Mac motor options for stop and go traffic

Kemosabe70

10 W
Joined
Jun 13, 2020
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I’ve got a Luna Wolf Pack v2 52v 13.5ah pack on a Wyatt Street King (steel 700c single speed that weighs roughly 24 pounds and I weigh about 210 pounds) I’ll be riding it around on the smooth pavement of NYC with lots of stop and go traffic, I don’t want to exert too much effort, I want good acceleration from 0, be able to get over the Williamsburg bridge easily (not that steep) and don’t realistically have a need to exceed 20mph, but 25mph would be nice.

I don’t know which motor would be best a 10t or a 12t...or something else?

Also, em3ev doesn’t seem to offer a display for this kit...I wouldn’t mind getting just the motor and rim at em3ev and the rest of the stuff from ebikes.ca or somewhere else. What would be the optimal controller and compatible display for my set up with your recommended motor?
 
Kemosabe70 said:
I’ve got a Luna Wolf Pack v2 52v 13.5ah pack on a Wyatt Street King (steel 700c single speed that weighs roughly 24 pounds and I weigh about 210 pounds) I’ll be riding it around on the smooth pavement of NYC with lots of stop and go traffic, I don’t want to exert too much effort, I want good acceleration from 0, be able to get over the Williamsburg bridge easily (not that steep) and don’t realistically have a need to exceed 20mph, but 25mph would be nice.

I don’t know which motor would be best a 10t or a 12t...or something else?

Also, em3ev doesn’t seem to offer a display for this kit...I wouldn’t mind getting just the motor and rim at em3ev and the rest of the stuff from ebikes.ca or somewhere else. What would be the optimal controller and compatible display for my set up with your recommended motor?

No one likes to pedal mate, no one. Throttle only is the way to go!
Displays are matched with the controller, not necessarily the motor.

Yeah even for NYC, I'd say you want to be able to go 40kph(25mph) max, but I dont really know what the street level traffic is like there. Is it just every block a red light or are there stretches of 4 blocks that are synchornized because you really do want to keep up with traffic, some like to keep ahead of traffic, others like to keep up with traffic.

48V or 52V system would do you well, which you have and is 13.5Ah if that suits your distance requirements with room to spare then thats good. You always want room to spare for the battery pack. You might want to get another battery if your total distance is more then a 13.5Ah battery can handle, depends on speed, hills.

10T or 12T wind will be than 8T. In general, lower wind counts is greater top speed, higher wind counts is greater torque.

Go here
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
click on more motors at the bottom of the motor list.
MAC 6/8/10 and 12T are listed.

Heck even go here, put your route in the map
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/trip-simulator.html

Have fun.
 
Sometimes I get lucky, other times I stop at every intersection.

That simulator is really tricky to get going and to be honest I don’t fully understand it.
 
Kemosabe70 said:
Sometimes I get lucky, other times I stop at every intersection.

That simulator is really tricky to get going and to be honest I don’t fully understand it.

You need to play with it for a bit.

What is tricky about it?
For routing, you need to click on starting spot, then click ending spot, then move the route inbetween to the route you are taking.
Everything else should be self explainatory, except for maybe an equivelant motor, or which controller to choose on the list or what battery.

I usually put 0W for Human power input
Then for me I put in 190kg yes I know its a lot
26" wheel
so on so forth
 
I have been for weeks, I get the most range out of the 12t I guess that's what I should go for.

Do you have a recommendation for a controller and display that would be sort of plug and play?
I dont want to have to solder any wires if possible.

Also, does the cycle analyst count as a display? Should I get one?
 
Kemosabe70 said:
I have been for weeks, I get the most range out of the 12t I guess that's what I should go for.

Do you have a recommendation for a controller and display that would be sort of plug and play?
I dont want to have to solder any wires if possible.

Also, does the cycle analyst count as a display? Should I get one?

I wouldnt bother getting a display of any sort. The less things stick out about your bike the better!
After awhile you just get a feel for how far you can go on an ebike.
If you want it for speed, a small cycle computer is fine.
Otherwise, get a KT display for the PAS if thats what you want. Not sure what EM3EV has for PAS.

Then get the 12T MAC from EM3EV, and get their Controller and battery, but you already have a battery so plug and play will be challenging. What connectors are on your battery now? Get EM3EV to match the connectors.
 
That’s a good point, but I do want PAS, I have a xt90 connector for my battery so it might not be realistic to not have to solder.
 
This USA company has a plug and play kit that seems to offer the features that you want. They build top quality wheels for your needs. Customer support is also first class. https://www.ebikekit.com/collections/e-bikekit-performance-no-battery/products/e-bikekit-performance-rear-no-battery
 
aroundqube said:
This USA company has a plug and play kit that seems to offer the features that you want. They build top quality wheels for your needs. Customer support is also first class. https://www.ebikekit.com/collections/e-bikekit-performance-no-battery/products/e-bikekit-performance-rear-no-battery

Seems like the motor would be way too wide for my set up.
 
Kemosabe70 said:
Also, I would appreciate an accurate reading of where the battery is at.

If it has an LED meter on the side of the battery, that's generally good enough for most uses, as long as you are not riding it to empty most of the time. So you probably don't need a meter on the handlebars for this.

Keep in mind that no meter can tell you what the battery's present state is, directly.

You can use a wattmeter that can read negative Ah (or Wh), and detect current in both directions, *and* that remembers all of it's readings when power is disconnected (like the CA and some of the cheap wattmeters--many don't). Then there are a couple ways to "track" the battery capacity.

Drain the battery completely till it shuts down, then reset the meter, and disconnect the battery from the bike (so no slight drain from the bike alters the readings). Charge the battery thru the meter, causing it to go negative in Wh or Ah, until it's full. Now it will read the actual capacity of the battery, with a minus sign. As you ride, it will get lower and lower, till the end of the ride, or until the battery shuts off, which will be somewhere near zero (but may not be exact because of the nature of this stuff). Disconnect the battery from the bike, and recharge thru the meter, which "increases" the readout as it recharges.

Alternately, charge the battery to full, then hook up the meter, reset it, As you ride it will count up how many Ah or Wh you are using, so ride until it shuts off. When it does, that's the max reading it should ever show. Then you disconnect the battery and meter from the bike, and recharge thru the meter.


Both of these methods will accumulate error over time, depending on a number of factors, so you don'[t want to depend on either extreme (full or empty) being accurate. But it works ok between the extremes. The "disconnect from bike" can be a switch, or a plug to disconnect, there's a bunch of ways to wire it up. If the battery has separate charge and discharge ports then you also have to move the meter from the dishcarge port to the charge port and back each time, or wire up a switch to do that. If it has just one port, it's simpler. (this depends on it's BMS type).


Alternately you can use just voltage as a general indicator. That's how the little meters on the side of the battery work, with a number of LED lights. This works reasonably well with a healthy battery.

Some throttles have a voltmeter that gives you more detail, or the wattmeter can be used with it's voltage display.

A wattmeter, if it also has a speed sensor on it, can be used to measure Wh/mile, which keeps track of your usage over a ride. This lets you have an idea of how mcuh capacity you actually use per mile, so you can guesstimate your range based on your pack's capacity.


So there's a number of ways to track the battery usage / capacity...but they are all really telling you what it was *last time it was charged*, or guesstimating based on voltage.
 
Kemosabe70 said:
Seems like the motor would be way too wide for my set up.
If it's too wide, then so are most motors, as that's a standard 135mm OLD (over locknut dimension, basically meaning dropout width).
 
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