Recent content by gusty

Forgot to post this... but yeah.. replacing the mosfets has solved my problem... didn't have to change all but just two... thanks for all your help

The mosfets are genuine I think - Got them from a component shop near home: www.altronics.com.au and the model is listed on irf: http://www.irf.com/product-info/datasheets/data/irf540n.pdf ah well, gonna give it a shot anyway.. i'm getting tired walking =P

Alright. Say my mosfet is blown up.. What I have on board are HY1707P mosfets (70V 80A). If I replace all 12 off them with IRF540N mosfets (100V 33A) will I need to look out for anythimg else

The black wire from the battery or from the controller? I tested it with red robe on phase wire and black probe on black wire from CONTROLLER and results are 1 throughout :pancake: totally lost.. I did pull apart the controller and all 12 mosfets seems fine (no burn damage or abnormal lumps)

yep yep... didn't open the controller... adn yes used the diode function =D

well to be honest not really.. just following instructions from an online post... I hooked up the red probe of my multimeter to the positive pin of the power input at the controller end and the negative probe on each of the phase wires. Two of the phase wires show 1 (infinite resistance I...

Yea man i just checked the phase wires from the controllers for continuity and the yellow wire beeped.. Its a fried mosfet I guess.. Just need to open up box to confirm..

nope, no cogging at all with the wires disconnected from the controller and isolated. However, if I short the disconnected phase wires together, the hub shows a lot of resistance while spinning.... The battery input is all intact as I took extra care to make sure all the wires are well...

I'm kinda in the same position as you just that its a new motor and I haven't used it except for a test ride :cry: I did hear a whip while tying everything down to the frame (which must be the phase wires touching the frame somehow and shorting out). I get good readings from the hall sensors...