Recent content by ClintBX

Hi ESFMs, I'm restoring a frame and finished painting it. After a 2 month cure of my final 2k clear coat, I'm finally getting around to the cut and polish phase. I sanded it with 1000 grit wet and after wiping it down and drying it, there are white milky/hazy blotches. It's also sticky in...

I've been thinking about doing this I already reached to one company but said they don't do specific components. Only hatdtail frames. If anyone can recommend me a custom builder to build me a swingarm, I'd appreciate it

I've been looking but finding a frame with a swingarm that fits my current frame and having that swingarm be steel is like searching for a white unicorn

Hi ESFMs, I just had the unfortunate luck of having my left chain stay break on my Voodoo Canzo. I'm running a 500w DD hub in this frame. This frame has a titanium body and would like to keep it in service for some time. So, I'm not willing to scrap it entirely for a new frame. I'm looking...

Looking at the grin tech spoke calculator, when choosing configurations, there are choices between alternating and non alternating cross patterns. With the single cross, I fail to see the difference in configuration between the alt and no alt. Except in spoke measurements. Can someone explain to...

I'm not sure what you mean by 'spokes on the flatter side' and 'spokes on the more conical side'. All my flange holes have a conical dip on both sides of the hole. Do you mean to say drive side when referring to the 'conical side '?

Hi ESFMs, I'm relacing a few gearless DD hub motors and I just finished getting my measurement numbers to put into the grin tech spoke calculator. Now I'm indecise about the elbow orientations. The motors originally came laced in with alternating in-out elbow sequence. Should I stick with...

Ok, is been 4 days of riding since adjusting the brakes and the clipping sound has not returned yet. I have some thoughts. Firstly, I think that centering the caliper by turning the pistons all the way in had made it way more accurate than the brake lever squeeze method (or squeezing the...

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I'm glad you're having an easier time than me. I'm out riding mine right now and my approach seems to be working. I even tightened up the barrel adjuster for a firmer lever. I will eventually change the rear rotor, but mainly because the braking sucks. I can't even lock into a skid if I need to.

This would be less ideal because it's could cause an overhang situation from engaging the rest of the rotor. That's a good way to replace pads prematurely. Besides, I've ruled out radial deviations. It's all lateral

It's a dual piston caliper. They engage equally regardless of the piston adjustment. I've got it pretty centered this way.

I've done one final adjustment. Not the be all and end so of it but just to have so it's good enough to ride it again (I've been on my rim bike in the meantime) A quick test ride gave a cautious optimism. It made no sound at all... Well nearly no doing at all. But I want getting a clipping...

They also sell crescent wrenches🙃 https://www.parktool.com/en-int/product/adjustable-wrench-paw-12

Yeah, it's the DT2. I don't think it's the tool causing my problem. I got this because I hear a crescent wrench can do more damage to the rotor. And it has one nook that allows you more room. Using a wrench with your hand parallel to the wheel when you have to bend the rotor inward can be...