basically new 10s6p 30Q 40amp BMS or you could bypass...
long story short... I started my E journey with an eboard first then got the idea to build an ebike to do deliveries in manhattan as a side job. So def not a performance bike but as stated a delivery bike. Now before I knew anything about...
Hmmm this is kinda hard being its a delivery bike and trying to run it till its dead but will attempt.. Usually when its sagging hard its around 32v with throttle as it levels out...
yeah its almost like a perfect twin post about initial balancing. All cells now are balanced and reading the same voltages since last tear down, but actual capacity is still an issue.
right, sorry, im not trying to be difficult but how exactly am i testing the resistance for for each cell and series connects and are there specific value ranges i should be looking for? where should i be putting the probes for interconnects and series? thanks!
ok..so i just tore it all down.... Ill post the numbers in just a sec per cell, and string, which were all pretty consistent... BUT
only 1 cell in string 10 wasnt making contact with the cap ends.. but had a charge of 3.8v ... can one cell not making contact with the pack be the achilles heel...
ok, im gonna unwrap the battery here later, remove all the bus bars and then measure each cell voltage individually (while still in vruzend caps and in full pack form)... should i try and test for resistance or something and how?
yes on the 6 bus bars per series connection...and I used 2 of the terminal crimps on each end... i may have been able to squeeze 3 on there but it would have been a tight fit IMO...
as the battery has still been sitting on the charger for 2+ days now...watt meter is reading at 14ah now from...
so heres what we got.. i rode the bike with a full battery till it started to sag as usual... then i took this video of the results with the watt meter from battery to esc... reading about 6.5ah used and average range of 15mi.. with voltmeter still reading about 20% capacity under load...
nah not the charger... i mean if anyone is bored and wants additional reading homework heres my initial thread about the voltage coming in shy of 42... but i feel thats decent after closer monitoring across all packs... but i will solder both connections on each ond of the watt meter so i can...
I bought the earlier Samsung/LG batteries from Alarmhookup. I've run them down and filled them up, and my wattmeter always says they're 4AH. So using them as a calibration, your new battery is 16AH x 16/25, or 10 AH? That is way off. However, it's very consistent with your first battery.
no...
heres what the site says which i may have overlooked but an interesting thought..
"We recommend that for best results, you limit the current draw of the battery pack you build with Vruzend battery caps to approximately 3.5 A continuous per cell. Current bursts of up to 7 A are acceptable, but...