Recent content by stator

The 116 is a custom chip made for Xie-Chang. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12416 All of the Xie-Chang 116 based controllers are similar, except the number of paralleled FETs and the input power supply. There is a schematic here...

The maximum voltage drop the LM317 can handle is 40V. I think the minimum current is about 50mA. We want 12V output, so that leaves 48V to drop across the power resistor if the maximum battery voltage is 100V. That would require a 960 ohm resistor. I think I ended up using 1K. I'm changing...

There is some information on the newer setting of the "Keywin E-bike Lab" in this thread (second post): https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12255

I purchased some cells from this seller: http://cgi.ebay.com/4PCS-New-A123-2300mah-Li-Ion-26650-Lifepo4-Battery-Cell_W0QQitemZ190338256711QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c510b4f47 They appear to be seconds, but the only problem was they were double wrapped with the green...

With this voltage it should be 1K, but I didn't have one, so I'm using 1.2K. I also changed R11 to 19.6K. The shunt is .001 ohm.

I went for a 5 mile ride. All flat ground. I thought I had solved the throttle cutting out problem, but it is still there. Other than that, there were no problems. The controller, motor, and battery stayed cool to the touch (I wasn't monitoring the temperature). Voltage was just over 100V...

I finally have a new battery put together. This is a 24s, 5ah, 20C made from four Turnigy 6s packs. It's just over 100V hot off the charger. I did a no load test with a Crystalyte 5304 motor. I need to get it all put back together and mounted on the bike, then I can take it for a spin :D

The 0.5mOhm shunt should be alright. I think the original shunt was about 5mOhms, so you could scale the settings in the Parameter Designer by a factor of 10. I'm using a 1mOhm shunt I got from methods.

I solved the problem with the controller cutting out by changing the input capacitor (C1) from 470uF to 1000uF. The 1000uF cap is about the same diameter, but longer. It just fits inside the controller. I wanted to see how hot the FETs would get under a constant load, so I chose a path up...

I made the battery from two Bosch Fatpacks (Konion). It is 20s2p 18650 cells and I charge it to 83V.

The CA doesn't keep max voltage AFAIK. The battery was still fresh since I wasn't very far into the ride. In order to get 10A flowing back to the battery, the voltage must have been very high. What I did different on this ride from the last one, is I was crouched down to keep the speed up...

All repaired and back in operation. Let me see what I can break next :twisted:

I didn't have a 620 ohm resistor, so I use a 680 ohm. I also cemented a thermocouple to the phase B high side FET. It's hard to see it in this picture, but the tip of the thermocouple is between the nylon washer and the plastic body of the FET, touching the metal tab. I went out for a ride on...

Thanks dnum, I will try that. The 30mA I measured was with the controller not connected to anything else.

Maybe you could use a car ammeter from your favorite auto parts store, or junk yard. Here is another option: http://cgi.ebay.com/3-1-2-Blue-LCD-Digital-AMP-Panel-Meter-DC-50A-Shunt_W0QQitemZ250494265157QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a529f2745&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262