Recent content by ossivirt

You can make heavier leads but dont make them any longer than original. That makes inductive kickback stronger and max amps that welder can survive lower. Best place to get more power is battery. You did not say how much current you currently have when welding but you can go up to 1800-2000A...

If that works fine for you then its fine I guess. If you want to get same result for less joules then you need to get amps up and time down so copper dont have time to soak up all the heat..

Caps need cc/cv to not damage itself or input device. I quess you can rig something up with battery + something + caps but I see no advantage other than off the grid and posibly more portable. Lipo and 12v starter batteries can be used directly with welder. Depending how big/high end you go you...

Sorry but I dont think you have any chance. If you have the materials then you can try and post results.. Anyway if you try 0.1mm nickel plated steel and 0.1mm copper there is a chance off somewhat decent welds but you have to try to figure that out.

Yes sorry. Excuse my metric brain :oops:

You can also try to keep battery voltage little lower. Thats big battery so it will still weld many times even when nearly "empty". Or use 8avg battery wires will also loose couple amps..

Original cables are shorter than 1m but that is partly because when you connect lipo there is x ammount of wiring integrated to the lipo brick. Same for sla when you put your favorite connector + short cables with battery terminal clamps. And like said above having shorter wire is a lot better...

Wire size chances resistance and therefore welding current depending your setup. Wire lenght chances how bad the inductive kickback from weld pulse is. Shorter wire is means less kickback. If wires are longer than original you need to chance the wire lenght value wich sets welders over current...

Series unless you get overcurrent error. Then paralel and if thats no good then just 1. You also might have to get thinner copper or thinner steel strips if you are not able to get good welds. 0.2 copper is just so hard to weld. You need weld current close to kweld max current just to have chance..

As you said. 1200A is plenty for nickel and nothing is enough for copper basicly :lol:. With nickel copper sandwich you probably get better results with more current. With 2nd battery paralel you may or may not go over current limit. Really no easy way to be sure before you try with your...

Sounds like you have bad connection or dirty tips or something. Usually when I burn things my connection was bad and sparks fly. However kweld should have protection against that too. Cant remember the correct term for that but its adjustable. What kind of readings you get after good and bad...

If you can get that 1600A up closer to 2000A you can probably use a lot less joules and get pulse time also down and not melt fuse. With copper pulse that long just heats the copper all around the weld and not just the spot weld.

I first saw only one battery connected but at second look you have both paralel. 1000A seems little low for thouse batteries so that could be the issue. I have used 110Ah starter battery and it welds around 1500A so yea..

0.2mm copper is so close to the limit what kweld can weld. With current close to 2000A it is barely possible atleast some cases. Also 0.2mm copper for 18650 cells is usually little bit overkill since 0.1mm or even nickel is enough for most cases. But please do post results of your work with...

You can go to 100j but that might still not work since the reason why copper is so hard to weld is its ability to conduct the heat away from the weld spot. When you set more joules that basicly means longer pulse time and that means copper has longer time to spread the heat away so at some point...