Two Questions - BB Drive Systems

mwkeefer

1 MW
Joined
Jun 14, 2009
Messages
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Location
Malvern, PA USA
Hello All,

If you know me, you know I search ES and ES via Google and have spent about two days trying to absorb several technical threads and posts only to come up with more confusion and options to really pair down into some workable solution.

On a side note, hopefully we will add a knowledge base with Moderators and Technically Advanced People checking posts to the Knowledge Base before committing them to the permanent archive. This is again a side note, if the Mods and Justin wants to allow me, I will code something up and host it myself on my servers (quad redundancy in 4 geographic locations - 3 USA and 1 in Europe) and allow free and advertising or other gimmick free.

So here are my questions, I know they have mostly been asked before but not by me and what I found were infinite answers in threads 43 pages + long so please if you have links to specific answers or want to short form them, please do so this is a simple thread resource for all future members:

1.) BBS-02 : Are there aftermarket crank arms which are a bolt on replacement but stronger for bikes that take a beating or have a powerful or heavy rider?
If these crank arms exist, could you point me to them please with a URL, if more than one... please list em all that you know of. Thanks!

2.) Freewheeling Bottom Brack Crank Sets for 68mm Bottom Brackets
I have read many times of lower end and some upper end freewheeling bottom brackets having bent axles, etc in terms of issues. I know many have done
the hunt for a solution but I have 2 situations:

A.) I need to drive a GNG drive setup to run at 2000w nominal and need to handle that torque - I have chainrings and adapters to compensate for cadence
and gearing

B.) More important I have a dual stage Davinci drive with I believe a maximum reduction of 64 : 1 running a 3220 4T for 7500 RPM at 44.4v nominal
The issue is, even limited to maximum 120A - That makes torque at my freewheeling crank on the order of 320 foot lbs and no load cadence of 117.
Is there a decent freewheeling crankset to support this abuse ?

3.) Ive noticed several GNG and Recumpence v4 and I think even a single stage davinci where the freewheel is embedded into the HTD pulley - great idea, is anyone offering them yet or is there a DIY thread?

Thanks in advance for your assistance, I really did try to sort the mess of threads for my own answers.

-Mike
 
mwkeefer said:
On a side note, hopefully we will add a knowledge base
We have one.
http://endless-sphere.com/w
Feel free to add to it anytime.
 
1) Any square taper crank arm should fit. Just have to mod the right side a bit to make it fit.
 
mwkeefer said:
Hello All,

Ispecific answers or want to short form them, please do so this is a simple thread resource for all future members:

1.) BBS-02 : Are there aftermarket crank arms which are a bolt on replacement but stronger for bikes that take a beating or have a powerful or heavy rider?
If these crank arms exist, could you point me to them please with a URL, if more than one... please list em all that you know of. Thanks!


Howdy!

I just picked up some pre-modified Shimano crank arms from a gasser bike supplier. They are a tad heavier and of much higher quality than the Stock Bafang's. I have not completed my build yet buy they fit a BBS02 perfectly and gave me a better color option. Cost me $40 shipped.

0172.jpg

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/pro...quare_Taper_175mm_with_Axle_Bolts-1124-0.html

My guess is that since they are a custom fab'd part quantities may be limited so at the price you should grab a set. Unicycle crank arms are a good place to look as well, but a heavier set in an appropriate >165mm length are pretty spendy.
 
1.) BBS-02 : Are there aftermarket crank arms which are a bolt on replacement but stronger for bikes that take a beating or have a powerful or heavy rider?

My local bike shop offers Heli-Coil thread replacements for crankarms. It's pretty cheap (they charge $25) and they swear by them. I've used them on a stokemonkey setup before.

So all you'd need are 2 matching left crank arms, and then you'd replace 1 of the pedal threads with a R-hand threaded helicoil.

Presto! Use whatever cranks you want! The real trick is doing it without having to buy 2 full expensive cranksets...
 
FWIW, I used rightside crankarms/pedals on the left side of CrazyBike2's original drivetrain without issue, even when I was pedalling pretty hard, no unscrewing occured.

It's possible that this could still happen to some, and that's why they use the two different threadings, but my limited experience shows it's not a guarantee of failure if you leave the threads as is.

(but it *could* suck if you did have it happen while you're standing on the pedals riding hard)
 
If you mean because of the way it's threaded, then no--it's actually precession that causes them to unscrew, and why they thread them that way (when it seems backwards--even though it's not).

They do come off when used on the wrong sides...just not always.
 
amberwolf said:
If you mean because of the way it's threaded, then no--it's actually precession that causes them to unscrew, and why they thread them that way (when it seems backwards--even though it's not).

They do come off when used on the wrong sides...just not always.

As always, Great Bike Sage Sheldon Brown has an excellent series of explanations as to why different threads on bikes go in unexpected directions! And why left-hand crank arms tend to unscrew themselves... May he RIP.

Savvas.
 
Right hand crank on the left will definitely try to unscrew the pedal. You may be able to prevent it with Loctite. But this only works for symmetrical pedals. No good for clipless pedals.

The Heli-Coil will definitely work. Actually, if you are careful, you can just re-thread the hole for left hand thread. You end up with threads that look like an X, if you look in the hole. All that is required is that you are careful when threading the left hand pedal in. Run it in by hand, before putting a wrench to it, to avoid cross threading. I'd again suggest Loctite.
 
Just ruined BBS02 crank arms... On both sides the thread is worn out, on one completely . 56 km total. :cry:

I'm going to re-thread it tomorrow, but I don't trust them any more. Do anybody have a lead to a reputable seller with good crank arms, which is already made for right and left, so I wouldn't need to re-thread it to X-shape?
 
Abagrizzli said:
Just ruined BBS02 crank arms... On both sides the thread is worn out, on one completely . 56 km total. :cry:

I'm going to re-thread it tomorrow, but I don't trust them any more. Do anybody have a lead to a reputable seller with good crank arms, which is already made for right and left, so I wouldn't need to re-thread it to X-shape?

Loose? Un-tightened or cross-threaded bolts on assembly? Which bits got 'ruined'? I have hundreds of Km on mine and there're AOK.

Savvas.
 
samsavvas said:
Loose? Un-tightened or cross-threaded bolts on assembly? Which bits got 'ruined'? I have hundreds of Km on mine and there're AOK.

Savvas.

To my vast surprise, both of the crank arms are ruined, one has the thread completely smoothed, on the other significantly worn. It is the first time that I see such a damage in such a short period. I'm trying to contact Staton from kmad22 message.
 
Hello,

I just noticed this morning that the left pedal comes loose and it is possible that the threads are damaged.

Do I need a new Bafang crank arm or any crank arm would work?

thanks!
 
European Crank maker Miranda http://service.miranda.net/produtos/18/en/#|0|46|73|0|0|0|0|0|0|0|0|0|0|106| makes ebike cranks in either JIS or ISIS types. you can buy from the site directly and looks like they ship to the US.
 
snowmobile_56308 said:
European Crank maker Miranda http://service.miranda.net/produtos/18/en/#|0|46|73|0|0|0|0|0|0|0|0|0|0|106| makes ebike cranks in either JIS or ISIS types. you can buy from the site directly and looks like they ship to the US.

Wow, beautiful crank arms... Pricey though, and crazy shipping cost.
 
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