Recent content by Sturmey

I think moisture/water/vapor droplets in the air in tube can cause extra large increase in pressure with temperature. Another possible good reason for using nitrogen in tires which is normal I believe in formulae 1 cars (as well as 'Divvy' bikes etc).

Re above, I often put on a thick pair of gloves and with both hands (a hand at each side of wheel) squeeze the opposite pairs of spokes. I then retention the wheel spokes as they loosen after this. I then repeat again (and again) and retention if necessary. This has worked for me with 14g spokes...

I usually put my load resistors into a bucket of water if necessary ( voltage was low 50 volts ) I am not sure about those particular resistors but there is a discussion here that might be of interest.

There is a tube available by Gaadi that can be fitted without removing the wheel.

If I may add to what you said, most/many multimeters anyhow are only specified/guareenteed as accurate at best to about 1% plus one least significant digit. I think you would need a more accurate lab type instrument/meter or calibration reference voltage to measure more accurate than this .

Sorry, it does not have custom firmware.

It is indeed phase current. It circulates through the motor. Freewheeling/flyback current adds to the battery current and increases torque. As far as I know, at any moment, Phase Current=Battery Current + Flyback Current. Anyhow that my understanding. I have a 9 fet controller and it works great.

Dont forget that extra 'freewheeling/flyback' current over and above battery current is generated caused by collapse of motors magnetic field with PWM and this circulates through (usually I think) the lower set of 3 fets through the body diodes. Doubling up on these 3 FETs as say with a 9 FET...

Just a thought. Sometimes a light thin wire is better in this application in that if it does short, it will burn/fuse quickly and do less harm. I have used thin fibreglass sleeving that was useful as some of the balance wires had to cross over adjacent nickle strips.

Your suggestion reminds me of the 'End Cell Switch' that was used on old 50 volt strowger telephone switch power supplies to boost the battery under load during power failures. Anyhow, it could be implemented something like below in your case but I'm not sure if its a good idea. It would be...

In Europe, there is also a requirement under EN15194 as quoted below. They may not be required with certain torque sensors as they may cut off the power quickly within 2 meters.

I have put diodes in series with charger output that seems to work although it does slow up the switching 'on' of the finish green light. You would probably need two in series.

As well as transmitting data, the coils also transmit a small amount of power for the hall sensor in the spindle (like a transformer). Is it possible that the coils turns/turns ratio is different from the original setup as this could possibly result in wrong voltage or insufficient power going...

Circuit breakers will typically carry multiples of its rated current for a certain time before it trips (e.g double its rating for 50 seconds)and for this reason I would try to stick with the 63 Amp breaker or only go up one step (e.g 80 Amp) if this is necessary.

C1=2 is setting on last kit I fitted by default and worked. (Previous kits had C1=7). Greenbikekit says C1=6 I think as quoted below for KT-V12L. I hope it helps. https://www.greenbikekit.com/intergrated-e-bike-pedal-assist-sensor-kt-v12l.html