Endless Sphere

At those power levels it's probably just getting warm not hot. For some extra cooling add an air deflector on each side to direct more airflow toward the side covers. Less than 5$ of oil 3$ of silicon caulk and my friend's drill would still be cheaper and more effective. :lol: Owning an EV that dri...

At those power levels it's probably just getting warm not hot. For some extra cooling add an air deflector on each side to direct more airflow toward the side covers.

Yes exactly my concern. Heavy loads and long descents demand as much attention be paid to stopping & drag braking as propulsion, with mission-critical reliability required, including redundancy. I am hoping collective wisdom here can reduce the trial and error aspect. I'd look at Nucular controller...

I do have a bunch of old Headways that I could reconfigure for 12V pack as a winter project, but then I need a 12V BMS and a new charger, also a reasonable proposition. Or I could just buy a big lithium 12V LiFP04 (100amp hours) made for this purpose I suppose. A 4s pack like that needs no BMS. You...

...high RPM where the cooling will be most necessary. Extra cooling is most needed at low rpm with high load, which equates to high torque needs (high current) and low power output (power = torque X rpm), so it is low efficiency (lots of heat). At high rpm the motor runs lower current and has bette...

If you can seal the motor cover well and use just enough oil fill the magnet gap when it’s running it might work out ok. With a direct drive motor you don’t need to use too much oil. It will spread out when the motor runs sort of like ferrofluid. What I'm really interested in is the liquid fill of ...

Be sure to know the capabilities of the controller regarding regen. Some have "plug braking" in combination with regen, where electric braking will continue at low rpm and/or max charge voltage is reached. These along with controllers where regen works down to zero have issues with heat dissipation....

Sounds like a bad idea to me. First, isn't the 100V solar charge controller meant to charge a higher voltage bank of lead acid than a single 12V battery? Second, the voltage of the lithium pack doesn't seem like a good match. Third, what limits the current, since the ebike pack can deliver enough cu...

A trip to the bathroom makes more difference, except the effect on your wallet.

Waterproof Durable (metal not plastic) Tube only so can install own grips Long turn (or adjustable turn length if possible) Adjustable min and max voltage output (to tune to match controller) Adjustable shape of throttle curve (or just make slope shallower for first 10-20% of response Slightly stron...

I've seen as high as 25% regen on flat terrain. That's with lots of stop-n-go, no pedaling and ebraking as much as possible. 22% regen in the city with lots of pedaling seems quite reasonable to me in city riding where cruising at a constant speed is almost non-existent.

I like the kind none of the big companies are building. :bigthumb: I like the one that my blood, sweat, and tears went into, with the goal of making a machine that has no parallel, and is perfect in my eyes. You can't sell me one of those. +1 Nothing beats the satisfaction of using something you bu...

$1000 isn't terrible considering what people have paid for low quality Craplyte motors over the years. Regarding QS I haven't heard about quality issues unlike so many others with their broken axles and unglued magnets, but QS run heavier, which really only matters off-road, on bad roads, or if you ...

The small DD hub motors I've looked at are really inefficient. Like 60-74%. I don't know if that is due to manufactures not caring or it is something intrinsic to the design... It's just a matter of going for as cheap as possible. They have too thick and low quality steel in the stator lams, and sp...

Yes adding motor is better than adding multiple gears but a single-ratio reduction tends to make sense for the highest power to weight motors that spin very fast. You were just talking about multiple speed reductions right? Just multi-speed. Decreasing motor size for the same power requires higher ...

DDs of today barely pass the 90% efficiency mark but IMHO we haven't seen a mid drive that can even peak at 90% yet - maybe some of the astro mid drives do? ( $$$$ ) Astro can do that driving a propeller but on a ebike the reduction eats that up to the point where you're back at a good hub motor. J...

I've read thru all the diagrams people have posted.& can't seem to find the diagram Im after. anyone running a q.s v3 motor with crystalytes 72v 60amp controller.. thanks in advance. So much time wasted on something I'd never trust anyway. With a few alligator clip jumper wires it's so easy to be c...

What if we not only kept the gears, we added more, but pulled them out of the motor body as a separate transmission component? Arguably the reason for DD weight and inefficiency and geared hub fragility is that they have to operate at suboptimal speeds, and hence the attraction of crank drives. A l...

This is mostly been about over-price toys vs economical basic transportation. I do however take exception with with the preponderance of geared hubbies that have come to dominate the ebike market, because they can never be nearly as durable as a direct drive motor. If a western company wants to be i...

spinningmagnets wrote: ↑

Aug 04 2019 7:10pm

I have three cars...

We have to help you cure that illness.

Other than being an irritating sound, there's no issue at all. It's just the controller being unsure rotor position due to rpm being still too low, so it fires a few out of sequence pulses causing sound in the motor. A slightly slower turn of the throttle during the first revolution of the tire can ...

With the demise of BionX and now GoSwiss, is the hub motor industry dying. Are mid-drives the way of the future? I have two BionX systems purchased six months before they went out of business. Batteries and other parts are becoming very scarce. I do enjoy DIY projects, I also like the security of h...

MadRhino is spot on. That motor needs a lot more battery or you're just carrying a bunch of motor weight for nothing. Your battery can't deliver enough current and with only 12ah you couldn't have fun for long even if it could. You also need a much higher power controller. As far as estimating range...

How much do you weigh and do you plan to pedal along (though pedaling at 30mph and up is of questionable help)? I ask because the all up load and whether or not it's motor only during acceleration have a drastic affect of the system requirements in city riding. At least you don't have hills to speak...

amberwolf wrote: ↑

Aug 01 2019 1:13am

Swap any two of the three thick wires going to the motor--it's probably a geared hubmotor and running backwards.

+1

Another simple answer may be that the controller has an ignition wire to turn the controller on, which needs to connect to battery positive.