Hello

Hickbeard

100 W
Joined
Nov 30, 2019
Messages
186
Not sure if this is the worst start in history!

Is there an introductions area? Can't find it for the life of me!

If so I have failed on every level and will leave immediately lol. [emoji2357]

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https://endless-sphere.com/forums/

:D :bolt:
 
Also depends on what you are trying to do. Specific questions get specific answers. I suggest looking around where I sent you to get your ideas clearer, then ask some questions.

:D :bolt:
 
Don't go too low power!
Don't cheap out!
Electric costs money, so spend wisely.

Lots of Britons are scared to achieve 251W, but if you ride with common sense and courtesy, no need to be scared of buying a 1000W or 1500W system for your bicycle. Other places it says 500W or 750W, no one knows anything especially on the street, or donut eaters.
 
e-beach said:
Also depends on what you are trying to do. Specific questions get specific answers. I suggest looking around where I sent you to get your ideas clearer, then ask some questions.

:D :bolt:
Argh gotcha. All good will do.

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spinningmagnets said:
Welcome to endless-sphere. Do you already have an electric bicycle, or some type of EV?
You sir are the reason I am here. Your 3 part battery articles are awesome and what led me to join. So thank you very much. And a pleasure to meet you. I'll answer your Q below

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amberwolf said:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82507
Thanks Amber.

I've had a read and have bookmarked it also

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I used to have a second hand pedalease 48v 1000w bike. Pretty crappy to be fair but did 25mph.

I've decided on a couple projects. Quick one, monster and some sort of modular system that can be moved from bike to go kart to quad, etc (probably never happen but meh).

I have an abandoned hire bike (obike) big chunky frame so am going to turn this into a quick ebike build. Then when that is up and running we have started designs for a 4m+ e-chopper build.

The hire bike plan is currently as follows.

Have bought 70 Sanyo 18650GA to make 13s5p battery. Undecided on vruzend or the 3d printed ones from the guy from here. If I can print them at work it'll be them.

Looking at 1500w hub motor. Was thinking generic ebay but have looked at leaf so weighing up options/cost.
Controller still researching but most likely whatever comes with a kit.
Throttle, etc probably same to start with.

I'll add some pics next week probably in a build thread.

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Looking at 1500w hub motor

When the majority of Chinese manufacturers call a certain hubmotor a 1500W, they typically mean that it has a 35mm wide stator. The stator makes up the steel cores to the electromagnets, but rather than a solid chunk of steel, they are made up of a stack of thin sheets called laminations. This reduces "eddy current" heat.

The common affordable hubmotors have laminations that are 0.50mm thick, and the "Leafbike" 1500W is verified to use the thinner 0.35mm laminations. Doing that adds slightly to the cost, but reduces the waste heat compared to the 0.50mm lams.

If you live on reasonably flat land and will only use 1500W peak while accelerating, then motor-heat is likely to be low enough that the cheaper generic motor would be fine. However, if you want to leave yourself some head-room for hot-rodding later, the small additional cost of the Leafbike hub might be worth it.

Another hot-rodding upgrade would be to add 10ml-15ml of Ferro-fluid to the inside of the hubmotor. It allows the heat from the stator to connect to the aluminium sideplates, turning the sideplates into a radiator.

A while back I wrote about a 1500W hubmotor with a thick aluminum base at the center of the stator. Locating a mass of aluminum there acts as a heat-sponge to soak up acceleration heat, and then dissipate it over time as you cruise along. It does make the motor heavier and more expensive, but I am happy with it. I've had no reason to get rid of it, but if I was building a street commuter today, I would use a fast-winding of Leafbike 1500W hub in a smaller rim, and add ferro-fluid.

Style5.png
 
Thanks spinningmagnets.

That's handy to know.

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spinningmagnets said:
Looking at 1500w hub motor

When the majority of Chinese manufacturers call a certain hubmotor a 1500W, they typically mean that it has a 35mm wide stator. The stator makes up the steel cores to the electromagnets, but rather than a solid chunk of steel, they are made up of a stack of thin sheets called laminations. This reduces "eddy current" heat.

The common affordable hubmotors have laminations that are 0.50mm thick, and the "Leafbike" 1500W is verified to use the thinner 0.35mm laminations. Doing that adds slightly to the cost, but reduces the waste heat compared to the 0.50mm lams.

If you live on reasonably flat land and will only use 1500W peak while accelerating, then motor-heat is likely to be low enough that the cheaper generic motor would be fine. However, if you want to leave yourself some head-room for hot-rodding later, the small additional cost of the Leafbike hub might be worth it.

Another hot-rodding upgrade would be to add 10ml-15ml of Ferro-fluid to the inside of the hubmotor. It allows the heat from the stator to connect to the aluminium sideplates, turning the sideplates into a radiator.

A while back I wrote about a 1500W hubmotor with a thick aluminum base at the center of the stator. Locating a mass of aluminum there acts as a heat-sponge to soak up acceleration heat, and then dissipate it over time as you cruise along. It does make the motor heavier and more expensive, but I am happy with it. I've had no reason to get rid of it, but if I was building a street commuter today, I would use a fast-winding of Leafbike 1500W hub in a smaller rim, and add ferro-fluid.

Style5.png

Can this hub motor handle 3kw continuous with statorade?
 
Endlessphere23 said:
spinningmagnets said:
Looking at 1500w hub motor

When the majority of Chinese manufacturers call a certain hubmotor a 1500W, they typically mean that it has a 35mm wide stator. The stator makes up the steel cores to the electromagnets, but rather than a solid chunk of steel, they are made up of a stack of thin sheets called laminations. This reduces "eddy current" heat.

The common affordable hubmotors have laminations that are 0.50mm thick, and the "Leafbike" 1500W is verified to use the thinner 0.35mm laminations. Doing that adds slightly to the cost, but reduces the waste heat compared to the 0.50mm lams.

If you live on reasonably flat land and will only use 1500W peak while accelerating, then motor-heat is likely to be low enough that the cheaper generic motor would be fine. However, if you want to leave yourself some head-room for hot-rodding later, the small additional cost of the Leafbike hub might be worth it.

Another hot-rodding upgrade would be to add 10ml-15ml of Ferro-fluid to the inside of the hubmotor. It allows the heat from the stator to connect to the aluminium sideplates, turning the sideplates into a radiator.

A while back I wrote about a 1500W hubmotor with a thick aluminum base at the center of the stator. Locating a mass of aluminum there acts as a heat-sponge to soak up acceleration heat, and then dissipate it over time as you cruise along. It does make the motor heavier and more expensive, but I am happy with it. I've had no reason to get rid of it, but if I was building a street commuter today, I would use a fast-winding of Leafbike 1500W hub in a smaller rim, and add ferro-fluid.

Style5.png



Can this hub motor handle 3kw continuous with statorade?
Hell yeah it will do it without statorade or sinks..... I push 7Kw through mine. No prob. QS makes a 200$ copy of taht.
 
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