About this: I forgot to connect the hall sensor plug just now and the motor still worked fine. I guess the hall sensor wires aren't needed with this controller?
Ok another update (hopefully last one). I think the extra power was because something was snagging. It's now sending a normal amount of power through.
Plus the wheel seemed to reverse direction again. So I connected the learning wire and tried a few more combinations of 3 phase wire until I...
Tried a few more combinations of 3 phase connectors and found one that worked.
The throttle seems to send through loads more power than the last one I had. I only seemed to twist is a little bit and it was up to 600W+. Previously with the bike on the stand, full throttle would never send more...
Thanks! I feel a small step closer - with the learning wires connected the motor now goes the correct way around. But when I power off, disconnect the learning wires and power on again, the throttle makes the motor spin backwards!
Nice one, I've made progress! However the motor keeps spinning backwards when I connect. I've powered up 5 times now and it's always running backwards. Any ideas?
Hi. I have an old ebike, basic frame from 2000, modified for lipos and brushless about 15 years ago.
The controller broke recently so I replaced it with a cheap one on ebay with many more wires than I needed.
I also bought a new throttle at the same time, a basic 3 wire one.
I have connected...
I didn't run the motor at all with the polarity reversed. Straight after I'd connected everything up (wrongly) and I measured total voltage at 37ish volts, I realised something was wrong and disconnected the paralleled 3S packs. Worried about any damage to my lipos, but have since put them...
Good point about the fuse holder. I will give it a bit of an inspection. Plus the bit where it screws into on the bike needs checking.
I understand what you are saying. In my situation I am being limited by the 22A current limit on the controller. Maximum power on 49V was approx 1078W. Now it...
Update:
The 3S batteries arrived 3 weeks after ordering them. Turnigy 30S 4000mAh ones. They seem fine.
First thing I noticed after connecting them all up with my various wiring harnesses was that the total pack voltage measured 36V. What the flip, I was expecting 60V! It turns out I had tried...
Jeremy noted earlier in the thread:
"The voltage regulator is an LM317K, which has an absolute maximum differential input voltage of 40V, so the max at its input would be around 52V"
So 45V should be ok.
Not sure. The voltages are as indicated on the photo above, except for the one measuring 44V which now measures 38.3V.
Tell me what I should measure and I'm there, multimeter in hand!
<edit>Resistance of the new resistor rated at 330 ohms and measured by me just now with multimeter at 340...
Hi guys.
I've soldered in a new resistor as suggested and measured the voltages across all the capacitors again in the same way as before.
Previously the voltages measured as per this photo:
The only one significantly different with the new resistor is the one at the bottom of the pic...
Update:
Possibly slightly over-reacted in my previous post. I have calmed down now.
Got home and opened the controller up and reassembled with piece of thin tape insulating the metal 'posts' that the FETs sit on.
You can just see the grey/white original tape in this photo:
It's sticking...