Recent content by sailah

Well this bike has beaten me for the last time. In my attempt to disassemble the motor I managed to crack one of the side covers. Subsequently swinging it over my head and smashing it on the ground also probably did not help. :evil: I'm pushing this entire nightmare back in the barn and just...

One more test: I checked BLACK-RED in main hall wire harness and got 4.25V BLACK to BLUE GREEN YELLOW phase wires all produced 0-5V when rotating wheel backwards. I checked spare hall wire harness and got 4.38V BLACK-RED Ground to SPARE halls all produced ~5V steady while wheel was rotated...

After a long hiatus with my nemesis, I have finally gotten back to work on it. A year ago I was test riding it, literally 5 mins after finishing. In my haste to ride, I neglected to tighten the drop outs and the QS205 wheel went flying past me (literally, ripped all wires from controller and...

I did, its now at 4.17V along with everything else.

So I decided to take apart pack or at least perform adequate destruction to get to a point where I wasn't willing to go any further. Bought a metal trash can. Set up pack on my tailgate, dressed in heavy clothes, full face shield, gloves etc. Applied 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol to soften up glue...

In my limited experience, the hot glue pulls the wrapper off. I'm wondering if there's an established way to extricate the cell from the group?

Yeah all the cells were brand new from NKON with no time on them at all. Benefits of having an infrared camera on hand, I shot the pack and the bad cell is clearly hot. I shot it again after 20 min and it dropped down to 55C so it looks like it won't cause any further harm.

Upon further inspection, after removing all the foam padding and my careful wrapping I found a bad cell. It was blackened around and clearly not right. Also there was a smell. As I was looking at it, not touching, I saw it spark. Well that was enough for me. Pack was promptly brought...

Well thanks for that!!! I decided to stop charging and cut open the pack to access the individual balance leads. Started checking from nickel strip to nickel strip. Noticed 1 group was off. So then I checked between pins on BMS since it's wired so neatly. 1-2---4.17 2-3--4.18 3-4--4.185...

Thanks, I have BMS wired up to charging circuit only. I made up a quick lead to attach the charger XT60 lead directly to pack, bypassing BMS. Now charging voltage is heading back up like before. I'm reading the voltage through the charging lead lol I guess it's possible BMS is bad, it's...

Hi, Been away for awhile getting back into this project. Please forgive me if this is a dumb question I did search... I built an 84V 20S12P pack from Samsung 25R cells. Added BMS. I charged the pack last year during maiden voyage and had a mechanical problem so I put the bike in barn...

Thanks for comments sorry was delayed in response. I decided to run BMS but only for charging. Ran all balance leads, connected B- to pack. Ran charger lead to Pack + and BMS P-. Made up sleeved charger leads with XT60 connectors. Mates with bike Neutronix Speak ON lead I also ran. Covered...

HI Merlin, I chose 25R based on a number of other bikes very similar to mine using same cell. Plus the pricing was best when I bought 250 from nkon. Finished up wiring. I decided to just use BMS for charging. Made up a nice charge lead with XT60, shrinkwrapped and sleeved. I also foamed up...

Thanks kdog. The more I think about BMS the more I'm inclined to bypass it. I have a controller with programmable LVC which is readable via bluetooth to my phone. I don't plan on pushing the battery to LVC limits, quite the opposite. So as I see it, the BMS really is just for balancing in...

OK, yes I could open things up. In reading more about others running a battery and motor like I am, they are all into higher class controllers. I think the best option may be to sell what I have unmodified and just go up to the next size controller. I really like the PV esp the bluetooth...