Recent content by cor

Hi Matt, I have a concern about the layout of the belt. I admire how you route it around the 2 motor sprockets in a very compact space, but I see the belt run up and down almost the entire distance to the top motor and with the teeth facing each other at very close distance. I expect that any...

Hi DC, I heard (but have not checked myself) that it is the processor that dies, because it is run at 6V while it is a 5V device. Another reason why it may die is because several inputs and outputs are wired directly to different parts of the bike, these might be subject to ESD (Electro Static...

Is there current flowing in *all* phase wires or only 2 of them? If the MOSFET driver circuit was blown together with the MOSFET blowing, that would cause one phase to not have current and on only 2 phases the motor would not run, but will give higher resistance. Another check is whether the...

You already have located the blown MOSFETs: between + and A-phase! I have a small (6-FET) controller on a standard Chinese E-bike. The first time I ran it, within 100 meters it stopped and the battery self-protected (switched off). I checked and it had a similar problem - one shorted FET between...

Wow, rather harsh, don't you think? At any rate, my (stock EVG 24V) controller has the exact problem that he described: - when the battery pack is inserted, it connects to the contacts with a fat spark. (It does not help that in both the controller and the battery pack a capacitor is embedded...

OK, you were essentially only using the glass fuse on the main board, not the plug-in controller cards. You will find that you can save some weight by removing those from the controller. If you are interested, I can have a look at the controller card and see if it can be repaired or else I can...

This is the "lugging" or "current limit" protection of the controller. So, this has nothing to do with heat (I believe there is a separate temp sensor in the controller which may also kick in at some point) but it is the controller that measures the current and if the current is above a...

I have a stock 24V EVG as well, the controller cannot take more than a peak of 35V, not only because of the caps being 35V but also because the voltage regulators cannot take more, they will die if you try it with a battery that is giving more than 35V. I am running it with 8s LiPoly cells, so...

The diodes are part of any DC controller, they carry the motor current while the transistors are off. (Basically it is a Buck converter with the motor as inductor).

Hi jansevr You asked: would it be possible or make more sense to change the mosfets (i understand i would have to change them all) As others have indicated - yes - changing all MOSFETs for higher current/lower resistance versions can improve the current handling and keep the controller cooler...

You could slow down the fan, but often the best way to make a noisy fan silent is to remove the noisy fan and put in a silent fan, since it is the design of the blades (mostly) and speed that causes the noise, so a quiet design is needed, not a slow-running noisy fan as that will also impair the...

I do not know which state you are in, but AFAIK, California requires a helmet when riding an e-Bike (not a regular bike unless you are under 18)

Hi Degull, I see that ZD53 and ZD52 are in series, so their voltages add up to give the protection voltage of 29V. You can either take the part nr of the zener you removed, or measure its zener voltage by connecting it to your supply with about 10kOhm resistor in series. Say that it shows it is...

Even at 30V you get a bad spark if the input of the controller has a big capacitor and you connect the pack directly. So, I soldered a small resistor to one of the leads - begin by connecting the other lead, then touch the resistor to the second lead for a few seconds and immediately connect the...

Hi Doc, Do you know the temp spec of these cells? Storage and operational limits? Of course, I like to keep them long, but 25 deg C is not a realistic upper temp in many areas.