Wiring an on off switch into unmarked Chinese controllers

medusa569

100 W
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
161
Location
Washington DC
OK so since my old motor bit the dust I bought the cheap kit from voila ( amazon). It was a 500 watt motor and I have no instruction sheet. I can identify the sensor wires, the power and the phase wires. I think I can identify the sole 3 wired throttle connector and the rest is Greek to me. I'd like to wire in an on off switch for the controller. which wires or position in the controller can i solder this switch to? thank you in
advance.
 
Since you haven't provided us with the switch wiring or type, or any of the actual specific wiring information that you do have, we can't tell you which specific wires to connect to what contact of the switch.

So some questions in the meantime to help you decide how you want it to work.

What do you want to switch for the on/off?

Do you want to completely cut power to the controller? This usually requires a large switch that can handle the full current and voltage the system will ever see, but it completely disconnects the controller from the battery, so it doesn't keep discharging it a little bit constantly.

Or do you want to disable the throttle but leave the controller running? This only requires a tiny switch, and can even be part of the throttle housing, but it leaves the controller powered on all the time, which slowly drains the battery.

Or do you want to do what most controller systems do, which is to cut the battery power to the LVPS that feeds the MCU, etc? Usually this is called KSI, keyswitch, ignition, doorlock, etc. This only requires a tiny switch, and disconnects the highest power drain of the controller from the battery, leaving only the power stage (FETs) connected all the time, which is typically a very tiny drain.
 
<snip> you want to switch for the on/off?

Or do you want to do what most controller systems do, which is to cut the battery power to the LVPS that feeds the MCU, etc? Usually this is called KSI, keyswitch, ignition, doorlock, etc. This only requires a tiny switch, and disconnects the highest power drain of the controller from the battery, leaving only the power stage (FETs) connected all the time, which is typically a very tiny drain.
I'll pick #3 which is most likely what my other controllers likely have had installed. Since I disconnect the battery after each use I just don't want battery current when I don't want it and presently I have no other accessory that deals with on off functions. Just throttle. controller, battery and controller.

PS just listened to some of your music.....really nice dark rain. :)
 
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