Hey mate, that would be the standard size set, they'll fit most motors from 220mm to 240mm diameter, which fit MXUS, QS 205, Leaf, Crystalyte, 9C and other common sizes NOTE: QS273 or TC Crown hubsinks are larger size but also available.
Just the corners of the piece, sit it up like a bridge and tap or push the center down untill the radius matches your hub pretty well and use that one to do the rest
they do pull down during heat cycles so fitment isn't critical
there's some more info here on general fitment...
Yep you should be just able to push them down by hand with the curve facing upwards, get one to match exactly then use it as the template for the rest, takes about 5 mins
Finally! got the Qs273 Hubsinks working!
one tube of statorade is perfect with them, and they just need a little massaging with the BETA versions to have perfect contact but they are very effective for high power overheating hub motors!
no worries mate if you are looking to cool your ebike hub motor, the hubsinks will do that no worries, you can purchase them from anywhere you like, the statorade is seperate but highly reccomended.
grin hubsink -...
same mate, havent seen you on FB since you left but im still trawling the forums, been working on finalising the wheelie box!
awesome man! i have an electric supercharger project i need some punchy small packs for ill shoot you an email!
Hey mate
The pricing on Grin and the Hubsink website are the same, both kits include the nuts, bolts and thermal paste, both pages have the statorade as a seperate product.
the Hubsink website ships from Australia and the grin one from Canada
Thanks mate thats definately handy, my main concern is the QS 205 ones dont match the drawing or specs from QS (295mm) in real life after paint etc and the tolerances are so tight that i actually spent quite a bit of time with trial and error to get the final hubsinks to truely fit correctly so...
I have a bit of time on the CNC this week
does anyone with a 273 at hand have the exact measurements for the magnet ring diameter, i have been given 3 or 4 different ones now and want to make sure im accurate, it looks like 295mm is the average so far?
what is the true clearance between...
The gap works as a spring to keep tension on the assembly throughout heat cycles you are correct
Don't tighten them right up till they touch, just untill they are snug and equal around the hub
people have and it does help, (if your magnet ring gets warm, the hubsinks will pull more heat out regardless) but they work so well together i wouldnt recommend doing one without the other, unless you have a specific reason to need to do so :flame:
Ive had a few enquiries for one-off versions of the hubsinks for non standard motors and now i have my CNC back up and running ill do a small-run of billet Hubsinks
the main enquiry i have is for the QS273, but i have been given 4 or 5 different curcumfrences of the magnet ring, i would be...
haha absolutely awesome, i did similar but not as thorough to mine, and it was crazy how thick that paint was, almost a fill mm or more i would say, they really lay it on there!
if you are chasing ultimate thermal coupling this would certainly give you one less thing between the hub and the sink!
Hey mate yep that's my tooling company i have them up there as well as http://www.hubsink.com - ebay does take a bigger fee but it seems sometimes people find it there before the website
the only way to do that would be to go around with a coping saw and trim them down, i have done it once...
interesting you mention the death bike because without using launch control (low angle) mode when I was doing my 0-100 runs
I was mousetrapping the throttle and backing off too much as the front came up, then letting it down too much and losing speed to get the nose to come back down etc
with...
apart from the fun side of it i haven't really made it clear that i would also it was initially designed for saftey, to stop flipping accidentally which has injured a few people on powerful ebikes, it wont entirely stop whisky throttle but it can be set to stop the front coming up past X angle
I've been quiet but I've been busy since HubSinks! they are related though because as i kept adding power, i needed more control
The 4th version of the Wheelie Box / Launch Control Module is done after almost 2 years, its fully potted and shock/waterproof now and i'm ready to start organising...
How did you go once you got the FF in there
ive been away so apologies for the late reply but yep, the FF is very important and doubles the effectiveness of the Hubsink alone!
i've been doing some more seat of the pants testing with the Hubsinks and statorade and i've found when first installing the statorade putting the whole 10ML in seems to be the sweet spot (at least for the QS205 and MXUS motors)
Some makes its way into the nooks and crannys, and seems to leave...