BikeVirgin said:
Ok I'm currently riding 11miles each day.
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I didn't want to limit myself to such a short range. I would like to be able to get 22 miles + so I don't have to charge battery every evening.
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I was wanting to reach up to 30mph +
Keep in mind you'll likely need better tires, wheels and brakes (and possibly suspension) for those speeds than common bicycles generally have, unless you have perfect roads. If they're like the roads around here, or worse, one good pothole or bigger chunk of road debris could end your ride in a hurry. No idea what you've already got for a bike, or how experienced you are at those kinds of speeds on a bicycle, but it's a lot different at those speeds vs typical pedal speeds--even 20MPH is a significantly different (easier) ride than just 30.
That said, assuming your gearing is correct from the cyclone to the wheel, then assuming that speed is on the flats only, no wind, with a typical upright position on a typical mountain bike, and assuming no contribution from pedalling at that speed, it'll take around 1000w at the motor to maintain 30MPH. The battery will have to supply around 1200W, depending on efficiency of the system, to get that 1000w. (so there's at least 200w of heat lost between battery, controller, motor). Simulation using default hubmotor and controller, 72v 23Ah battery out of the list:
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?axis=mph&hp=0&batt=B7223_AC&autothrot=true&throt=62.8
Estimated wh/mile is 41.
To go 35mph, same sitaution otherwise, it'll take around 1500w at the motor, and 2000w at the battery. Simulation same as above but for the faster speed it required a bigger controller, so it uses the 40A:
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?axis=mph&hp=0&batt=B7223_AC&autothrot=true&throt=75.6&cont=C40
Estimated wh/mile is 53.8.
So for 30mph, assuming continous at that speed on flat / no wind, for all 11 miles, would take at least 11 * 41 = 451wh of battery. double the range would take double the wh, so just round it up to 1000wh (1kwh). If it's a 72v system, then that's 1000 / 72 = 13.89, round that up to 14Ah. So a 72v 14Ah battery to do that.
If it's a 52v system, then 1000 / 52 = 19.2Ah. So your existing battery would *almost* do that, range-wise. Whether it would handle the power demands depends on how well it's built, etc.
It's mainly flat some slight climbs, Very little stopping.
That should save you some battery capacity, and some heat buildup in the system. It also means you don't need much of a system to do what you want. The Cyclone would be overkill, if it's actually capable of 3000w continuous (but overkill is good because it means it doesn't have to work nearly as hard as otherwise to do it's job).
So far, a common hubmotor system, like the 1500w Leaf kit (see Neptronix' big thread), would do what you're after, as long as the controller can put out the power needed, and the battery is high enough voltage (52v is probably not enough, probably need 72v for 30MPH+. The cyclone and ohter middrives can be geared to give whatever speed out of whatever voltage, more or less, but a hubmotor in a wheel doesn't really have that option).
(below edited; had wrong value for a stone)
19 x 14lbs is about 266lbs. Add another say 40-60lbs of bike, motor, battery, and you're well over 300lbs.
I think you're going to want good suspension, wheels, tires, and brakes to be going 30mph--better than I was imagining when I started replying above.
My CrazyBike2 plus me (at something under 200lbs) is around 400lbs, and 20MPH is about as fast as I would want to take it on roads here, with the basic front suspension and no rear suspension it has. I've had it up to over 30MPH on a kart race track, which is very smooth, and it works fine there (other than losing traction in turns, wrong tire choice). But on regular roads, all the bumps, waves, holes, debris, etc., bounces the bike all over teh place, and could make it difficult to handle at anything much over 20.
My SB Cruiser trike is another hundred pounds heavier, and it still bounces around on the roads even at 20MPH.
I think the controller is the yuyangking Bluetooth programmable. Not sure what can be changed in the settings as I haven't got the motor or controller yet.
You should ask the seller, because they should have documentation for all of that on their website, and should be able to answer direct questions from you about such things. If they don't or can't or won't, it's going to be difficult for you to do much of anything with the system, other than whatever it came preprogrammed for.
Not sure how fast or range I could achieve with current battery!
Speed depends on the gearing you choose for the cyclone's output to your bike's drivetrain input, and the gearing from there to the rear wheel, as well as the rear wheel size.
So if it's not fast enough you can change the gearing to fix that, but at the cost of startup torque at lower speeds.
Range depends on actual battery capacity at the high current draw, and the actual speeds you go, terrain, wind, etc., but assuming the previous math is close to reality, you could get 15-20 miles out of it at the 30mph-ish speed, more if you go slower.
I know that Luna cycle recommend at least a 52v 20 ah battery with 40a continuous or more. That's why I thought I would need to change battery. ( That said the basic kit comes with a 35a controller) not 60a. I chose the 60a programmable so it could give me flexibility!
Depends on what that controller is actually settable to. It should be able to limit down to next to no current, in theory, so it ought to be settable to match whatever battery you've got (untl you get a better one if you end up needing to).
It also depends on what voltage the controller is capable of; some of them have a hardwired minimum voltage (LVC) so if yours is higher than what your battery's range of voltage is, it either won't work with it or it won't be able to use all of the battery's capacity (the contorller will shutdown when the battery drops below that LVC).
I was concerned that if I didn't use the correct battery that I would damage it.
If you pull more current from it than it can actually handle, then yes, damage can occur. If it's protected against overcurrent, it'll shutdown and the motor will stop, so no damage will occur.