Recent content by aluminumwelder

so what every happened to this project? all photo links are dead, blog is dead, and youtube channel doesnt' even show a clear shot of the frame. maybe original creator could release dxf files and give others a crack at it. Seems like too many bike projects die and with them all the knowledge of...

they have 48v panasonic packs that are 2x the capacity 300w for $40, so you "save" $20 by tearing down and putting your own pack. for me I"m just lazy and got those panasonic packs.

I don't think so because the rim is attached to the motor and there is a big 50mm gap beween the two. It will only fork for direct hub motrs, not motors with integrated rims. sorry.

first order custom made for dd45 motor!

just buy the 50ml bottle then.

Also can make the hubsink out of 0.75"x1.5" Tube with 1/8" thick walls. This would be a single heat sink and not a pair of heat sinks. This is closer to the original hubsink specs see below Original Hub sink: Our Hub sink: 2.0 sq/ft surface area 1.52 sq/ft surface area 15mm sink width...

$40 for two heatsinks that are each 1"x0.5" in size with 0.093" thick walls. Just let me know the diameter of the hub you want to put them on. Each pair is custom cut and non refundable. There will be a slight gap between the start and end of each one which allows the screw to be tightened...

True, but you wont' be changing it much once you settle on a final design. 1x3 T slot is 1.333 lbs/ft hollow aluminum tube of same dimension is 0.54 lbs/ft. it's like 2.5x heavier. if you want to save 10 lbs at least change the 2 main long pieces to hollow tube.

no chain? 80/20 is just as heavy if not heavier than hollow steel tube. I used to use it a lot, but after doing weight analysis found out it is pretty worthless for making bikes out of. ocassional I use very short pieces of it.

added diy heat sinks to my wheels using 1x.5" aluminum tube pretty easy hardest part was tightening the machine screws once on. waiting on statoraide and will inject and see how it cools the motor. I will add some jb weld on the bottom part of motor to fill in the gaps so I will not need to use...

I just used a copper computer cpu heat sink and drilled 4 holes in it added thermal paste and bolt the PHase runner to it. I bent a few fins, but it works fine.

if you have a wood miter saw with aluminum blade it is pretty easy to do. heck one could even do it with a grinder or a hack saw (your arm would be super tired!) buy some aluminum tube with about 1/8" thick walls. Make sure it is 6063 alloy not 6061 (does not bend easily) Lets say you use 1x1"...

thanks I've ordered the 13t motor gears off ebay. I'll test those out and see how it goes. with cheap battery sources like www.jag35.com and www.batteryhookup.com I'm too lazy to build a battery pack. I'll just buy a used one for cheap and add a bms if needed I can solder a dozen leads, but...

I have that same tandem bike, got it used for $75. I want to upgrade mine to ebike as well. Where did you get that rear rack? if you still have it for sale 4 years latter I'd be interested. thanks!

I just got some izip mountain trailz aluminum frame ebikes for cheap off facebook market place. they are easy to step through and have a rear cargo rack. but you can use any step through bike and add a rear cargo rack pretty easily as well. good luck.