Endless Sphere

.. 40ish MPH is more than enough Torque 450 N.m is the goal - Yes that is a lot but is what new Electric Trials bike have; so close is goal. I'm not looking to implement on a clutch on this build. I'm not too good with 2 stage reduction, so go big on the motor and just do 10t/50 or more teeth in re...

There’s a link to the battery cover build earlier in this thread. Batteries are mounted high to fit the third module inside the frame later on, each module is 10s/36V. More than three cannot be fitted unless one is stacked on top of the upper two and two more as ”sidebags” in the rear (but i think t...

First driving tonight with the new motor at 72V and the new 1:8 gearing. Thought it was a bit disappointing at first but realised i had restricted settings :D Now it easily pops a wheelie and is more than i can handle since i’ve been going smoothly for too long, throttle needs to be feathered :D 785...

if you only want 40mph top speed then the 3000W motor is enough for most applications, if you gear 1:8 you'll have up to 450-500Nm at the rear wheel

Ugh! Now that's nasty.

yes, off course.. It's a bit stupid but i have no ride now and i normally don't use anything else than the moped. I want to be back riding electric.

amberwolf wrote: ↑

May 19 2020 8:55pm

Had other stuff to say but had an involuntary nap in the middle of typing and can't remember what it was.

I think you were about to tell me about your favourite lethal voltage power connector

What i’ll be running won’t be even close to the limits of the wire insulation. Even the max 32kW is within the boundaries of the specs. What will be the limit is Eddy losses which will increase squared with rpm. The thin laminations, segmented magnets and low pole count of this motor should reduce t...

Cardboard engineering a rear fender mount It’ll be 3d-printed by a friend, always nice to get from design to reality in such a short time

Yes, i know
I increased power usage for a while without issues, then, strangely, i got issues

I like the JWPF connectors for signals, they are super small but the latch easily gets locked by dirt, will try some hirose DF62 for next build, that latch looks better. :thumb: So far i’ve been using anderson pp45 for phase and battery , they melted at 200A (doh!) so i changed to XT150s, been worki...

I always thought about going to higher voltage with the 3000w mid drive. The (low) 5 pole pairs should reduce eddy losses a lot: The 80100 motors with 7 pole pairs top out at 7krpm before eddy losses gets too high (or so i’ve read..) Eddy losses are proportional to pole pairs squared so in compariso...

Yes, agreed, what i mean is that Sabvotons and some Votols have been sold unlocked / under no warranty, user can set a gazillion amps if they want to. In these cases it's the responsibility of the user if they use the controller outside of the max ratings and it blows.

ordered a new DC DC capable of 30s voltage/126V: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000751456728.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.4b863c00U5cR4y&mp=1 Will order three LED drivers and put in series for adjustable charging on the cheap (voltage and current): "Mean Well ELG-150-42AB" has adjustable current and vo...

Crossthreading: https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/v ... hp?t=92316

As always i’m not first

I’m looking at having three ELG-150-42AB in series, would fulfill all requirements i had at 35$ each so basically a configurable charging system at 105$, that’s not bad.

Thanks for the tip, could be good if i was in US!

with shipping to elcon 50$, shipping to me 50$ and reprogramming 100$ (yikes!), then 25% taxes and imports into sweden - then it’s a 400$ charger again - bummer

I don’t see the issue with cc+cv LED drivers without charge cutoff? When battery is at the set voltage on the driver no more current will flow. Might be some losses in the driver but the meanwells seem to be able to take it. Might need some diodes for reverse voltage protection.. need to check this....

Hi, building 30s 30Ah battery, need a charger. Preferably with option to set voltage 120-126V and do currents above 2.5A (so no high power needed) What do you recommend? Been looking at meanwell led drivers 3x42V in series but total cost for the ones i looked at will be 200 usd or so. Isn’t there a ...

Yes, certainly. Only when the controller is unlocked would it be the responsibility of the user to set ”correct” parameters

I’ve had same issue with impossible tires, that time due to low diameter. I could eventually force it on. If the rim is ok in size then i’d scrap the tyre. I didn’t and later failed to fix my flat in the middle of a 3 hour road bike session. Walking in bike shoes that far isn’t so nice

So my gokart is working almost perferc with the em150 and qs 3kw motor. But when i hold full throttle and release the pedal to slow down it keeps on going on full speed even if the pedal isn't pushed in at all. Any body knows the problem Can be phase angle setting not correct or flux weakening too ...

Replacing the pulley motor with the new chain drive. I don’t really know how far it’s been run, guess about 15000-20000 km driving and two winters on salted roads. It has taken it’s toll. Both front and rear pulley is worn out but otherwise it’s running perfectly :D I am really happy with the perfor...

I have run the qs motor at 15kW, even 20kW burst, never overheated it. the 3000w "rating" is on the low side
rotomax 150 won't even get close to the same output and will be weak for a moto build

"brake high" pin is +12V - it still cannot be used to drive a headlight since it likely only can output less than 1A and you'd need several amperes of current.

controller won't be able to power headlights through the internal DC-DC converter, capacity is too low.