Recent content by Vanquizor

Has anyone tried one of the 500w supplies on e-bay advertised as having current limiting built in for battery charging? Seems like it should work without a limiting board... I'm thinking something like this one...

I guess I should have considered the section I am posting in more carefully- but to clarify by e-bike I did not mean to exclude scooter type (I own a couple of them), recumbent (not yet but it looks fun), or traditional bicycle style (also in my collection and 2 tidalforce frames on the way)...

I'm contemplating building a touring e-bike, something that I can travel significant distance with as work seems to be taking me all over the province. One question that keeps rolling around in my mind is what is a realistic power consumption figure to use for an e-bike travelling at 70-90kph...

The C rating you need is just your peak amps divided by the Ah capacity of your pack (in you first one 50/14=3.58). If you're carrying 10Ah+ for range with the controlers you indicated the C rate is more an indicator of quality of cell rather than a constraint in performance.

Here in Canada I took my roll of tape to the paint shop and had them mix paint match to it before I painted my race car... its nice to have your spot repairs blend in at the end of the week-end.

really boring day at work, so I tossed every poly pack Hobbyking sells into a spreadsheed and made the assumption that you would use any bonus points on the item in an order. A quick sort shows only 2 packs under $0.45/watt; the one I previously posted and this one which is currently out of...

If you aren't an UBER member and can settle with only 15C you're way cheaper building a pack with these: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6502&aff=150208 works out to $0.41/watt plus shipping.

I'll disagree on this one, its actually real easy to do a quality Job on a brake line on your own. Just order up whatever hose size you want and whatever Earl's fittings you need. On our formula car we try to avoid any crimp fittings- when the hose gets damaged or you decide to make a change...

Running something like 120v 500amp peak will make a reasonable runabout. At freeway speeds (100kph) expect about 150-200 amps for an average small car. Zilla would likely kill that motor unless you de-tune it, but it would give headroom. Curtis or Kelly make usable bits, I'd look for a second...

UGH... LFP types faseter than me.... Dito what he said about lubrication and measuring stretch plus: Where were the nuts sourced? Based on my own (automotive) tinkering I've learned that a 12mm nut and bolt is definately not a standard... the manufacturing tolerence for an ISO standard quality...

With the concerns about instability with the fan cycling wouldn't the quick and dirty be to just force the fan to run 100% of the time? Would still give predictable output and it can't hurt life cycle to keep things a little cooler. Suggestions on the best way to accomplish this?

Tesla's curve looks reasonable for something running a torque converter... if you throw an automatic on a chassis dyno you'll get a torque curve that looks like that down low.

If you build it they will come.... I'd be happy to sample the high volt version.

I am looking for something in the 98-99 volt neighbourhood so on the voltage side I should be fine with 2 in series. I just want to get the current under control so they don't heat so bad while charging. My units are exactly the same board as I linked to (stamped: s-350&201 2005-09-19), with...

Maybe I missed it, but what was the final verdict for this failure? Bad bits or related to Hyena's mods? I have several of the s-350-48's identical to the one here: http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/6478/mws35048.jpg with the exception that mine hs C36 populated with a 63x3300uF cap. Per Mike's...