Endless Sphere

Couldn't say for that PSU or not, but there's been a lot of discussions about PSUs as chargers, and the things to look for or modify or add. Some of these threads are relevant (not all are) and may help you find a model of PSU that will do what you want. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/search.php?...

The biggest problem for me with them, now, may be that I don't want the CA to be my control interface. They might carry controllers that have their own LCD unit that sets the cotnroller's internal settings instead (like with some of the other kits by other vendors); you'd ahve to ask them if they'r...

I am still confused as to why the MM readings from the plug don't match 8.4v You said that MM read 8.40v--then that is exactly the same as the voltage you are looking for in the sentence quoted above. If instead you mean that the MM is reading the ~10v, then that's probably the "unloaded" voltage (...

I'm looking for a rear hub with real power - Then this one http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-kits/geared/ezee-rear-kit-advanced-pas.html is the same in a rear. The eZee is basically like the MAC and BMC, capable of 1000w; I have an older v1 I'm setting up as the left wheel of my brother's ...

Glad it worked out.

This might prevent it from happening next time

http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicy ... acket.html

If you have to use a kit to upgrade your existing setup, then uf you go with Grin Tech ebikes.ca, you can configure the kits the way you want (if it doesn't show the options you like on the page, they can provide or modify stuff for you; just contact sales@ebikes.ca ). So, for instance, they have a ...

Sounds like a poor connection between motor and controller, probably on the motor side, possibly at the wire exit from the axle (especially if it's been banged up at all there). Most likely it's in the hall wires, if you're able to read voltage across the phase wires. (halls have nothing to do with ...

A note about the wheels: The inboard (original) wheels are slightly off the ground when the trailer is unloaded, but when there's close to 200lbs on the trailer, it flexes enough to put thsoe wheels on the ground, so all four can then spread the load between them. This means there's less rolling res...

Unfortunatley I don't know of any prebuilt bikes that have all of the features you need. :( I wish you were down here; I'd fix up whatever you needed changed on whatever you end up getting, so you wouldn't have to deal with it yourself. If you think it would help you out, since no one local to you h...

That's a nifty idea; it could be used on regular ebike/etc controllers as well, using a transistor to invert the signal and operate the keyswitch/ignition/enable line to shutdown the MCU/gatedrive on those.

The problem with most of the "normal" controllers I have used that have a full-power/speed reverse function, is that this function cannot be engaged until the motor comes to a full and complete stop, whether it's being powered or not. I don't know how representative mine are of the generally availab...

It's also possible that if there isn't *enough* load on the converter, it may have an unstable output, if it's poorly designed.

I want to make it with IMR or LMO batteries as they can discharge alot of amps if needed. If you're looking to use specific cells, then you need to buy those actual cells, or you aren't getting cells that were designed to do those specific ratings. If you buy "clones" then you get whatever they act...

Controller could have a problem sensing the voltage and/or sending the data to the LCD. I have a Fusin controller / LCD (made by LiShui) set, where one controller works normally, and the other (using hte same LCD) doesn't send voltage or speed data to the LCD. The LCD does control the PAS modes/etc ...

Sounds like you might be better off with a middrive, so you can shift gears for that hill (and others like it), and leave the motor in it's efficient speed while the bike goes slow up the hill. A geared hub in the wheel, pushed the same way a DD hub is in the same situation, is more likely to overhe...

I would recommend only *one* thermal blocking (and electrically insulating) material between the FETs and the heatsink, because every layer you add slows down heat transfer. You can use Kapton tape for one of the thinnest such materials, or the typical thin silicone pads. A properly anodized heatsin...

Any BMS could be used at any current level, regen, charge, discharge, etc., as long as external relays (contactors) are used. That's what I pointed out previously.

I run a 16.4v full 4s lighting pack, and the various "12v" led strips and units all run off that ok, though they are pretty warm. ;) They're significantly brighter than at just 12v (though their lifespan is probably reduced, I doubt it will matter). On CrazyBike2, there's a 15v converter running off...

I've considred the solar roof, but unless I got the panels and conversion electronics for free, it's not worth it to me--plug-in electricity is cheap. The trike isn't efficient enough to be fully recharged by solar without a lot of panel, since it's indoors (to protect it from idiots) while I'm at w...

Baron wrote: ↑

Jun 14, 2018 2:05 pm

you could split the battery into two 72V packs, each with their own BMS? which would cut the high amperage requirement in half

And as soon as one cuts out for any reason, the other suddenly is supplying the whole current, and POOF.....

The only stuff you can delete are your own posts--but if you do that, you remove all the reason for anyone to reply or help, as it removes the info someone else could use to know this thread might answer their own similar question. Speaking of similar questions, there is an ongoing thread here: http...

:lol: I actually had a few cars/trucks slow down as they passed me on 31st Ave to yell that out their windows. :) Three different cyclists turned around and followed me at a distance for a bit, during different parts of the ride back, though none approached. Some pedestrians here and there (mostly p...

Or modify the side cover to use a much larger ID bearing on the wire exit side, and a spacer between it's ID and the axle, with large holes in teh spacer for whatever wire gauge you want. Wires no longer run thru axle at all that way. Been a few threads over the years about it, but I don't remember ...

There's always this: http://members.toast.net/joerger/AskAaron/hamburger.html [The Hamburger is Bad!] The Hamburger is Bad We get a lot of questions asking for quite specific recommendations on materials or components that provide far too little information for us to even guess at an answer. This is...

peleap wrote: ↑

Jun 12, 2018 8:46 pm

Can we get a swollen battery?

Why would you want to?

You already have one in this thread.