Recent content by LHelge

This is my battery bag, custom made for keeping 4 Turnigy 6S 5A batteries in my frame. For some more info, look here

I'll contact the company that made the front sprocket to see if they can custom make a larger rear sprocket for this bike, would you think 10/55 reduction is enough, or should I go for 10/60 ?

A picture of how the motor is looking now: What do you think about mounting a 90 mm tube on the right motor mount plate and a 80 mm fan on the rotating outer part of the motor?

Great, that's what I wanted! This is a project me and my brother works on whenever we are visiting our parents, this time was the first opportunity we had to make any testing of the bike and I forgot my current meter. Maybe I'll get a cycle analyst for it at a later stage, but the long term...

Sure, but I hoped for some kind of discussion around its capabilities. I'm interested in both 130 and 180 rpm/V and of course custom winds.

Of course, but as I wrote in the original post, I tore out the original windings and rewinded it myself. I think the original 180 is 6 turns and 130 is 8 turns terminated in delta. My motor is 7 turns terminated in wye. 180 * 7 / 8 / sqrt(3) = 90 rpm/V

Originally 180 kv, but as I said, rewinded with double strands of 1.5 mm copper wire terminated in wye for 90 kv. I'm pretty sure that the 180 kv and 130 kv is the same motor apart from the windings.

I've built an electric moped by replacing the ICE with a Turnigy 80-100 on an old Puch Maxi. The motor is fitted with SS411A hall sensors and rewinded with double strands of 1.5 mm copper wire for 90 rpm/V. I use a Lyen 12 x IRFB3077 controller to run it from 12s2p Turnigy 5 Ah 20C...

That was my first thought as well, the battery has already been replaced and I've tried 3 different batteries. But as I wrote before, it has the same problem when I run it on a powersupply while the wheel rotates freely. It draws around 1 amp between 20 V and 30 V and when i turn the voltage up...

I think the phase and hall wiring is correct since the wheel turns with good torque as long as the voltage is below 30 V. Maybe I shouldn't say spike, the controller shorts the battery when the voltage exceeds 30 V. I havn't tried it without fuse/BMS yet but I'm pretty sure that the magic smoke...

I was told this is a 24 V - 36 V controller but maybe I'm misinformed, as you can see on the attached image the 36 V box is checked as well. Mi first guess what would happen, if you apply higher voltage than the controller can handle, is that the LM317 goes up in flames. How would you explain...

I need some help with a problem om a street legal bike I'm building. I've been trying to run the bike on a 36 V battery, but the BMS cuts off as soon as i connect the battery. Yesterday I tried using a 35 V, 10 A power supply instead. When I turn on the PSU and gradually increase the voltage...

That would probably not be possible without changing the hardware, depending on how the microcontroller AD pins are muxed with the digital. I would say that there is a better chance of either replacing the sensors in the motor or making some kind of circuit to transform the sin/cos to normal...

I've written a little about this controller here: Cheap controller I will look into creating my own firmware for the STM8 processor.

A small load test with the controller running in sensorless mode. The throttle is set to the lowest possible and the battery voltage is about 46 V, with the current reaching at most 5.5 A it is around 250 W. feruQLt5glM Will write a little bit more about the controller and my modifications when...