Kelly KLS-S Controller Setup, will this work?

I haven't got the wheel spinning yet.. The green and the red lights both are lit in the Kelly. The angle is set at 170. Please see the screenshots. Also when the controller is starten up, I can hear the controller check the halls one, by one. The speed on the speedometer goes from 0 to 50 about 10 times, then it stops..

I read when the red light stays lit together with the green, it could be something with the ignition wire?

eee291 said:

Also, have you tried turning the wheel while looking at the Hall ABC fields? All of them should be alternating between 0 and 1.
It is probably showing hall error because all 3 hall signals are on 0 which should only happen on a motor with 60 degree hall spacing.
Have you tried the identify procedure yet?

Click to expand...

??? That the Kelly does automatically, I thought?
Jeezzzz what now? What kind of
Hall ABC fields are you talkomg about? Nice controller.... Very userfriendly, lolll

eee291 said:

That's why you should crimp the new pins that you got with your Controller on them.
Also, have you tried turning the wheel while looking at the Hall ABC fields? All of them should be alternating between 0 and 1.
It is probably showing hall error because all 3 hall signals are on 0 which should only happen on a motor with 60 degree hall spacing.
Have you tried the identify procedure yet?

Click to expand...

I have done the identify procedure a hundred times.. After identification both the green and the red lights on the Kelly are lit..
During the identification I can see the wheel moving very slow distances to the front... It doesn't try to reverse(I don.t need reverse).

But no change, it stay on 170, whatever I try. Manually put it back to 85.. Then again identification, back to 170, etc..

I Included a screen VIDEO with my settings..

Thank you for your advise and time.. If only this company called Kelly would spend some time..
PS: The key of the keyswitch of the throttle doesn't listen, the display is always ON. So no keyswitch working keyswitch right now, could this be the cause?

LINK KELLY-SETTINGS: [youtube]https://youtu.be/8WF49v8FRpg[/youtube]

Well you need to be able to cycle the controller properly using only pin 7, I saw in the video that you spliced another wire into ground, what is that wire for?

Turn the wheel by hand and look at the Halls and see if they are registering by switching between 0 and 1.
I mean this field.

If they stay on 0 it could mean that you didn't connect them properly (I suggest using pins and plug that came with the Controller) or that you shorted them out, in which case you will have to replace the sensors (kinda unlikely since you did tell me that one of the halls was giving you a voltage when you measured it)

Hi..

I'm back, thanks for your reply!
New day, new chances: I was getting pretty desparate last night, sorry for that

Some new results... :
When I measure the thin hallwires, closest to the wheel, with nothing else in between that can influence the result(no connector, etc),
I measure:
Red: 4.9v
Green: 5.7v
Yellow: 0.0v
Blue: 5.7v
Could that mean yellow might not connect somewhere?

The wheelspin test did not give any result, unfortunally. In the android app when I spin the wheel very very gently, no changes. All parameter stay on 0..

My hope is still there, we do get some results by manually measuring current over there!
My wife will also be very happy if we get this sorted, she thinks I am seing other women in my shed during those long nights of testing hahaha A man's hobby..

PS: The black wire from B-, I already removed it.. I thought I had to make a wire from B+ to pink and also a wire from B- to Grnd(in the same connector as the pink).
Already removed the black.

Ok.. When I do a new identification, and measure the hallwires again, on the exact same spot, very close to the motor, I now measure 5.7v on the yellow wire and 0.0v on the green wire.

So all of the hallwires get sufficient electricity, I think.
Not on all of them together at the same time, every time 1 different hallwire has 0.0v on it.

So what did I prove? I don't know haha

Well you proved that the sensors actually work.

The most important thing right now is for the Controller to see the sensors changing.
I also don't understand why your sensors are putting out a higher voltage then what is being fed in by the red wire (4.9V)
The sensors should be about half a volt lower (~4.5V)
Did you use the pins that came with the Controller?

I hope your B- miswiring didn't cause any damage
If it did you might have to send it back in.

eee291 said:

Well you proved that the sensors actually work.

The most important thing right now is for the Controller to see the sensors changing.
I also don't understand why your sensors are putting out a higher voltage then what is being fed in by the red wire (4.9V)
The sensors should be about half a volt lower (~4.5V)
Did you use the pins that came with the Controller?

I hope your B- miswiring didn't cause any damage
If it did you might have to send it back in.

Click to expand...

The B- wire just didn't make any difference, with or without that wire. I didn't cause any damage till now, no mis wiring till now??
Sending it back.. No way. I rather destroy it in a shredder. kut kelly. Huge mistake.

EDIT: I just read somewhere I have to use the blue wire to make the ignition work???

The blue wire is the ECO switch, applying 66+V on that wire will most certainly fry something.

If you can't deal with it I could take a look at it to make 100% sure if it is broken or not, if it is broken I can send it to Kelly.
I never had any issues with Kelly's customer support.

eee291 said:

The blue wire is the ECO switch, applying 66+V on that wire will most certainly fry something.

If you can't deal with it I could take a look at it to make 100% sure if it is broken or not, if it is broken I can send it to Kelly.
I never had any issues with Kelly's customer support.

Click to expand...

Yes, it is time to stop trying. My other controller was installed in 10 minutes. This Kelly-CRAP controller, I have spend 3 nights on it and didn't even see the wheel spin once... Will leave some nice feedback about this company in places it will cost them customers for sure...

Thanks to @eee291 for his help, although no solution.

Update:

After reading a lot about Kelly controllers, and hall sensor errors Kelly gives,
I decided to change the thin red hall sensor power wire from the motor side from pin 5 (5v source) to pin 11 (12v source) on the kelly..

Kelly started up, without any errors, I opened Identification Angle function, I see the wheel moving little distances for about 30 seconds, and next the red light is blinking fast.. My hart is pounding, I just finished the identification proces, I realized. Now switch off and switch on again, and the I should get the green light.. Yes yes yes, I see now only the green light!!
Now trying the throttle... Nope, not yet. Fast I switch off everything, and decouple the battery...

First enjoy this little victory and write this post.. Think about what to do next..
But I am getting closer...

Update:

I GOT THE WHEEL SPINNING, THROTTLE IS WORKING!!

Giving up, I don't do that easily. Sending a product like this, back to China, to a company that clearly thinks I am a fool.. Then I rather destroy it and take my loss..

So now I've got the Kelly working with my back wheel, and the other new controller is working with my front wheel.

So now I have to join those 2 controllers, to work with 1 throttle, that is next task.

But that is going to be easy, have been reading for months about how to do it. It should be very very easy.

Throttle is fed by pin20 and pin4. The signal cable pin 3, I have to split and bring to the green throttle signal from controller 2. The signal get already fed by the Kelly, so it should only take 1wire to controll both controllers with 1 throttle.

But first I am going to enjoy victory, tomorrow I will join them,

Happy to hear that you got it working :thumb:

Wow. Just woww wow wowww.. Spend all night putting it back together again for a little spin with 'just' the Kelly controller, and 'just' one-wheel drive.
Wowowww.. Now I remember why I started this upgrade.
The Kelly alone is faster than the 2 wheel drive with 2 controllers before the upgrade.
Now I understand why people like this controller.
Very very Powerful. And it accelarates very very smooth..
This is promissing. This power x2, with also the other engine+ controller...
If I could open the throttle completely, it would have done a wheely, whether I wanted that or not. I didn't try top speed, I stopped at about 90 I think, did not have enough time to look.

I did notice something.
1 time during acceleration, the power went away for about 1 second, and then the power came back instant. Some kimd of security kicked in I think. I tried to force another situation like, but I couldn't, the cutback was a 1-time-thing, couldn't reproduce it.

Another thing: I barely had time to look at the speedometer, but the speed it indicated, not ok.
It constantly says I am driving 9.from 1km/h till 9 km/h, everything ok. Then it goes to 55. Strange crazy numbers. The voltage and other stuff are displayed correctly.
I connected my throttle(It has display and keylock) to pin8(dark grey) at the controller for speed info.
I also tried to connect it directly to the thick hallwires, but same result.

Anybody knows how to get more accurate speed?

Greetings Bas

I fixed the problem I had before with the ignition/keylock.

Today I connected the other controller.
That was very easy, just sharing the throttle signal pin15 with the other new controller. 

It took me more time to bring the 2 controllers in the same 'current circle, so that using the ignition key and alarm would work on both controllers.. 


I was a bit lucky/starting to learn, and both alarm and key ignition were working with both controllers within 5minutes, so now time to split the throttle signal cable from the Kelly, and bring it that green wire to the other controller. Done. 

Ignition on, alarm is still of, now a little throttle to see what happens.. Wowwowoww, they both spin! Whaha very very proud. 


I put it back together agsin, and go for a spin. 

Very very nice driving. I had tomtom on my android to see speed. In about 10 seconds I reached 100km/h


Very smooth, from begin till end, as long as I don't open the throttle completely, then it began to stutter. A setting, pretty sure about it.. 

I drove about 1 hour, asking a lot from the machine, putting it under some stress with also very hot outside. About 30C outside. 

After an hour of putting it under stress, I decided to drive home, very very satisfied with the result. 


But almost home some noise from below, engine looses power, something wrong...

The frontwheel with the other controller, still wanted to drive, but the wheel controlled by the Kelly, very heavy turning around(the wheel) The other controller wanted to bring me home, but kelly was resisting on moving further. I could have just let the controller drag me home, but it would have killed both mother and controllers probably, so I walked home. 


At home I put it with Bluetooth and the android app to have a look.. No errors at all in the app. Everything ok, and the green light still on, on the kelly. 

But I realised, something is wrong. So I put it to do identification.. Now it would not pass anymore, and EXACT SAME ERROR AS HOW IT STARTED.. Identification Error+Hall Sensor error.. But now with the 12v wire, in stead of the 5v..Probably it got overheated.. 


So I thought about it, let's try the trick again. 

I added the red 5v hallwire from the other controller to the Kelly. They were already in the same electrical circle allready, so let try. 

It started up without errors! That was hope full.. But it didn't come through the identification.. 

Also, in the android app, when I spin the wheel, I did not see the halls moving.. 


Maybe I will try a different 12v outside source to try to feed the halls.. But certainly something is wrong! 


I really really liked how the Kelly rode. 

So plan has changed :lol: :lol:

I want to have 2 Kelly's on my bike. I am over 40 years old, and feel like a kid again :lol:

Want to offer this one for repair, they fix this 1, I buy a new one, they send me 2 back.

But first we need to find out what went wrong. Something is blowing the fuses of the 5v and 12v power supply, it seems. Now I measured 9.7v on the 12v wire. After what happened this evening, that it stopped. 



OR DO YOU MAYBE HAVE FIRMWARE TO RESET THE CONTROLLER? 

You never know, it might help..  


I added a little video, partially screen recorded, partially filmed, so you can see the behaviour of the Kelly, the Wheel and the throttle. 
[youtube]https://youtu.be/9oZyr3NUc_s[/youtube]

Greeting Bas Schohaus 

Plans changed again.. First I am going to try something else..
Since I do code most of my working time also, let's try things with a different approach. Decompile the android app, and programm it to give me a hard reset. On my way through the code I can see ehat I can use. I have a handy little framework, with this framework and the app(Compile them together and resign), I can enter the controller with root acces. Let's play around a bit
Bypass the IdentificationAngleProcess and make a switch, make my KLS pass the process.
Will get my damned Kelly to work

I got it to pass Identification Angel process..
But not the wished result because of hardware failure.
If today I want to drive, the only solution left will be to open her op, and check for damaged feds. I can measure will voltmeter to find if there are any broken ones, and then check my old controller for non-broken feds, and replace them.
Allthough I am no specialist, I can solder a bit, this should be not very difficult.
It's a little boundery though, opening up the Kelly.

It wouldn't be the first time, I make things irreversably worse by intervening, but also.. Many victory made me the man I am right now
Any factory garantie will be gone.
3 options: 1)Being patient and sent it for repair... 2)Or being impatient, open her up, fix it and drive tonight? 3)Or being impatient, open her up, make a nasty mess of her, and being left with her as a brick?

Hmm..My wife would advice option 1. Victory comes with risks, that would validate option 2 as far as I'm concerned, but option 3 does exist, time has proven..

I strongly suggest that you don't open it. Replacing the MOSFETs is very difficult because they are soldered to a piece of Aluminium that has 3 layers of copper on it and a little too much heat will cause the insulation to melt, which will short out the different copper layers.

Opened her up for research, and found some suspicous parts. I included a foto, when you zoom in, you see a broken part, a copper spin. The front looks broken. Also the little brown resistor in front of that, seems visually not 100%, and gives weird readings with ohm meter.

Well, I didn't succeed..
So I ordered 2 new Kelly's, even stronger then this one. 2 wheels, 2x KLS6035S.
The rest of the bike is becoming crazingly nice.. I took it for a spin with 1 engine.. People stopping everywhere in the street to look what is passing by.. Some people think they are getting shot at, lol...
Very, very illegal in my country, the way it is becoming..
Want to have a look?
[youtube]https://youtu.be/yIqf5jnjVBQ[/youtube]
[youtube]https://youtu.be/nafboW0hZY4[/youtube]
[youtube]https://youtu.be/lCHDSegX1LE[/youtube]

Are all of those lasers coming fro the scooter? lol

Yes, all the lasersbeams you see, come from scooter, most of the lasers go on when I power on the scooter, either by key or by remote alarm control..

Because I normally have 2 controllers, I devide it over the 2 controllers.. Also an external powerbank which I charge separate at my house, takes some of the led lighting.. 4 Months ago I had never soldered, didn't know anything about current, and electric engines.. Now I solder many led lightings to 1 powerboard, so all go on by only one usb.. Also now I found out how to power battery charged devices, by cable! Many of the lasers you see(except for the big ones), were originaly charged by battery.. I bought cheap pulldown converters.. From 60v to 12v 10A. And from 12v to 5v. Also I baught a few you can choose and set the current yourselve, by measuring with a voltmeter.. Some of the lasers need exactly 3.4v..

So allmost all the lighting on the ignition cable.. Because I can't figure out how to install a light switch.. I tried a few times and that burned the switches, so I stopped trying.. It has no priority for me right now, I will find out later.

Now it is waiting for yhe Kelly's to arrive. I ordered about 4 days ago, so with luck, they will arrive in about a week.
When those are installed properly, I am satified and then I can let to rest this project..

Now I have a good contact at Kelly's, Mr Robert Chen. He seems to know a lot about installation, and he is kind and helpful.
I will make sure after failure, that now I will succeed in installing both Kelly's, and finishing this project. If again the controller(s) not work, I will take my bike, and take a plain to Shenzen, China, to get the thing fixed. Failure is no longer an option, lol
EDIT: Here you can see the lasers being switched on with my ignition key.. Now I stop adding laserbeams, again I added new ones:
[youtube]https://youtu.be/PDJvyXmSPu0[/youtube]
[youtube]https://youtu.be/zuiisZ11_6c[/youtube]

hello I read your project very nice compliments
I'm working on an electric motorcycle with a 4000 watt motor and kelly controller
curiosity have you solved the speed on the speedometer?

Hello your post was a very good help. Which pin is for lcd display. I am working in a shop and could use any info possible thanks!

Hi I am using Kelly KLS14301-8080I.

I was also getting an auto-identification error.
My solution was to replace the number of poles with the factory default one.

The electric motor I use is 30 poles. But when I typed 8 poles the automatic identification was successful.