Endless Sphere

Also wondering what size tyre to get. The seller lists it as 85mm across but as you can see it isn't actually. I have up to 4" clearance in the dropouts so was thinking of some 90/90 tyres like these https://www.tyretectrading.co.uk/cst-c6 ... front.html ?

Oh well, I've bought the spokes now but I'll remember that for the future. There's loads of clearance between the spokes and the spoke holes so that isn't an issue, I just need to redo it so that the angle of the spokes matches the angle of the rim hole. As I've started tensioning the spokes, the've...

What spoke gauge are you using? 12 gauge I think I'm getting somewhere and realised I wasn't threading the spoke under another spoke on the 'loose' side. I still don't think I'm doing it right as there is a lot of tension and the spokes still look bent. Hopefully the photos show the right angles bu...

I'm at the stage of my build where I am trying to build the front wheel. I've bought an 18" rim and a Vector hub (room for 2 discs https://vectorebike.com/bike/other/disc-front-hub).Once they arrived I took some measurements and have settled on 193mm spokes after deciding on doing a 2 cross lac...

I use a sabvoton and there's a connector called 'e-lock' which disables the controller until the two wires are connected by the ignition switch. Your controller might have a similar connector or it might not need one in which case it isn't needed.

I was testing my motor a few weeks ago and used some jumper wires between the Sabvoton and the motor. I only found out after I 'killed' my sabvoton that one of the wires had a very high resistance so must have confused the controller into sending out power? Anyway, I've been diagnosing and testing e...

Well this is embarassing... :lol: Turns out I was using a faulty wire between the VESC and the motor. Now the motor spins normally but the Sabvoton still got damaged somehow :confused: . I'm trying to figure out what's gone wrong. It seems to try to start up but then very quickly turns off and repea...

I need to add some ferrofluid to my wheel at some point anyway so I decided to practice getting the motor open. First I tried using a crowbar but popped off the wrong side (wire side) :roll: ! I then used a gear puller to properly remove the stator and it all seemed fine. There are a few potential i...

Sounds like 18" is the better option for the better acceleration and wider availability. Thanks

I'm at that stage in my build where I need to choose the rims and tyres and can't decide whether to go for 19" or 18" rims. I was originally going to buy a set of rims and tyres that were 19" for the convenience, but I've looked around and found some good deals on 18" rims. I kno...

Ok thanks, sounds like some good advice. Hopefully it will never actually be needed but it's not like I'm putting 200v through it so I think I'll stick with it.

I'm thinking of putting a circuit breaker in series with my main positive power wire just in case the controller and BMS went bang, it would be an additional way of saving the battery. I've found this (https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/200-amp-surface-mount-circuit-breaker) which offers the current I wo...

I think that most large gauge connectors are crimp because of how hard it would be to heat large scale connectors. Can you imagine the size of iron you would need for 4, 2, 1 or larger gauge wire? The copper would suck the heat away like crazy! Crimping works great when properly done. Precisely! Ni...

I like XT150's. Easy to disconnect and pretty easy to solder if you have a decent iron. You never see a solder-only high current connector in industrial machinery. Crimping is not only much faster and easier to do, it’s also much more reliable. I like the form factor of XT90s etc., but I would only...

Tommm wrote: ↑

Jul 22 2020 12:35pm

These and the anderson look terrible from a water/dustproofing standpoint. Just huge ugly blocky plastics. Not for ebikes.

It's all in an enclosed metal frame (enduro frame) so I'm not worried about water and dust

Ok, I think anderson it is! I've already bought a hydraulic crimp for some lugs so I can use that. Thanks for the help!

Hopefully I won't have to disconnect very often at all, but as I said it's a tight space so the way the andersons clip together is very appealing. I also need something that can be crimped to and not sure if the bullet connectors offer that?

...8 kw ebike ...150A ...3-4 AWG wires Up the planned voltage. You will save money and weight in wiring alone. :D Andersons are expansive but hard to beat for safety and reliability. Any big crimped connector in a safe housing will be expansive. I wish I could, but the batteries I've chosen are hig...

Hi everyone, I'm building my own 8wk ebike and have got to the point where I need to put connectors on the ends of the battery pack. Originally I was thinking of using anderson connectors as they looked very suitable and easy to use. However given that I need them to carry 150a and fit a 3-4awg wire...

Yes, thanks for pointing that out. When I thought about it (I've ordered the cells now) I realised it would mean only having to run the balance leads once, and the 2p busbars were cheaper so win win!

After a lot of research, I've settled on some CO20b cells that jimbob01 is selling here on the forum. They offer incredible capacity and discharge (40Ah and >200A discharge for just a 2p pack!) I'm building a high power ebike, hopefully around 8kW and just wanted to see if anyone could see a reason ...

As it's going to be in the bike, I'd ideally have a single charge port and do it through the BMS rather than having to connect wires to the individual packs. This (https://www.cloudsto.com/ebikes/bms-1/smart-bms-8-24s-for-vbms-detail.html) is the bms I want to use and it has 200mA balance current an...

I am building an ebike and plan to use some C020 high capacity lipo cells at 14s 2p to give me <200A continuous discharge and 40Ah! (I only plan to use 150A max so should be a breeze for these!) Due to the size of the frame opening, I cannot create 1 large pack with two rows of 14 cells. I am going ...

The more I think about it, the more I'm leaning towards the c020 cells. They offer great energy density for the price and can easily be bolted together for easy maintenance or upgrades.If I was going to use li-ion, it would probably be the 40T but interesting to hear that some cells often fail in a ...

Thanks for pointing out the Samsung 40!. As you say it is basically identical apart from being 4000mAh instead of 4200. I'd probably trust it more than the molicel if they are a clone anyway. Same price as well. I'll look in to them a bit more