Recent content by bancars

Update: The security nut screws onto the "M12 1.25 extra fine thread" bolt on the sizer at Ace Hardware. The replacement ordinary hex nut is #3485-G (in box 272 in the Ace Hardware bolts aisle) and costs $1.69.

I have a simple 36V DIY ebike. It rained a couple weeks ago (ebike was outside, battery was inside) and I rode the ebike the next day (road was still wet). Everything was fine for a couple miles, and then the motor quit. A few hours later (no rain that day), the motor worked for half a block...

That's what I'm going to do. I ordered a 20A separate-port Daly BMS (is that what's in your photo?), so my pack will look like yours within a month or so.

https://www.batteryclearinghouse.com/products/lot-of-144-cells-used-a123-anr26659m1b-lifep04-3-3v-2500mah-in-3-emc-packs Edit: Sale is over, so price is now $140 ($47/ea) for three 364Wh 12s4p A123 ANR26659M1B LiFePO4 packs. There were coupon-code sales for $112 on Black Friday and $105 in early...

I got my my DIY ebike conversion working using this wheel, and here are some observations: * The motor has lots of power-- fun! * It freewheels to a stop within about 5 seconds, compared to about 20 seconds for my non-motorized front wheel. Is that normal for hub motors? * There's just a...

I rode it around the neighborhood. No pedaling (except on the hills) and it works great! Wow, good call! I always thought that only the ohmmeter setting of an analog multimeter needed a working battery. The ohmmeter function doesn't work (not even a wiggle), so I thought the battery must be...

Ok, I finally tested it out with my bike turned upside down (stationary). At max throttle with a 12s4p LiFePO4 battery, it only used 39.6V*2.43A=96W. The ad said it's "36V/48V 350W". Perhaps the ad means to say that the max current is 350W/48V=7.3A. But even if that's the case, 2.43A is way less...

Thank you amberwolf for answering my questions. It was very helpful. Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuwnFMHHtaE I watched it, and like you say, it's a great explanation and demo of all the wiring. His controller seems to be slightly different from mine, but the wiring seems to be...

I have a Yaegoo 36-48V 350W controller (wiring photo attached), that I want to solder to a 9-pin HiGo Z910 cable, which will plug into to my Bafang 350W front hub motor. * The controller has three power wires: fat black, fat red, and thin red. What should I do with the thin red wire? * The...

https://www.batteryclearinghouse.com/products/26-bafang-dc36v-sturmey-archer-rx-rd3-electric-bike-wheel-with-tire-brake https://jag35.com/collections/accessories-1/products/26-bafang-36v-dc-electric-bike-wheel-tire-w-tektro-disk-break (probably a better source, credit to Manbeer for finding...

What controller should I get for this wheel? Also, is it worth paying extra for a controller that has a 9-pin connector, or does it make more sense to cut off the motor's 9-pin connector and just directly solder and heat-shrink the wire connections?

I'm thinking about building a 256Wh 16s1p 32650 BatteryHookup LiFePO4 no-weld/no-solder battery for commuting. The idea is: *$52 cost for the entire battery (plus cost of battery case, springs, etc). https://batteryhookup.com/products/new-battery-hookup-lifep04-32650-3-2v-5000mah-cells D-cell...

Also, would this motor stall out or overheat on a 3mi 9% grade? I've pedaled up this grade many times without a motor (at about 3.5mph, which equals 125W according to http://kreuzotter.de/english/espeed.htm ). With an ebike I would probably reduce pedal effort by about 1/3. Trying to answer my...

Is this curved rim going to be okay on a 1990s MTB with caliper brakes? I'm thinking it will brake decently as soon as the brake surface wears down to have a curved surface, the same as the curved rim. Alternatively, how hard is it to install a non-hydraulic front disc brake on a rigid 1990s MTB...