Electric downhill/freeride bike

[Miles]

I've looked at a T10 profile, 25mm wide belt. Should handle 15kw cont. under the right circumstances.

Why T10? Curvilinear tooth profile belts (HTD etc.) are much better for power transmission applications.

[Ratking]

I've looked at a T10 profile, 25mm wide belt. Should handle 15kw cont. under the right circumstances.

Why T10? Curvilinear tooth profile belts (HTD etc.) are much better for power transmission applications.

Hello Miles,

I am in the process of getting some pros to analyse witch belt I need, and so far he have talked about a ATK-5 profile. Should handle more starts and stops with less noise.
I don't know if timing belt is even possible with this build. With the specs I have I need a 20 tooth drive pulley, thats a bit high.

[Miles]

Hi Ratking,


15kW at what rpm (driver pulley)?

The above are all trapezoidal section belts - probably not the most suitable..

Here's a reference: http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/ ... belts.html

[Ratking]

Hi Ratking,


15kW at what rpm (driver pulley)?

The above are all trapezoidal section belts - probably not the most suitable..

Here's a reference: http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/ ... belts.html

I see, I will talk about that with my contact person. I really don't have a clue about your first question.
I know there are lots and lots of info about timing belts, but I found it easier to get help from someone with experience.
Thank you for your input, I will try to get the best profile available, within my price range.

[Ratking]

Here's a drawing of a AT-5 timing belt with a 2-1 reduction

[nieles]

you want around 180deg of belt wrap around the small pulleys. this will help prevent belt skip.

you could use a idler pulley to route the belt around the pulley with less beltwrap

[Ratking]

you want around 180deg of belt wrap around the small pulleys. this will help prevent belt skip.

you could use a idler pulley to route the belt around the pulley with less beltwrap

I got less than 46mm between the two driving pulleys and I don't think the belt can handle that short radius. I might break after some time if the steel wires inside is bended more then they can handle.
Maybe I have to live with chain on this one.

[nieles]

http://www.sdp-si.com/ss/PDF/80502117.pdf

i would go for this stuff. it has fiberglass reinforcement.

[Ratking]

http://www.sdp-si.com/ss/PDF/80502117.pdf

i would go for this stuff. it has fiberglass reinforcement.

Nice find. I have been trough their shop a thousand times and did not find that. Maybe I need to give them a mail to get those sizes. They don't have any sizes over 15 mm width on their net shop

[mdd0127]

I am happy to see you are finally gettting to ride it. It is an AWESOME build! With the abilties you have shown throught this build, I am sure you will get all the bugs worked out.

On my Astro mountain bike build I used a belt drive and found it was not up to the power of one Astro, let alone 2 Turnigys. If you used the wider belt than maybe, If i recall mine was the 10mm. I now have a #25 chain on the primary and while it handles the power OK it could be better. It is not that much noiseier than the belt drive, I think a lot of the noise comes from the high speed of the motor and the necesity of double reduction. If I had my choice I would use #219 chain for the primary. I have had great success with it on the secondary.

I also am using 219 with a single reduction on my race bike with an Etek motor, and it is nearly silent, and handles the 25KW peaks just fine.

Thank you, far too kind. Everybody can do this with the right tools. I've looked at a T10 profile, 25mm wide belt. Should handle 15kw cont. under the right circumstances. All though I will test the chain a bit more to find where the noise come from.
Good to hear that you have good experience with 25# chain, gives me hope. I have not found a good source of 219 parts, so I just ruled that out. Maybe thats the ticket.

I have some 219 stuff and belt drive stuff for sale in the sale forum. You can get driver sprockets from go-kart suppliers and asuza engineering has good prices on different sizes of blank driven sprockets.

[Ratking]

I am happy to see you are finally gettting to ride it. It is an AWESOME build! With the abilties you have shown throught this build, I am sure you will get all the bugs worked out.

On my Astro mountain bike build I used a belt drive and found it was not up to the power of one Astro, let alone 2 Turnigys. If you used the wider belt than maybe, If i recall mine was the 10mm. I now have a #25 chain on the primary and while it handles the power OK it could be better. It is not that much noiseier than the belt drive, I think a lot of the noise comes from the high speed of the motor and the necesity of double reduction. If I had my choice I would use #219 chain for the primary. I have had great success with it on the secondary.

I also am using 219 with a single reduction on my race bike with an Etek motor, and it is nearly silent, and handles the 25KW peaks just fine.

Thank you, far too kind. Everybody can do this with the right tools. I've looked at a T10 profile, 25mm wide belt. Should handle 15kw cont. under the right circumstances. All though I will test the chain a bit more to find where the noise come from.
Good to hear that you have good experience with 25# chain, gives me hope. I have not found a good source of 219 parts, so I just ruled that out. Maybe thats the ticket.

I have some 219 stuff and belt drive stuff for sale in the sale forum. You can get driver sprockets from go-kart suppliers and asuza engineering has good prices on different sizes of blank driven sprockets.

Have seen your add and wanted some of your stuff, but I am from Norway. I think I could pay you with US postal money order if that is possible for anyone outside the us, or maybe someone could give you the money and I could give them over paypal. But I really don't know.

[Ratking]

A friend of mine just tested the bike. I did see a big ev grin on his face, now he wants to build one too.
Rc bikes are too much fun. When I get this one to be reliable and safe I will stop using my car other than for longer trips.

[Miles]

15kW at what rpm (driver pulley)?

I really don't have a clue about your first question.

Have a look at the tables on page 32 and 34 of the attached pdf.

[drewjet]

Have seen your add and wanted some of your stuff, but I am from Norway. I think I could pay you with US postal money order if that is possible for anyone outside the us, or maybe someone could give you the money and I could give them over paypal. But I really don't know.

If you need, I can take Paypal and then send a money order to mdd0127. Anything to help out a fellow RC lover

[Ratking]

Have seen your add and wanted some of your stuff, but I am from Norway. I think I could pay you with US postal money order if that is possible for anyone outside the us, or maybe someone could give you the money and I could give them over paypal. But I really don't know.

If you need, I can take Paypal and then send a money order to mdd0127. Anything to help out a fellow RC lover

Thanks Drew, but I have to settle with what I have for now, got some really bad news a couple of days ago. I used to work at a friends workshop where he was hired. Unfortunately, his boss decided to sell all the machinery, tools and materials they had, so I stuck with very basic equipment as for now. It sucks big time, I was so happy with what I had access to. That is gone now, they said it was too expensive to keep all the machines.

I got a fair bit done, and I am happy for that. But I cant do any big changes that involves precision work. That sucks, because then I cant play with chains, belts and other goodies. So my gameplan is to get the bike going again with the new battery pack and start with all the details that makes it possible to use it as a everyday option. This include easy charging with a charge-port and some sort of on\off switch aswell. I just burned away 300$ on a hyperion charger and some carbon sheets. Need to make the bike good looking for the cops

All in all, I got a bit of bad luck with the tools and a place to work, but I think I can do the rest of the bike without any hightech equipment. Its gonna be nice to use it every day instead of my car. Have to think green you know

[Trackman417]

Great build mate!
You might have a good business selling designs for frames and such. Really great workmanship. When you started to post photos of the bike on this thread, the first thing I though of was the stealth bomber . And you probably built the frame at 1/10 the cost of the real thing.
Great Job, once again.
If you weren't going for an R/C setup, how long would it have taken to just set the frame for a hubby build? A lot less parts and less complications.

[Ratking]

Great build mate!
You might have a good business selling designs for frames and such. Really great workmanship. When you started to post photos of the bike on this thread, the first thing I though of was the stealth bomber . And you probably built the frame at 1/10 the cost of the real thing.
Great Job, once again.
If you weren't going for an R/C setup, how long would it have taken to just set the frame for a hubby build? A lot less parts and less complications.

Thanks for the kind words, its been much fun designing the frame. All though it may look like the bomber it is far from a copy. I used the geometry from a big hit and the rest had to look a bit like the bomber. Its just the way it will look when you make a sheet metal frame

Its easy to put the frame together if I did not have to think about the drivetrain. I would guess a day if I got all the parts cut out from the laser guy I used. Since the frame itself work as a jig I can weld it fairly quick.

[Ratking]

Hello

Long time, nothing done
At least nothing major. I've re-enforced the rear frame, that helped a lot for minimizing flex in the frame. I also made a slot in the drop outs so I don't need a chain tensioner. Best thing I've done so far. I haven't had any problems with the 420 chain after I did this.

I also got some sheets with 1.5 mm carbon that I shaped in to a battery cover. I have some more appropriate bolts coming in the mail, those in the pictures are 15 mm too long, takes ages to get in. I also made a cover for the other side of the frame. I will glue it to the frame once the frame is powder coated.

I am working with a cover for the first stage, trying to make a good solution for a timing belt and a cover that keeps the belt tight. I want to make a strong first stage and test everything before I get it painted, so I have to live with the rust and bare metal. One day I will have this finished, I promise

[Trackman417]

Thanks for the kind words, its been much fun designing the frame. All though it may look like the bomber it is far from a copy. I used the geometry from a big hit and the rest had to look a bit like the bomber. Its just the way it will look when you make a sheet metal frame

Ha well no problems here with the frame looking like a stealth bomber. Just the fact that you made the frame is quite the feat . You could have copied the bombers measurements exactly and you would still get respect from me, atleast.
Good luck on the rest of the project and dont be afraid to fill us in on whats going on.

[Ratking]

Hello Guys,

The bike is doing well, had a great ride yesterday. I rode 18 km and used 10 Ah. If I remember right, the w per km was 25,4. I found out that the ski community had made a large asphalt track in the woods that was used for the world cup a few years ago. The track is perfect for a e bike with close turns and and variations. So I used quite a bit of power from acceleration and braking all the time. It's so cool to be able to have fun in the tracks without annoy people. I really feel blessed because I can have an electric bike now, before it gets mainstream and people start to abuse and/battery make laws against them.

Heres a picture of the track, it's just a shot from google maps and does not show elevation very well.

I also got a bunch of batteries from a Danish chap. I got them dirt cheap and every pack was balanced and looked perfect. The deal went flawless, a great dude. My collection is now 26 hardcase 4s 5Ah

A mount was made for the two hv160's and they fit perfect. There is so little extra space in the frame that every component need to be placed just the right place for everything to fit. One set of the phase leads is a bit long, but I don't know if there will be any problems with two motors where one of them have shorter phase leads? For the controller I mean.
The only component I would like to incorporate is a contactor/solenoid for safety. My dad tried the bike and the throttle got stuck at 1/3. He could barely stop the bike with the brakes and it got me thinking about how it would be if the power limit was set to 300 A instead of 80 A as it was when he tried it.

The last thing I've done is making a charging and balancing harness. The harness is split with a db-15 connector where the female is fitted to the frame. I will charge trough the balance tap, and use the hyperion 1420. The maximum output current will not be greater than 11 A, and the db-15 is rated to 5 A per pin. I will use two pair for charging, so I hope it is enough. Else I will upgrade to a db-25 and couple together as many pairs I need.

[bzhwindtalker]

Looking good! will you paint it anytime soon? I'm considering going really trashy with mine, rat rod style but with clear epoxy paint over the rust
I guess the pedals are ot useable rigth now?

[Ratking]

Looking good! will you paint it anytime soon? I'm considering going really trashy with mine, rat rod style but with clear epoxy paint over the rust
I guess the pedals are ot useable rigth now?

Thanks man

I will powder coat it as soon as I get the first stage finished with timing belt and a aluminum cover. I need to make holes and weld inserts to hold the cover in place and I don't want to weld on fresh new paint.
I really want to paint though, it is so ugly right now compared to what I want it to be.

I want it to flow right in to the other bikes

The pedals could be usable, just have not put a chain on yet. I had one on, but it made too much hassle every time I took the larger drive chain on an off. Will have one for sure, makes starting and balancing easier.

[Idontwanttopedal]

Vids lol

[mdd0127]

Looks awesome!

Sorry if I missed it earlier in the thread but you're probably going to have to do something about cooling those HV160's. Their amp rating is made with a 5mph airflow in mind. With two of them and two motors, they might not see enough duty cycle to heat up but you don't want to find out the hard way on a long steady grade. I'm running one hv160 on an astro3220 and the controller and motor get pretty hot on pikes peak style climbs and they're out in the open! Again, sorry if you've already covered it. I just want you to have as reliable of a bike as possible......and post video!

[Trackman417]

Heres a picture of the track, it's just a shot from google maps and does not show elevation very well.

I also got a bunch of batteries from a Danish chap. I got them dirt cheap and every pack was balanced and looked perfect. The deal went flawless, a great dude. My collection is now 26 hardcase 4s 5Ah

Alright! All a man truly needs. . Enough lipo to power your ebike through an apocalypse.
I bought these packs too! Going to run 24S2P with them soon. Love the soft wire the balance wires are made of, much better quality then the zippy's I once had. Can't beat the price either
How do you cycle your lipo?