The thing Im most proud of so far/ switchin bike with relays

here is a startup timer I should be able to make with parts I have laying around. The PNP is a small s9015.
here is a bigger view http://i.imgur.com/fW7IS.png

I did the math and it should take about 4 seconds for the cap to reach 12v.
Does this seem like it'll work?

edit: actually I don't think it will because the transistor can't source enough power to keep the relay open.

That's odd--I guess the design of the low-voltage supplies in yours are considerably different than in the ones I have here (older xie-chang / infineon / ecrazyman / lyen), as I just tested the one on Dayglo Avenger (6FET Lyen), CrazyBike2 (12FET ecrazyman), a loose Methods 18FET, and all of them have no noticeable spark engaging the "ignition" wire after hooking up only the battery wires first (whcih has a HUGE spark doing that). :?

You still have the rest of that computer PSU you used the washer from? It should have several highly-capable transistors in it, possibly PNP and NPN pairs, depending on it's design.

I just realized that instead of base resistors totaling 3k ohm there is only a 300ohm resistor!

This might explain the large spark I'm getting.

Would it also explain the other problem I'm having with my fets getting too hot? The 12v rail is actually putting out 15v!

Put in a 3k ohm resistor.

Still get a nice spark, but hopefully the new relay will hold. I don't know why it wouldn't. The old keyswitch I used was rated at 10a, and lasted for a year. this relay is rated at 40a

http://www.endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/Contact_Types_(applies_to_all)
Keyswitch is a wiper contact, and you are the driving force behind the motion. PRetty easy to put a lot of force into turning the key, vs the little welds it makes.

Relay is a pressure contact, and only spring force of the contact tab is avaialble to pull it away. So once it welds even a tiny bit, it's done.

Same reason Andersons and similar wiping-contact connectors can be used for fairly high voltages and currents and still be unplugged and plugged in--when the tips touch (or are being pulled apart and just losing contact), they may weld momentarily, but you are still pushing them together or pulling them apart, and the force applied is pretty high, usually enough to overcome any little welds.

Plus the wiper contacts weld at the edges, not at the usual final contact points, so they tend to keep working contact areas large enough to keep operating, much longer than pressure-contact switches or relays, which only have a single contact area and the weld happens right there, damaging the working contact area itself.

AW - I love you for explaining that to me. It makes so much sense, but I completely missed it.

If this relay fails, I'll hunt down a dpst keyswitch. One pole for the controller, and one for the relay bank.

I learned the hard way; taking apart lots of switches and relays over the years and repairing them (cuz I couldn't get new ones for various reasons), and seeing the failures inside.