That just takes me to where I'm at! [emoji848]e-beach said:https://endless-sphere.com/forums/
Loks fine to me.Hickbeard said:Not sure if this is the worst start in history!
Is there an introductions area? Can't find it for the life of me!
If so I have failed on every level and will leave immediately lol. [emoji2357]
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Argh gotcha. All good will do.e-beach said:Also depends on what you are trying to do. Specific questions get specific answers. I suggest looking around where I sent you to get your ideas clearer, then ask some questions.
You sir are the reason I am here. Your 3 part battery articles are awesome and what led me to join. So thank you very much. And a pleasure to meet you. I'll answer your Q belowspinningmagnets said:Welcome to endless-sphere. Do you already have an electric bicycle, or some type of EV?
Thanks Amber.amberwolf said:https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82507
Looking at 1500w hub motor
spinningmagnets said:Looking at 1500w hub motor
When the majority of Chinese manufacturers call a certain hubmotor a 1500W, they typically mean that it has a 35mm wide stator. The stator makes up the steel cores to the electromagnets, but rather than a solid chunk of steel, they are made up of a stack of thin sheets called laminations. This reduces "eddy current" heat.
The common affordable hubmotors have laminations that are 0.50mm thick, and the "Leafbike" 1500W is verified to use the thinner 0.35mm laminations. Doing that adds slightly to the cost, but reduces the waste heat compared to the 0.50mm lams.
If you live on reasonably flat land and will only use 1500W peak while accelerating, then motor-heat is likely to be low enough that the cheaper generic motor would be fine. However, if you want to leave yourself some head-room for hot-rodding later, the small additional cost of the Leafbike hub might be worth it.
Another hot-rodding upgrade would be to add 10ml-15ml of Ferro-fluid to the inside of the hubmotor. It allows the heat from the stator to connect to the aluminium sideplates, turning the sideplates into a radiator.
A while back I wrote about a 1500W hubmotor with a thick aluminum base at the center of the stator. Locating a mass of aluminum there acts as a heat-sponge to soak up acceleration heat, and then dissipate it over time as you cruise along. It does make the motor heavier and more expensive, but I am happy with it. I've had no reason to get rid of it, but if I was building a street commuter today, I would use a fast-winding of Leafbike 1500W hub in a smaller rim, and add ferro-fluid.
Hell yeah it will do it without statorade or sinks..... I push 7Kw through mine. No prob. QS makes a 200$ copy of taht.Endlessphere23 said:spinningmagnets said:Looking at 1500w hub motor
When the majority of Chinese manufacturers call a certain hubmotor a 1500W, they typically mean that it has a 35mm wide stator. The stator makes up the steel cores to the electromagnets, but rather than a solid chunk of steel, they are made up of a stack of thin sheets called laminations. This reduces "eddy current" heat.
The common affordable hubmotors have laminations that are 0.50mm thick, and the "Leafbike" 1500W is verified to use the thinner 0.35mm laminations. Doing that adds slightly to the cost, but reduces the waste heat compared to the 0.50mm lams.
If you live on reasonably flat land and will only use 1500W peak while accelerating, then motor-heat is likely to be low enough that the cheaper generic motor would be fine. However, if you want to leave yourself some head-room for hot-rodding later, the small additional cost of the Leafbike hub might be worth it.
Another hot-rodding upgrade would be to add 10ml-15ml of Ferro-fluid to the inside of the hubmotor. It allows the heat from the stator to connect to the aluminium sideplates, turning the sideplates into a radiator.
A while back I wrote about a 1500W hubmotor with a thick aluminum base at the center of the stator. Locating a mass of aluminum there acts as a heat-sponge to soak up acceleration heat, and then dissipate it over time as you cruise along. It does make the motor heavier and more expensive, but I am happy with it. I've had no reason to get rid of it, but if I was building a street commuter today, I would use a fast-winding of Leafbike 1500W hub in a smaller rim, and add ferro-fluid.
Can this hub motor handle 3kw continuous with statorade?