29er ?

Looking to build a new bike tthis spring, and ive always been more comfortable on a 29er. But don't see any hub motors for 29 inch bikes.

Can I just have the motor put on a diffrent wheel? Would it even work?

PlanetDad said:

But don't see any hub motors for 29 inch bikes.

Click to expand...

Perhaps the search engine you use doesn't work right.

There are a number of direct links in the search this links to, using your exact phrase above:
https://www.google.com/search?q=hub+motors+for+29+inch+bikes
If for some reason they don't come up for you, I'll copy them from the search results I see here into a new reply.

Can I just have the motor put on a diffrent wheel? Would it even work?

Click to expand...

Sure. Just remember that the larger the wheel diameter, the faster the wheel will turn for the same conditions otherwise, and the less torque it will have.

So if you start with a motor that's meant to go 20MPH in a 20" wheel, it'll try to go 29MPH in a 29" wheel...but it'll only have 69% of the torque it would've had in the smaller wheel.


If you're interested in the differences in the performance, etc., you can go to the http://ebikes.ca/simulator page and play with various motors, cotnrollers, and batteries, to see what combination of items at what wheel sizes do different things. Might take a little while of playing with it after reading the directions, to learn how it works, but it is very useful when figuring out a system to use on a new bike.



However: Before you go much further, I highly recommend going to this thread
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302
and copying the list of questions from that first post, and then paste them and your answers here in this thread. That will let us be able to help you pick the right kit or parts to make a bike that does what you want it to do.

Everything will heat up faster as well with a larger diameter wheel.
Slower take off's as well, it will take some time to get up to speed compared to a smaller diameter wheel.

Take a look at this....
https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?bopen=true&motor=M2706&motor_b=M2706&wheel_b=29i&hp=0&hp_b=0&grade=8&grade_b=8&mass=110&mass_b=110

WOW!

Great info guys thank you!!

I'll look into them. My last bike was... This

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019SJAZ4Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

.
Fantastic bike. At the time my commute home was only 12 miles but 1200 foot elevation climb. It did really well. But the limit to 30mph, dose not work for me. Still looking for good tourque, but speed in short 10-15 mile range. And I'm 6'1 plan to modify for kiddo. Trailer is ok, but feel it best to do a rear saddle thing.

I just built an IronHorse Warrior 3.2 29er and used a 700C Ebikeling kit. I was unsure, but my 29" MTB tire, and tube fit nicely on the rim, and I have been riding it around testing it out.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=99241 Here is the link to my thread.

PlanetDad said:

But the limit to 30mph, dose not work for me. Still looking for good tourque, but speed in short 10-15 mile range. And I'm 6'1 plan to modify for kiddo. Trailer is ok, but feel it best to do a rear saddle thing.

Click to expand...

Stuff on the rear of the bike that wiggles and moves is generally problematic, and is worse and worse the faster you go, and the higher off the ground you are. Whether it wiggles because of it's own internal motion (like a kid, dog, etc) or because of lack of stiffness of rack / mounting / etc., it'll still wiggle.

Another thing to consider is what will happen to whatever / whoever is on the back when you crash at those speeds, even belted in hands can stick out past the seat and get squished, scraped, etc. (and if the belts go around the sides of the seat, and you slide out, the sliding can cut thru the belts and then whoever is back there can go sliding separately from the seat and bike).

Just some stuff to think about.

You are a big guy, so the last thing you need in a 26" bike is one sized for teen agers, which is all the low priced stuff such as Walmart carries, and much of other sources too.

Two options for bigger frame, one is hunting down a larger frame mtb on the used market, if you want suspension this time. Or new if you won the lotto.

The other bike off the rack that is a true adult frame are the cruisers. A cheap steel 7 speed cruiser is a fine choice for higher speeds. Its longer than an mtb so it tolerates 35 mph fine, and generally fits a 6 foot man pretty good. Same for the better aluminum cruisers, like the electras.

Sticking with 26 inch wheels just makes it so much easier, to experiment with various hub motors.

I'm only 5'10", and the 29" MTB frame fits me well, plus I have the seat raised to get my knees mostly unbent when riding (which is optimal for comfort, and power. The lower cross bar on my bike allows me to stand easily with both feet flat on the ground (not seated). Big guys on 26" bikes look like monkeys at the circus IMO.

Hey guys, thanks for your help so far, and hope someone is still following. I'm near to clicking the check out button and would like some feedback from you on my list. Still missing a donor bike, but that should be relatively easy. Few more questions though..

Rear suspension... Bad for motors?

Steel or Aluminum for the donor?

Just to clarify 700cc will work on a 29er?

This is my cart so far... contemplated ordering every peace separate but not sure I have the time... or if it would be worth the effort at this point, Can always upgrade peace by peace from here... right?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MY8VGR5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A18NQE175QQAZM&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H7GNMXP/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A323YRGVBR4QGU&psc=1

PlanetDad said:

Rear suspension... Bad for motors?

Click to expand...

No. But hub motors are bad for suspension characteristics. And hub motor axles can mangle forks and rear dropouts alike, if you're not careful.

Steel or Aluminum for the donor?

Click to expand...

Generally? Doesn't matter. But if you want to change the rear hub spacing of the frame, or make any modifications that require welding, steel is better.

Just to clarify 700cc will work on a 29er?

Click to expand...

29" is 700c with enough room for a fat tire. Same wheel size.

29" wheels are a poor choice for hub motors, because the large diameter puts the motor at maximum disadvantage. If you want a 29er bike, consider using a mid drive that can be geared to accommodate the larger wheel size without penalty.

Chalo said:

And hub motor axles can mangle forks and rear dropouts alike, if you're not careful.

Click to expand...

And hm axles can break, under various conditions....

I don't think the battery will be what they claim. Too long of description for that battery. too much hype. What cells are they using? Price is ok.

Just what I feel.

Dan

Hi Planetdad. Rear suspension is fine for a hub motor, but it can make it harder to mount a battery if they put the shock/springs inside the triangle.

I put a small Bafang SWXH (250W) in a 29" wheel. All of the above is probably true, if you're looking for high performance, but I thought it made for a really nice pedelec style bike. The bigger wheels roll nice and ride better. I would have used an ebikeling 500W geared hub, as it would have been a bigger motor and less money, but he didn't have any in stock. I've got that motor in two 26" wheels and also a fat bike wheel which is like 29". It's fine if you just want reliable assist and not crazy acceleration,

You're looking at a direct drive motor in your shopping cart. I've never had one because of their reputation for cogging when coasting and higher weight. If you're looking to mostly run under power, it's worth the tradeoff,

Well switched up the battery.. not going to wait a month for delivery. Like the look of this one better anyway (Kettle style)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWZGMVS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AF0FBM1E362GS&psc=1

Donor bike, plan on doing a pant job before assembly.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Genesis-29-Mens-Incline-Bicycle-Black-Yellow/589016126

Will post pics when complete... Happy yet nervous!!

Thanks guys

A generic no-name 10Ah battery isn't enough to feed a 1500W motor. You'll beat the cells to death in a hurry. However, the prefabricated garbage bike is the most profound mistake. Bikes like that are only designed to do a single job (sell for a profit to a hapless sucker), so it's all used up now and you haven't even received it.

It looks like you asked questions but paid no heed whatsoever to the answers you got.

Any kind of bike that's sold only by businesses that won't fix a bike is trash. Sorry/not sorry; it's true. If it were worth fixing, someone with a service department would sell it (but they don't). If it were intended to be ridden seriously, it would come in a range of sizes (but it doesn't). What you bought is designed to be placed under a Christmas tree, neglected in the garage for a few years, rusted out in the rain for a few years, then recycled.

:lol:

My mistake it was the Hailong battery. I wanted the maximum amp hours so its 48v 17.5 Samsung 3500mah.

The donor bike is just that.. a donor. Most parts I will be replacing when it arrives, rear tire and derailer of coarse, but also the breaks. Plan on making modifications to the frame. Aluminum welding is in my bag of tricks mount for the controller and battery at least, with some shock absorption in them. But will need to get all the parts together first to know where.

I appreciate everyone's help. I did not heed the advice on not getting a 29er, I set out on this project in the mind set of comfort and overall functionality, and room for improvement.

If this is a mistake guess it will suck :lol:

That's a better battery than the kettle style for sure. And the Wally World bike isn't as awful once you replace the most problematic parts, but it's still a full scale mockup of a bicycle. Keep eyes open for issues.

Aluminum loses up to 80% of its strength when you weld it without post-weld heat treatment. One good thing about BSOs is that they usually use extra material instead of best practices, so any frame modifications you make will probably affect the bike less than if you made them to a better bike.

Best of luck with it. Please check back in with your results (good, bad, or mixed), because that's the kind of thing that helps everybody combing through here for information. And thanks for participating in our little sandbox here.

I apologize if this question should be in a different thread.

The connector on the controller for external light control, What are the Volts/Watts typically? Im looking into mounting a 6 inch light bar for my head light. Mostly because I don't want more to try and mount to the handle bars, also for ascetics. Do you guys see any issues with something like this? Even if I came up with its own power source.

https://www.amazon.com/SWATOW-4x4-Ultra-Slim-Driving-Waterproof/dp/B07F2XTY1S/ref=sr_1_39?keywords=5+inch+led+light+bar&qid=1554836390&s=automotive&sr=1-39

What do you guys think of these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G55JCDZ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1VVP7130BAB69&psc=1

PlanetDad said:

The connector on the controller for external light control, What are the Volts/Watts typically? Im looking into mounting a 6 inch light bar for my head light. Mostly because I don't want more to try and mount to the handle bars, also for ascetics. Do you guys see any issues with something like this? Even if I came up with its own power source.

https://www.amazon.com/SWATOW-4x4-Ultra-Slim-Driving-Waterproof/dp/B07F2XTY1S

Click to expand...

The light wire will be 6 or 12 volts and at most a couple of amps. Not enough to run a monstrosity like that. Understand that 72W of cheap LED is something like ten times the light output of a 55W incandescent auto headlamp, but with none of the beam shape control that the car headlight has. It's a super bad idea. You can easily be seen by other road users with 1/2 a watt of LED. You can see where you're going at city traffic speeds with less than 5W of LED-- 10W if it's inefficient or has an ineffective beam shape.

Leave the obnoxious off-road lighting to noisy polluting jackasses who are trying to find the entrance to hell in the dark. But if you must, you'll have to use a switched wire to activate a relay that turns on the high power load in turn.

I use these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12W-DC-12-80V-Motorcycle-LED-Headlight-Waterproof-External-Conversion-Lamps/303041361726

They're not perfect for my application, but they're more than adequately bright. I point them down at the road surface to avoid blinding oncoming traffic. I haven't measured their current load, but I don't believe they're as powerful as the title suggests. They never feel warm when I have to adjust the beam angle, for instance.

Thanks Chalo,

The lights you use look like they would work fine. My commute after work is late and in a rural area, no street lights. So looking for visability for my self, and others seeing me on a 45mph highway.

Also like this one for the rear,


https://www.deals2mall.com/meilan-x5-bicycle-rear-tail-light-wireless-remote-control-turn-signals-laser.html?___store=en&gclid=CjwKCAjwhbHlBRAMEiwAoDA340zK6AWDrFYckpr00nw5A5V_-RooBYaFFnl2OhJ1DS1J0Wm4yuHbvRoCvvkQAvD_BwE

Progress so far, battery will be here tomorrow then we see if the frame can handle this motor :? :?

---

Not letting me upload pic, will try from PC soon

Sorry guys, some how have never learn how to use these forums properly.

Went for a couple block ride tonight, Everything was late showing up battery just this morning so had to give a good first charge before firing it up. Went well, I like the pep and ability to handle the small hill on my road. Need to make allot of adjustments to the bike / placement of everything / and wire management. But I feel this will be a good bike.

What do you guys think?

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNK4ANvZKy0O3FvklgCK_Eq-gQugkDFi8S91oX9

Salvaged From 4k series Trek 26 MT bike

Handle bar and riser
Peddles
Derail-er

Total Cost $943.98

amberwolf said:

However: Before you go much further, I highly recommend going to this thread
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302
and copying the list of questions from that first post, and then paste them and your answers here in this thread. That will let us be able to help you pick the right kit or parts to make a bike that does what you want it to do.

Click to expand...

This. I wish I had knew about endless sphere before I got into ebikes. The fact that the OP knows about ES will help them greatly in their decision. Good luck OP.