned, but i can go probably 25-30 mph on it so its currently satisfying my ev needs. It gets warm though....im running 18s2p. Not quite sure how to go faster on it...cause i feel like it'll get even hotter. Remind me to stop by sometime this week to pay you. I was thinkin about reprogramming it, but i too scurrred. So i'll probably just have it as a back up. Oh and...i don't know if this means anything..but my CA showed my Amax reading...that was with my 18fet (before i connected the 12fet and clicked reset). It showed a Amax of 124. Is that a lot? enough to mess up my controller? anyways...i keep a pretty good eye on the CA now...Oh and i love my bike. Its frickin awesome. Thanks GC.

[GCinDC]

hey moonshine, glad to hear you're running. i've got the default asv file for that controller so no worries programming it. no regen w/o ebrakes btw, or do you have them?

and i've been thinking about regen... you engaged regen and blew your 18fet controller. how fast were you going? your hk lipos are 20c but only 2c charge, and since i've noticed how much hotter my motor gets with regen, i'm wondering if that's just excess current that can't get back into the battery. just a hunch. when testing the thermistor in my hs3540, i saw huge spikes at regen... i'd have thought your motor would soak it up in heat, but perhaps the controller took it for some reason.

not gonna ride the mc wheel tomorrow. more work than i though carving (carefully not to scrape windings) a gap for the LM35.


and soldering it in:


home sweet home, belly laying flat on windings:

but before i jb weld it in place, i might want to test it.

dang it i don't have my tester! moonshine, can you drop it off tomorrow?? it's pouring out and i don't want to take apart the bike wiring only to have to put it back tomorrow am...

[moonshine]

Yea man. No prob. What time? text me whenever. Maybe i'll ride there. haha just kidding. Last time i tried goin a half a mile and i got screwed. Actually...know of any bike trails that'll get me there? google says 5mi one way....Will i make it? I don't have a freewheel....so its all motor.

[Skippic]

I was going to draw my diagram in such a way that the wiring appeared as a cock and balls

I'll remember this, from now on all my technical drawings will resemble a cock!

[GCinDC]

...my technical drawings will resemble...

congratulations, but you show off your masterpiece in another thread?

in other news, the return commute got a bit noisy. no shenanigans either. and just in time to install a new wheel!

i'm really torn about upgrading the phase wires while i'm at it. i'd rather not remove that side cover, but it'd be dumb to leave it as is and worry that the oil will damage it...

ah well, let's see what another night in the garage brings...

[GCinDC]

tested LM35 hooked up to HK VT (voltage/temp) monitor. used ebike tester since it puts out 5v.

some variance but motor was still cooling down..

[Scruffoid]

Wow Im dizzy. Nice camera angle.... lets see you do that one at 35mph

[GCinDC]

jbwelded the halls in place so they don't move when oil is sloshing in there.
drilled a vent hole close to axle, and at angle to discourage leakage.

took a closer look where the wire exits and decided not to mess with it.

turned the bike over and water came dripping down out of who knows where... and when i flipped it back, the CA was full of water!

turns out there are quite a few open holes under there.

i tossed a couple washers in the drive side and the wheel lined up pretty well:

long overdue brake bleed. yes, i removed the pads. and yes, that's a seasoning injector.


all cleaned up and ready to go tomorrow. tested it up and down the street. got to 34mph in the middle of the block so that's good. i shouldn't slow down traffic. temp rose to 44c after i parked. brakes work great.

[Hyena]

Nice one, I'm keen to see how you get on with the oil. Have you put it in yet ? If so what sort ?
Looks like a fairly large hole. You adding a breather hose to it or just leaving the hole ?

[shorza]

Looking really good Greg.

took a closer look where the wire exits and decided not to mess with it.

On my Crystalyte, the black plastice spacer between the motor and cables tries to spin with the motor, jamming the cables against the axle.
How did you get around this?

[GCinDC]

no bets on if i'll make it thru the day w/o a breakdown??

Nice one, I'm keen to see how you get on with the oil. Have you put it in yet ? If so what sort ?
Looks like a fairly large hole. You adding a breather hose to it or just leaving the hole ?

Not yet. I'm trying to be scientific. I want to see how the motor runs w/o the oil. and the answer is not surprisingly: HOT. i took it easy today as it's too hard to read the monitor in the sunlight, let alone video it. i'll do my night ride/video tonight, if i can keep my eyes open.

but it's amazing to see the difference of a vented hs3540 in a skinny bike wheel compared to a many pound MC wheel. reminder to self to test no load amps on both.

20120517_072016.jpg (178.12 KiB) Viewed 415 times

ambient was 20C this morning, but the motor was up to 80C after .5mi! i got up to 40mph after a bit, so was happy about that and for the long downhill run it rose only gradually, and hit 125C at mile 4. the hs3540 bike wheel woulda been at 85C max at the same time.

i'm counting on oil cooling. otherwise, i'd have to baby the motor.

and after i get a good comparison at 20s, i'm planning to get up to 24s, just to maintain my hs3540 bike wheel speed. (and i'll sacrifice regen at this point if it generates too much heat..)

but you should be proud of me for not doing stupid jumps on it yet. or even curbs. i don't have enough range in the spoke threads to get crazy just yet.

On my Crystalyte, the black plastice spacer between the motor and cables tries to spin with the motor, jamming the cables against the axle. How did you get around this?

this question almost induced morning sickness when i read it. surely that issues been resolved by now?? i never really understood it, but your description is pretty clear. i almost chopped the plastic off with a chisel this morning, but i've got the wire tied fast to the dropout to prevent rubbing against disc bolts.

i think i will have to remove the wire side cover before the oil. i'll need to caulk the holes over there, if not use more jbweld. it's the right thing to do..

oh, and hyena, as for the drill hole, i tried not to overthink it. i just had KISS in my head and was too busy second guessing myself about the proper angle to go at to counter leakage via centrifugal forces.. i like the idea of a short clear plastic tube in there.

and something tells me i should fill the motor on it's side, in order to measure how much goes in.

but that seasoning injector is pretty fun, and made quick work of the mineral oil. (can you believe me the lbs that sold me the wrong hose also said i could use any old mineral oil... so not true.)

time to stop writing. i feel like i'm jet lagged right now...

[shorza]

this question almost induced morning sickness when i read it. surely that issues been resolved by now?? i never really understood it, but your description is pretty clear. i almost chopped the plastic off with a chisel this morning, but i've got the wire tied fast to the dropout to prevent rubbing against disc bolts.

i think i will have to remove the wire side cover before the oil. i'll need to caulk the holes over there, if not use more jbweld. it's the right thing to do..

Haha, I'm not riding it like this yet. If it causes dramas, I'll get rid of it and just cable tie the cables in the axle.
Sorry, i still can't understand how yours doesn't try to spin with the motor.

[GCinDC]

ilia just told me the washer's been improved. it's not perfect, but it's better.

[outbackhack]

in other news, the return commute got a bit noisy...

Looks like it's not a good week for spokes in DC. I had just watched your video earlier today and then get home to find 3 broken spokes.
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=39854#p582438

[GCinDC]

useful thread: HS3540 wire cut mod help

also, i think i'll start using washers for now, as (from here):

[sn0wchyld]

yea mate, washers help allot, I had them on my HT back when I was using 14g spokes to a normal 26" rim... never had one pull though, and they were only little .5mm thick ones. after a while they flex inwards, so you'll have a fair bit of truing to do while that's going on... but once its done they work like a charm.

is your mx rim aluminium or steel? scratch that, I asked this a while back... Ill go post hunting.

[GCinDC]

the rim is a 7050 aluminum alloy Excel GDK406 Takasago Black 19" x 1.85" 36h. but i got mine new off ebay for $50.

back before i understood the measurements, i decided i needed a 19 x 1.85, but now would be happy w/ a 1.6. i think JRH might have told me a Shinko 244 might squeeze into a 1.4, but god help whoever has to change that tire.

having the wheel so tight in the frame makes for a pain to keep it true, so if you've (or whomever) has a wide frame, go nuts, get a big one, but as is clear in this vid above, the 2.75 tire is a tight fit in this funky offset frame.

efficiency/performance would be a whole lot better in a smaller rim, like the 17 moped, which would be easier to spoke out, but everyone knows i like to learn the hard way...

the large m/c wheel makes for a much more stable feeling on the road. it's hard to explain, but it almost feels like it's a conveyer in the back, like a snowmobile or something. of course it doesn't to compare to the wheel with all those broken spokes! but i've started wondering about the gyroscopic effect of so much mass on the wheel, and helping stability. the nobbies alone seem to provide quite a lot cushion. the giant tube (@38psi) provides even more cushion, before the suspension is even activated...

there are a couple speeds at which the nobbie pattern causes some odd vibration, unnerving at first. i think it's right at 30mph. but above that it's smoother. and considering that the shinko tires are cheaper than the hookworms, i think i can afford to get a street tire... but just looking now, it's not easy! and i knew that the 19 is hard to find size. outside of the dual sport variety, it seems most 19 wheels are for fat rear tires, the front of which is usually a 21...

i got that rear tire mostly with dirt use in mind, but the added traction/friction causes the motor to cook up.

[sn0wchyld]

the rim is a 7050 aluminum alloy Excel GDK406 Takasago Black 19" x 1.85" 36h. but i got mine new off ebay for $50.

back before i understood the measurements, i decided i needed a 19 x 1.85, but now would be happy w/ a 1.6. i think JRH might have told me a Shinko 244 might squeeze into a 1.4, but god help whoever has to change that tire.

having the wheel so tight in the frame makes for a pain to keep it true, so if you've (or whomever) has a wide frame, go nuts, get a big one, but as is clear in this vid above, the 2.75 tire is a tight fit in this funky offset frame.

efficiency/performance would be a whole lot better in a smaller rim, like the 17 moped, which would be easier to spoke out, but everyone knows i like to learn the hard way...

the large m/c wheel makes for a much more stable feeling on the road. it's hard to explain, but it almost feels like it's a conveyer in the back, like a snowmobile or something. of course it doesn't to compare to the wheel with all those broken spokes! but i've started wondering about the gyroscopic effect of so much mass on the wheel, and helping stability. the nobbies alone seem to provide quite a lot cushion. the giant tube (@38psi) provides even more cushion, before the suspension is even activated...

there are a couple speeds at which the nobbie pattern causes some odd vibration, unnerving at first. i think it's right at 30mph. but above that it's smoother. and considering that the shinko tires are cheaper than the hookworms, i think i can afford to get a street tire... but just looking now, it's not easy! and i knew that the 19 is hard to find size. outside of the dual sport variety, it seems most 19 wheels are for fat rear tires, the front of which is usually a 21...

i got that rear tire mostly with dirt use in mind, but the added traction/friction causes the motor to cook up.

Nah ive got a 17 inch mx rim... dont bother. they're too damn small, it'll drop your BB height too much and you'll have pedals bashing on the ground in corners/over large bumps. PITA, though you could solve this by modding the frame to have a 'lower' rear axle height, or if you dont pedal at all.

Strange that you find 19's hard to find tyres for, I thought 18 was the 'usual' rear tyre, with the big fat 4+ inches of rubber, ...

Performance over rough ground also takes a hit, due to the smaller diameter. not as big of an issue as the ride height, but still annoying.

If you do switch to a 17, make sure to stick with alluminium. I've got a steel rim and it gets bent waaaay to easy (though, it is a cheap rim). Also, let me know if you ever want to part with your 19'er.

I'm more thinking of 19" rims for my next bike (front and back), which'll have a on frame motor... but a high top speed where dot tyres are usefull, not to mention the flatproofness... oh the flatproofness. sooo good. I love the look of 'em too. nice and beefy.