HAL9000v2.0
10 kW
After only 50km of driving with kelly one of hal sensors on my x504 blew off. I do not think this is related just pure coincidence. But what if kelly (KEB72331) draw to much current through hal?
kelly killed 1 hall ???
- Thread starter HAL9000v2.0
- Start date
HAL9000v2.0
10 kW
errr... Hall (like Edwin) not HAL as me. 
Link
1 MW
Hall sensors don't need much power to run, since they're just used for outputting a signal. Plus ALL of them probably would have fried shortly after you turned the thing on, if that were the case.
HAL9000v2.0
10 kW
Now, when I opened the motor I can that Kelly is not responsible, it was the heat. Once again the theory that "all electric stuff work on white smoke, when smoke gets out stuff will not work anymore" proved to be right... Crystalyte just dont like start-stop driving it likes constant high speed. Well, as I can not drive constantly though the city next step is logical, water cooling inside of the motor. One idea is to make new shaft and instead of that iron cross that holding windings put piece of AL with cooling holes inside and combine it with swing arm designed like some sort of radiator...
John in CR
100 TW
That aluminum tube shaft isn't going to get you much surface area, and therefore no much heat sinking ability with air. If you want to exchange heat with air in the surrounding environment, then significant surface area is what you need. My thought to keep hub motors cooler is to install a handful large aluminum disks around the perimeter of the motor. It wouldn't weigh much, and assuming you get a decent amount of air flow between the spokes of a wheel, you'd get decent forced air heat exchange making you able to put more disks in the stack. You wouldn't even have to weld the disks, just size them to barely fit over the hub motor shell and use an aluminized epoxy to secure them in place. Then just balance it when you're done. That's what I plan to do with my DD motor from Knuckles if I have any heat issues.
Link
1 MW
Miles said:
Mmm, problem is that, with hub motors, the coils are on the stator, rather than the rotor. They still have to transfer heat through the airgap, through the magnets, and out to the shell. Still, it wouldn't cost much in weight or drag, so it might be worth it. :?
HAL9000v2.0
10 kW
No, I plan to cool coils inside, because coils and inner alu holder (pressed onto shaft) was on 106°C and housing was on 52°C so I dont think outer cooling will help like Link said. Pictures coming....
HAL9000v2.0
10 kW
Link
1 MW
HAL9000v2.0 said:
You hearing this Safe?
Link
1 MW
Doc B's got some. Give me a minute.
Here they are:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4355&p=65188&hilit=teflon+wire#p65188
Here they are:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4355&p=65188&hilit=teflon+wire#p65188
HAL9000v2.0
10 kW
I'll take some pictures tonite. Some requests for details?
My 504 have 24 poles 6xcca1mm wire parallel winded 4 times between every 4 slots. (total 72 slots) Incoming wire is 2,5mm2 and it gets slightly warm so I plan to put 4mm2 with custom teflon insulation. For normal there is no space...
My 504 have 24 poles 6xcca1mm wire parallel winded 4 times between every 4 slots. (total 72 slots) Incoming wire is 2,5mm2 and it gets slightly warm so I plan to put 4mm2 with custom teflon insulation. For normal there is no space...
HAL9000v2.0
10 kW
After I have completly disassembled the motor I can see clearly what is the cause. One hall is grinded by magnet. The plus wire (red) is broken. Now the ntc1000 goes in so I will know anytime what's happening inside.
Just for info. there are two different bearings 6005 left and 6004 right.
Just for info. there are two different bearings 6005 left and 6004 right.
John in CR
100 TW
Miles,
Yes something like that, but I was thinking taller thinner fins. As subsequently stated though, the heat is on the inside. It looks like there is plenty of room in there and you already have a good thermal conductor to sink heat away from the windings, so you just need to get it out. Significantly enlarge the shaft and attach heat pipes to those interior aluminum spokes is probably the easiest yet effective way to wick the heat away. As part of the process you could do away with the need for torque arms by making it a 2 point mount.
John
Yes something like that, but I was thinking taller thinner fins. As subsequently stated though, the heat is on the inside. It looks like there is plenty of room in there and you already have a good thermal conductor to sink heat away from the windings, so you just need to get it out. Significantly enlarge the shaft and attach heat pipes to those interior aluminum spokes is probably the easiest yet effective way to wick the heat away. As part of the process you could do away with the need for torque arms by making it a 2 point mount.
John
HAL9000v2.0
10 kW
the 7:
15°
15°
HAL9000v2.0
10 kW
The 7: Ok I understand now and will check it later.
You have spare hall sensor in your home...99%!
Take any pc fan...
Remove sticker on casing to see the shaft.
If you do not see shaft remove rubber seal.
Remove safety ring (white ring)
Take out the rotor.
And inside is hall for your crystalyte motor...
You have spare hall sensor in your home...99%!
Take any pc fan...
Remove sticker on casing to see the shaft.
If you do not see shaft remove rubber seal.
Remove safety ring (white ring)
Take out the rotor.
And inside is hall for your crystalyte motor...
