$$$ Headlights on with ignition $$$

2019 Honda Fit LX
This is a continuation of topic List of small hatchback cars

Start reading on page 5

Problem:
I leave headlight switch in the AUTO position all the time and keep a bottle cap on the photocell so that I don't have to remember to turn headlights off or on. I like all lights on when driving for safety. Rain, snow, dark, fog, etc.

Headlights and parking lights come on when I press button on key to open the door. Headlights also come on when you open drivers door when car is off. Think that all these lights are draining the battery.

Goal:
HEADLIGHT SWITCH has 4 positions.

0) OFF
1) PARK
2) AUTO
3) HEAD

With switch in AUTO position. Would like headlights and parking lights to only come on when car is running. Key in RUN position. Everything else should work as it does now.

Any one want to help me with this? Got money $$$ and will pay you for your time.

See wiring diagrams and some service information here.
More here.

Have access to https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp and be happy to share more of the service manual.

Got lots of wire. All different colors. Soldering iron, heat shrink, relays, connectors, and anything else needed. Be happy to take voltage readings of different wires with car in different operating modes. I could build a rocket ship and fly to the moon but I need a little help.

Think that all these lights are draining the battery.

Click to expand...

You should confirm, parasitic leakage test for automotive battery.

Some random search

You can perform a current drain test with just your multimeter by connecting it in series with the negative battery cable. There’s a major drawback to this procedure though; the multimeter fuse is only 10-amps and can blow if you exceed that current draw. So you must exercise caution that you don’t operate any electrical accessories while testing with this method. To avoid the fuse issue, most shops use an inductive amp-clamp (more on that later).

The other method of testing for parasitic battery drain is to conduct voltage drop tests on each fuse. The fuse with the highest voltage drop will most likely be the circuit that’s causing the parasitic battery drain.

Click to expand...

Think that all these lights are draining the battery.

Click to expand...

You should confirm, parasitic leakage test for automotive battery.

Some random search
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/parasitic-battery-drain-test/

You can perform a current drain test with just your multimeter by connecting it in series with the negative battery cable. There’s a major drawback to this procedure though; the multimeter fuse is only 10-amps and can blow if you exceed that current draw. So you must exercise caution that you don’t operate any electrical accessories while testing with this method. To avoid the fuse issue, most shops use an inductive amp-clamp (more on that later).

The other method of testing for parasitic battery drain is to conduct voltage drop tests on each fuse. The fuse with the highest voltage drop will most likely be the circuit that’s causing the parasitic battery drain.

Click to expand...

markz said:

Think that all these lights are draining the battery.

Click to expand...

You should confirm, parasitic leakage test for automotive battery.

Some random search
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/parasitic-battery-drain-test/

You can perform a current drain test with just your multimeter by connecting it in series with the negative battery cable. There’s a major drawback to this procedure though; the multimeter fuse is only 10-amps and can blow if you exceed that current draw. So you must exercise caution that you don’t operate any electrical accessories while testing with this method. To avoid the fuse issue, most shops use an inductive amp-clamp (more on that later).

The other method of testing for parasitic battery drain is to conduct voltage drop tests on each fuse. The fuse with the highest voltage drop will most likely be the circuit that’s causing the parasitic battery drain.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

I use to do this with a regular 12v test light in my car stereo installation days. I think I remembered putting it in series on the positive side of the battery. If the test light glows pull the fuses one by one until it goes out and that’s the circuit that’s draining the battery. I hate the multi position headlight switches on cars. At least twice a summer I drive home, at night following a car with only the headlights on, no rears or parking/side lights on. I’ve noticed the dash lights on so I can only think the driver didn’t turn the switch enough. Very bad for a 20 mile drive with many stoplights.

To solve the problem try removing the steering shaft cover bottom. The plastic part above your knees and try to find the wires that go to the light switch stalk, look for a plug you can stick the test light into the wires at the back of this plug. Here is where you can make a decision to eliminate some light functions, combine them, add another switch/relay, maybe bypass the sensor, maybe replace the stalk with one from a base model car that is more simple etc.. if you unhook the battery you can use an ohm setting that beeps on your test meter to see if you are getting continuity in a switch position that is off but is actually letting some power through. This is only a general description of what I would do so...

markz said:

Think that all these lights are draining the battery.

Click to expand...

You should confirm, parasitic leakage test for automotive battery.

Some random search

You can perform a current drain test with just your multimeter by connecting it in series with the negative battery cable. There’s a major drawback to this procedure though; the multimeter fuse is only 10-amps and can blow if you exceed that current draw. So you must exercise caution that you don’t operate any electrical accessories while testing with this method. To avoid the fuse issue, most shops use an inductive amp-clamp (more on that later).

The other method of testing for parasitic battery drain is to conduct voltage drop tests on each fuse. The fuse with the highest voltage drop will most likely be the circuit that’s causing the parasitic battery drain.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Over here:
2015-19 ELECTRICAL Electrical System - Testing & Troubleshooting - Fit
Find detailed instructions on PARASITIC DRAW CHECK

AC/DC low current clamp meter is on my wish list of tools that I want.

What is a clamp meter?


Here is how I have done this in the past on other cars.
Copy and paste from PDF file.
1. Parasitic draw check 1:
- 1. Make sure the 12 volt battery is fully charged, and that all the vehicle's electrical accessories are turned off.
- 2. To make the security alarm system recognize that the door is closed, open the hood, and disconnect the hood switch 2P connector. [No hood switch on my car]

2. Parasitic draw check 2:
NOTE: If LH AC/DC low current clamp meter (FLULH41A) is not available, do the follow procedure.
- 1. Check the following items before measuring:
Set the multimeter dial to the DCA (direct current amps) range.
Plug the red test probe into the red A (Amps) jack, and plug the black test probe into the COM jack.
To avoid blowing an input fuse, start by setting the range above 10 A.
- 2. Loosen the nut (A) on the 12 volt battery negative terminal.
NOTE: Follow the instructions exactly to avoid disconnecting the 12 volt battery ground cable terminal from the 12 volt battery negative terminal.
- 3. Connect the red (+) test lead (A) to the negative terminal (B) of the 12 volt battery ground cable.
- 4. Carefully slide the negative terminal of the 12 volt battery ground cable upwards from the 12 volt battery negative terminal post to maintain contact and avoid
disconnection. Then connect the black (-) test lead (C) to the 12 volt battery negative terminal post.
NOTE: If disconnection occurs, this could give you erroneous readings.
- 5. Disconnect the negative terminal (A) of the 12 volt battery ground cable from the 12 volt battery negative terminal.
- 6. Measure the parasitic draw.

Threshold of the parasitic draw 20.0 mA

Simple instructions in Marty words. Disconnect negative battery terminal. Connect amp meter as shown in the instruction book in my bag of spaghetti wire, alligator clips, and multi meters.

Skaiwerd said:

use an ohm setting that beeps on your test meter to see if you are getting continuity in a switch position

Click to expand...

Over here:
2015-19 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT Exterior Lighting - Service Information - Fit
Find everything you always wanted to know about Exterior Lighting
1. Combination Light Switch - Test

Print screen for those who like to look at pictures.

Happened again. Car no start at Walmart.

Sent email to friend who works as a mechanic at a Honda dealer. I copy. [Changed a few words for privacy reasons.]
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Honda Mechanic Guy,
Yesterday 3/2/21 Wife and I went for fun ride.
Home - Buffalo, NY 14223
Metal Fabrication Place, North Tonawanda, NY 14120
9 miles
Marty's Play House, Niagara Falls, NY 14304
5 miles
T.J. Maxx & HomeGoods, 3050 Sheridan Dr, Amherst, NY 14226
11 miles
Dash's Market, 499 W Klein Rd, Williamsville, NY 14221
6 miles
Restaurant Depot, 500 Duke Rd, Buffalo, NY 14225
11 miles
Walmart Supercenter, 2500 Walden Ave, Cheektowaga, NY 14225
1 mile
After shopping at Walmart. Car no start. Get a jump. Starts right up.
Home, Buffalo, NY 14223
9 miles
Unload grocery's. Car no start. Charge battery all night with 10A charger.

Got 40 pounds of chicken wings. Would you like some?

Today 3/3/21
Drive to Marty's Play House, Niagara Falls, NY 14304
12 miles

Let car sit for 1 hour.

Off 12.8V
Running with everything off 12.3V
Running with parking lights on 12.3V
Running with parking lights on and heater on 1 speed 12.3V
Running with parking lights on and heater on 2 speed 12.2V
Running with parking lights on and heater on 3 speed 14.3V
Running with parking lights on and heater on 4 speed 14.3V
Running with parking lights, headlights on and heater on 4 speed 14.3V
Off 12.6V

Voltage goes up about .2V when I press on the gas a little. 2000 RPMs

Problem is not loose or corroded battery terminals. I cleaned them.

This is fourth time car would not start.

11/11/20 First time was after I did not drive car for a few days. Did open the door a few times during the few days when I did not go anywhere. I leave the headlight switch in the auto position. Got a plastic bottle cap on the photocell so lights are always on when driving. Remembering to turn lights off and on is more then my brain can handle.

Forgot date. Second time car did not start. Cold morning. The night before headlights came on as usual after I exited car. For no good reason I opened the drivers door a second time, causing the headlight delay timer to come on a second time.

2/7/21 Third time car did not start. After driving to Walmart and Tops.

What do you think the problem might be? Would you like to diagnose?

Love,
MARTY
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
His reply:
Read voltages while driving without crashing
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My reply:
Think I got a cigarette lighter plug with 2 wires coming out of it. Will connect to volt meter and go for a ride.

Get ready for a exciting YouTube video called "Marty goes for a ride!"

Love,
MARTY
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Might be a good idea to get a Engine Starter so I can give myself a jump when car don't start.

What type of Jump Box do you all like? Lead Acid or Li-ion?

Got a Harbor Freight jump box that was given to me as a gift. Did some exploratory surgery. Lead acid battery 6-FM-12 is who knows how old? Guess you get what you pay for with Jump Starters. Remove and test battery 7V. Not going to try to bring it back from the dead. Local battery place wants 52.99 for a new one. Has terminals with holes for nut and bolt. To the scrap pile it goes.

Going to forget the whole jump starter idea. New idea is small Honda generator and battery charger. Got to play small engine mechanic and get the generator going. Will start with new gas.

Batteries have dates on them, make sure they are close to date of purchase, not sure what the rule of thumb is but I wouldnt want anything more then 4 months old and go to a place that sells lots of batteries.

Connect multi meter to cigarette lighter plug. Go for a ride.

Headlights off. Heater off. 2 phones and GPS charging. Also got a WiFi gadget that plugs into OBD port.

12.4V Driving with foot on gas pedal.
14.4V Coasting with foot off the gas pedal.