Recent content by zeddrick

I have an old ebikeling 48v 1200w direct drive kit that I'd like to modify with statorade on the magnets and heat sink fins on the hub to run it at either 60v or 72v at either 3000w or 5000w. I've seen youtube videos of people doing this with very similar cheap 1000w DD hub motors from...

From what I could gather through other forum posts and youtube videos it seems like alternating the spokes at the flange of the hub from in/out/in/out, etc, is the way to go? From doing it this way you apparently create alternating pushing and pulling spokes? My motor kit originally came with...

Would there be any reliability/strength advantage in using a steel wheel over a regular alloy one for a direct drive hub motor? I wouldn't be concerned with the extra weight. It seems like all DIY hub kits come with cheap 12g spokes that don't work well with alloy bike rims because they require...

So do you think the random power surges are doing any lasting harm to the batteries, controller, or motor? If it's just a weird harmless quirk of the parallel connector that isn't effecting anything else negatively then I'd be fine with it.

The only thing that really concerns me is the split second surge in power that happens, I can feel it kick in for sure regardless of what the display might be saying, it's slight and very very short but it's like someone pushed me forward for a split second. The first time it happened it did it...

I turn off the bike and I use the wall chargers that each battery originally came with, charging at the same time. I've read that some people charge through the xt60/xt90 battery cables? I don't do that, I just use the generic wall charger that each battery came with, and I don't mix them up...

Ever since using this Bolton parallel connector to put my two 48v batteries in parallel I have been getting random split second over volting when climbing some steep hills (a sudden split second acceleration with my display showing 65 to 70+ voltage for a second and then going back down to a...

Bolton Ebikes are selling a Dual Battery Parallel connector rated for 30a current, my ebike has a 30a controller and I have two 48v batteries that I'd love to put in parallel so I wouldn't have to manually swap batteries all the time. They say the connector has smart features that will save your...

I'd have semi-slick tires on either and they'd both have a 3000w DD rear hub and 72v40ah batteries. 90% road use, lots of hills, moderate amount of rough roads. Would the full suspension be overkill? Would a rigid fat bike with full size 26"4.00 be able to take the small bumps and vibrations out...

I have my DIY ebike with a rear DD hub motor and I'm looking for the cheapest way to upgrade my torque power for all the steep hills around me. Would adding something like a 500w/750 bafang mid drive kit on top of my direct drive ebike make sense? Or would it be better for weight/efficiency to...

I have a DIY ebike with a 1200w rear direct drive hub motor and two 48v20ah batteries that I swap between manually (both batteries are attached and secured to the bike, I just unplug one from the controller and plug in the other when one gets low). I'm tempted to get a bafang front geared kit so...

I've had my first and only ebike (1200w DD rear hub w/ 48v20ah bat, 30a controller) for a year now. It's on a rigid Schwinn 80's mtb frame, 26x2.00 slick tires, it gets up to 30mph on flats, 10mph up my steepest hills. I do food delivery and am surrounded by moderately steep hills and really...

Would this adapter work for connecting a small anderson style battery to a (small?) bullet style controller? I'm pretty certain it's the same exact SAE/Bullets my controller has, I'll put more pictures below of my controllers bullet wires. I would normally have no issue crimping the bullet...