Endless Sphere

About 0.3" last night. Chance for a little more next week.

The local water utility issued a drought statement. It's always an excuse to raise the rates.

You only need the 5 hall wires for the motor to run. Most controllers use a hall signal to calculate speed. The white wire is most likely a temperature sensor. You could try measuring resistance from the white wire to the black wire going to the motor. Typical temp sensor is around 10k ohms. Some cr...

I was trying to think of another test for the core material. One would be to take a core with a bunch of skinny wire turns and feed it a constant current that will come close to saturation, then measure how much pull you get against a piece of thick steel. Repeat with a steel core using same turns c...

That one is going to miss up here. But we'll get a couple of weak fronts over the weekend and into next week. We are way behind average for rain this year.

The hall sensor signal line is pulled up by a resistor in the controller and the sensor pulls it down. If that resistor was bad, the signal would stay low. If the hall sensor wiring was shorted to ground somewhere, you'd also see the signal stay low. One test would be to place a 10k or so resistor b...

I'd guess there is a wire that goes from the throttle switch back to the controller. You should be able to find that wire on the controller end and see that it gets power when the switch is turned on.

If you don't see any signs of life on the throttle pins, I'd look at tracing out the power on both switches. Try to see where stops.

Finding that piece of wire would be hard. Maybe try posting in the Items Wanted section of the forum and try to find someone that has a fried BBSHD with a good cable. I would just cut out the damaged section and solder the wires back together with heat shrink tubing around them and try it. Depending...

I would try unplugging the throttle and measure the pins coming from the controller. You should see something around 5v on one.

I’m not familiar with the Sondors. How do you turn it on? Does anything light up?

Good ending.

If the specs in that datasheet are the right ones for that board, it would trip at 30A. The BMS measures the current by measuring the voltage across the two shunt resistor near the B- connection. You can change the trip point by changing those resistors. It's not a bad idea to use fuses anyway in ca...

When you apply power to a pair of phase wires and let the rotor find it's spot, one hall sensor needs to be exactly half way between a pair of magnets (right at the trigger point for the hall). Use other phase wire combinations to find the other spots. If the rotor lines up so a pair of magnets is p...

Getting there! Still anxious to see the first test ride results.

But you need those brakes. Don't want to end up like Tiger Woods.

That's interesting. I don't immediately see why making it rounded is better. Their comment about lower permeability seems to match with your test results. But you have awesome low iron losses. To make it run faster, you could also reduce the turns.

Are you using delta or wye connection?

Another thing I've seen done is to hack off the end of a USB cable and use the 5v through a resistor to charge a single cell. Somewhere around a 10 ohm resistor that's physically large should work. The resistor will get pretty hot. You have to watch the voltage like a hawk to make sure it doesn't go...

It's possible those parts were just jumpers. Also known as zero ohm resistors. In your case, fuses.

It's always fun to resurrect something that looked hopeless. It may be just fine now as long as whatever originally blew them doesn't happen again. Something like a pinched wire could do that.

Most chargers cut off way before balancing is finished. A bunch of shallow discharges followed by charges is about the only thing you can do with most. If you had a way to pump a constant 30mA or so into the pack and the balancing shunts will work full time.

BCTECH wrote: ↑

Feb 22 2021 3:52pm

tks. the odd shape of the kickstand will be hard to drill / tap straight
[/quote]

I'd take the stand off the bike and put it in a vice and drill from the bottom where it's flat. It doesn't need to be perfectly level.

Forgive me since I'm not super electrically inclined, but would something like this work? https://www.daygreen.com/products/48v-60v-72v-to-12v-50a-600w-dc-dc-step-down-converter-voltage-regulator-w-acc-swtich?variant=11912134950959 My Minn Kota only pulls something like 40 amps at 12v max I think? ...

I measured those parts on a good board and they both measured near zero ohms. My best guess is they are inductors. You probably have a short downstream of them, most likely the voltage regulator, and they acted like fuses.

If you can bring up the low cells, it might actually work OK. It's not uncommon for cells 1-3 being lower than the rest due to the BMS draining those more than the others during storage. Ideally use a bench power supply or a single cell charger and try to get them closer to the others.

In an actual test, you don't want to be using a 1 ohm resistor.

I've done a similar setup before but using a little 9v battery as a source. Most hall switches are rated for 24v.

Just barely enough to wet the ground Friday night and nothing in the forecast for at least a week. Nice day for riding today. The hills are turning green barely.

140F would be no problem for most batteries as long as you don't keep them that hot for weeks at a time. It easily gets that hot just sitting in the sun on a hot day. Your particular batteries should have a storage temperature specification you can look up on a datasheet.

Not sure I follow that, but at a lower pack voltage, the bike won't be able to consume as much power or go as fast, so consumption will be lower. Slower bike gets better range. On many controllers, it's possible to change the low voltage cutoff point by simply changing a resistor. On some of the new...